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The Purist’s Mentawais Quiver

M

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,069
4,590
113
Innzid
Thought I’d bring my 6’2 AB channel bottom, 6’3 Ghost, and 6’10 Desert Storm.
Sydney Airport thought let’s go full minimalist and bring none!

Yep, sitting in Padang, Sumatra, with nothing, hoping against hope that something will turn up before the boat leaves tonight.

Sorry for a useless post, but I need to vent some of my frustration.
 
M

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,069
4,590
113
Innzid
Cheers, bud.

All fingers crossed 🤞

1-2ft thumping barrels at the Padang rock groins this morning, just to rub salt in the wound.
 
M

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,069
4,590
113
Innzid
Heading off in 30min. Probably HTs first, then we’ll see.

No sign of boards yet, so went to local surf shop and bought a 6’3 Chilli Faded round pin, and a set of Futures Pyzalien fins. Took 10min for the whole transaction.

They had a sweet second hand Rawson, but it had been creased.

If any of you have shitty reviews, keep them to yourselves, haha.
 
Bman76

Bman76

Nep status
Mar 10, 2011
931
727
93
Enjoy Maz - hope the boards come through, but i reckon that Chilli will be sick.
 
K

kool-aid

Michael Peterson status
Aug 28, 2003
3,027
2,619
113
San Francisco
Maz said:
Heading off in 30min. Probably HTs first, then we’ll see.

No sign of boards yet, so went to local surf shop and bought a 6’3 Chilli Faded round pin, and a set of Futures Pyzalien fins. Took 10min for the whole transaction.

They had a sweet second hand Rawson, but it had been creased.

If any of you have shitty reviews, keep them to yourselves, haha.
Click to expand...
Sick bro. I just got back from 10 days at HTs. It's INSANE. You'll be set with that setup.
 
casa_mugrienta

casa_mugrienta

Duke status
Apr 13, 2008
43,671
18,179
113
Petak Island
kool-aid said:
Maz said:
Heading off in 30min. Probably HTs first, then we’ll see.

No sign of boards yet, so went to local surf shop and bought a 6’3 Chilli Faded round pin, and a set of Futures Pyzalien fins. Took 10min for the whole transaction.

They had a sweet second hand Rawson, but it had been creased.

If any of you have shitty reviews, keep them to yourselves, haha.
Click to expand...
Sick bro. I just got back from 10 days at HTs. It's INSANE. You'll be set with that setup.
Click to expand...
Telll us about your trip.

Pics or didnt happen.
 
jkb

jkb

Tom Curren status
Feb 22, 2005
10,118
9,199
113
Central California
That sucks Maz.

Good thing that Chilli was available. At least you have something and you're not going empty handed.
 
T

tacos

Michael Peterson status
Feb 12, 2006
3,519
559
113
LB —> SF
Yeah let’s hear it kool-aid!

And Maz, board should be fine. I’m 6’1” 175lbs and mostly ride 5’6” to 6’0” short boards at home, I brought a 6’0” and 6’2” round tail to Bali a couple years ago and felt the 6’2” was fine. I guess I wouldn’t have minded a 6’4” to 6’6” to cheat a little more with paddling power but it wasn’t a deal breaker.
 
K

kool-aid

Michael Peterson status
Aug 28, 2003
3,027
2,619
113
San Francisco
I would say HTs is hands down the best wave I've ever surfed but definitely not for the faint of heart. It's manageable but you will definitely spend some time bouncing off the reef. The surgeon's table is no joke and that part of the reef sticks out of the water on low tide. Across the board, at low tide, if you don't make the wave or pull through the back you're going to be walking across the reef. On high tide, you can paddle over the reef but it's a pretty long paddle and if you take off from the office (top part of the reef) you can still easily hit the reef. The reef is pretty damn sharp, esp in the surgeon's table (rock outcropping) but it's not like scar reef from what I understand.

By my standards, I scored. There were three well overhead swells with solid 8 - 12' faces on the sets. The first two swells, however, were pretty south and the wave breaks kind of on the edge of the reef when it's that direction. It can still barrel but it doesn't barrel as much and the rides are shorter. You're still good for a solid drop though, a couple of big turns or a cover-up.

I ended up extending my trip by a few days to catch a proper SW swell which was a totally different ballgame. Watching DOH waves barrel down the entire length of the reef is pretty damn impressive. Anything over a 6 - 8' face seems to double up which makes for a fairly easy take-off but a big wall that grows right in front, heaves, and then unloads and bends right around the entire length of the reef.

If you take off from the top part of the reef you basically have to get barreled or straighten out. Definitely saw some of the most insane waves I've ever seen IRL and keep in mind I regularly surf TOH+ ocean beach. Pulling into heaving barrels over shallow reef passes is a pretty big adjustment for me. I got some great waves but not the epic barrels I was looking for. I did, however, walk away completely unscathed when other guys were getting cut up pretty bad or breaking boards and leashes.

I've been all around Indo but this was my first trip to the Ments. If definitely lives up to its reputation. White sand, crystal clear blue water and near-perfect waves. Stayed at HTs resort which is super legit and I would highly recommend. Anyone who is a regular foot is gonna want to put this wave on their list. Looking forward to heading back and pushing it a little bit deeper.
 
K

kool-aid

Michael Peterson status
Aug 28, 2003
3,027
2,619
113
San Francisco
Oh yeah, cause this is a design forum I spent most of my time riding a 6'1 Radius until I put a hole in the rail on duck dive over the surgeon's table. Then I switch to my 6'2 Ghost. I actually preferred the Radius because of the rocker on that board. I felt like the Ghost was a little bit flat but it gets the job down. Some guys ride standard HP shortboards out there and others are on step-ups in the 6'4 / 6'6 range. But I rode my radius up to DOH faces no problem. You definitely don't need a ton of board. Anything too big would just get in the way IMO.

I went full Pyzel quiver for this trip 5'11 Phantom, 6'1 Radius, 6'2 Ghost. All boards are custom and performing beautifully out here. Opted for my Pyzels over the my Losts because I thought they'd handle the Indian ocean power a little bit better than my Losts.
 
K

kool-aid

Michael Peterson status
Aug 28, 2003
3,027
2,619
113
San Francisco
Really didn't take that many photos / vids and I didn't buy any of my surf shots. Here are a couple crappy phone pics / vids of average waves: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/18WsF2s7M1Mo-mcE5S3K-_Icqv6UitJsG?usp=sharing
 
waxfoot

waxfoot

Michael Peterson status
Apr 21, 2018
2,096
4,049
113
That surgeon's table ain't no joke. Surfed HTs while on my boat trip 2 years ago, and it's a scary section. I was advised to take the paddle back around the 'lagoon' if you get caught out, and that saved my skin.

We only had it at about nearly double OH and a shittier angle, so didn't get to experience it at its best, hoping to go back one day.
 
M

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,069
4,590
113
Innzid
Quick update, guys.

The 6’3 Chilli I bought in Padang saw me through the first 5 days admirably. Great board. Got my board bag on day 6!- great joy!

Now to the waves. Kool Aid nailed it re HTs. Insane wave, and our first stop. Four sessions on day one in 10-12 foot faces, and yes I got barreled and bounced on my arse on the Surgeons Table.

Then onto Bintangs, Lance’s Left, Maccas, Roxy’s, Burgerworld, Bengbengs, PitStops, E Bay, Four Bobs, A Frames, Karangbat left and right, Hideaways.

39 surfs in 11 days. Never below HH, biggest waves 15foot faces. Always powerful. Worst crowd was 15 dudes, but everyone was well behaved, especially the Aussies. No hassles.

HTs, E Bay and Hideaways are world class gems. Roxy’s and Burgerworld so fucken fun.

Edit: not sure how Pyzel fins became Pyzalien, but blame autocorrect :)
Yeeewwwww!
 
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