Felipe is 79, still surfs the Bay here or travels to surf and is 3 years older then myself.Thank you for the kind offer. If you're serious, I may take you up on that next winter. I'm pretty sure each of the three surfers you mentioned are old enough to be my father and I am in my 50s. Obviously, they are not in the category that draws my ire and I respect my elders.
Jeff is 73, has been down in Brazil surfing or he may be back on Kauai by now when I talked to his Son, Ryan. Billy, lives down the street from me and now rides a SUP because of physical limitations and still rips the Bay when he's not shaping boards. Billy is 73 coming up on 74.
I took offense to your comment because you lump all longboarders into one group of bozo's who get your ire worked up. We been doing this sh!t for decades, got the slaps and cracks, learned the rotation, swam for our boards when there were "No Leashes" and even returned boards back to the rider if they lost their board by towing their board back with the tips of our toes.
I'm an old phuck, just how it is. Got no problem, take no offense if I'm called one. Shortboards and skating were a whole new revolution and exploded, and in surfing, the schooling, the cracks n' slaps, the courtesy's all went out the door. It was a free for all. My wave. MY, home break. Phuck you kook. The pleasantry's, the fun were gone. Done. No one took the effort to tell the newbs the rules of the road in surfing so hence, chaos.
And in the end, Your're left with Your ire to deal with. The basic's for learning how to surf was, "your on your own, dude." Cool, but if you don't inform them that paddling up through the line up is a no -no, you need to paddle around, then it's all on you or the more skilled surfers for the ease of information. Pretty easy verbiage but it didn't happen, and more chaos.
You and I could joust back and forth on the subject for days, but I'm not up for it. I just want to slide a wave or two, maybe squirt in mah shorts if it's a bitchen wave and call it a morning. That's all this ole phuck wants to do, and maybe that ole fuzziness of life will tickle my fancy once more.
Love and Aloha from Kauai's north shore ~
Offer stands, if by the grace of Miki Dora.
Last edited: