i simulated slaters wave pool in my pool last week before the torrential rains filled my pool with mud....
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When was the last time you surfed?
- Thread starter Eunice
- Start date
Sunday March 8th. It was high tide and close to shore but there was some chest high swell. I wasn't too excited to surf but an old guy named Tim, who sometimes doesn't paddle out, showed up without a board and said I'm going home to get my board. That made me think I should just go out. I had fun. Looking back now, glad I went.
Last Thursday.
Longboarded with a girlfriend of mine who is learning. Had a blast in some waist-chest high fast lefts. My dad recently gifted me the first board I ever stood up on, which was gifted to him from a family friend 30+ years ago. 8'6'' Freeline single fin. The thing is still in great shape and rides nice.
Later in the afternoon as that big south started filling in, I surfed some well overhead lefts with some random DOH bombs cleaning up. Then I went to work for a couple days, and I've just been riding my bike a lot.
Longboarded with a girlfriend of mine who is learning. Had a blast in some waist-chest high fast lefts. My dad recently gifted me the first board I ever stood up on, which was gifted to him from a family friend 30+ years ago. 8'6'' Freeline single fin. The thing is still in great shape and rides nice.
Later in the afternoon as that big south started filling in, I surfed some well overhead lefts with some random DOH bombs cleaning up. Then I went to work for a couple days, and I've just been riding my bike a lot.
i surfed on Saturday and plan on surfing tomorrow if this new swell shows up.
Longest Ive ever been w/o surfing was last year when I broke my toe. 6 weeks no surf, then my first time back in the water was at the BSR wavepool which he hd booked private all day. needless to say I was super out of shape and didnt get my moneys worth but even in shape - 6 guys surfing that pool all day is literally too much surfing. Must have surfed 150 waves at least.
Longest Ive ever been w/o surfing was last year when I broke my toe. 6 weeks no surf, then my first time back in the water was at the BSR wavepool which he hd booked private all day. needless to say I was super out of shape and didnt get my moneys worth but even in shape - 6 guys surfing that pool all day is literally too much surfing. Must have surfed 150 waves at least.
Yesterday. Finally took the ganoe with a motor attached instead of paddling a mile down river to the secret high tide spot in N FL..... 3 sessions in last 7 days....feeling pretty stocked....but somewhat guilty cause I took the easy way with the motor, also felt like I was poaching waves while others are stuck on land.....2-3ft windswell...nothing great but water is 72 and clear...should be out there later this week too...
I last surfed sometime around the last week of February. Then the weather, tides, winds and work got in the way. Since then I've patched up my boards as well as a couple for friends and family. Now waiting patiently for the OK from Mr Newsom.
For someone who brings so much wisdom and stock and eloquent thoughts, this makes me sad. Injury? Age? Both?
Last surf was 4/1. Dawn patrolled at Torrey pines state beach. I haven’t surfed since due to my knee not the Rona. Tore my ACL (again dammit!) on 2/9 and surfed a few sessions that week hoping I could make it work. Didn’t have much success. Now trying to decide if/when to have surgery. Had an Indo boat trip planned for July 