When was the last time you surfed?

Apr 12, 2020
40
54
18
Billings, Montana
The last time was at Hermosa Beach, a few days before I boarded my ship, the USS Turner Joy DD 951, out of San Pedro, heading to Vietnam. January 20, 1967. So, any stories I might happen to tell, will be before that. Do I miss it? There isn't a body of water, that I see waves, and I think. Can they be ridden? I use to stand and lean out over the life line on the ship looking at the wake, pretending I was on a cliff like the Hook, watching the waves roll in. I'm 73 and it never leaves you.
 

Leaverite

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Dec 19, 2017
7,924
1,092
113
Central Cal
4 hours of absolute goldenness, Big swell.

Came in to get out.

A huge set wave caught me with my left foot wedged into the rocks. POP!!!! Blown ACL. That simple...
 

LifeOnMars

Michael Peterson status
Jan 14, 2020
3,164
2,106
113
I think for me, it was March 19th.
yesterday, been back in the water for a month now and still feeling a bit off. spent the better part of 6 months without surfing, had a a handful of sparsely distributed sessions throughout that time period so I was basically useless upon the return.
 

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,245
10,444
113
33.8N - 118.4W
Right after Christmas. Some of the best surf of the year. Then my back went out, I ended up in ER and have been rehabbing ever since. I'm happy the beaches are closed. If I can't surf why should you?