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You get waves or I get waves. I like me more than you. And I'll probably never see you again. When we're competing for a limited resource (extremely limited here), I'm going lizard brain. Sorry not sorry.
If Gerry was a player in that he was way down the pecking order. The guys that started that are still alive so I won’t mention their names (Hi Travis and Mark) and it was well before da bolt and in Afghanistan and Pakistan.
It’s funny that somebody liked this post of yours.
I think he lives on the east coast but is originally from the west coast iirc. I can see where living in a wave starved place would have an effect on your patience level.
'a local is just a dirtbag who can't get his sh!t together to travel' - Owl Chapman
Theres a few numb nutz like that at every spot thats a fact. Thats the reality. Guys who have devoted their lives and compromised so much. So much of the many facets of life, narrowly waiting for that peak. Goodbye cruel world. I have a start time at 8
Do you REALLY think I dont know that.
I doubt Gerry bothered. Definitely not with weed. It doesnt make sense in HI. Weed was easy to come by. My buddy would fly from Mokuleia to Hilo and fill a TV box full of weed and bring it back. Maybe opium? The scam was Cocaine from Peru creating pockets in the foam and filling them with coke or pastel ( which was the sh!t) and glassing over it. Now it wasnt Gerry that I know of... and not a contest surfer but a couple of big wave heavies in the 80's whose names you might know. But not Gerry.
I did miss your point. I liked his post. I thought it reminded me of some sad characters I know of at Honolua.
Yup. That part of my problem.
