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I dont think I've EVER seen a reading like that at Harvest...
Has to have the Carolina Flair to keep the spray down
Times have changed. Make sure to have Narcan on hand to surf Doheny tomorrow so someone can revive you after you get stuck with a floating needle filled with Fentanyl.Doheny did this in the mid-2000's. Sometime between 2005-2008, I think.
Horseshoe shaped sandbar formed after a ton of rain dumped all at once. Good sized NW swell hit a week later.
Perfect barrels for about a week and then it disappeared. I was out with 2 other people the first morning it hit. Got 3 in-and-outs on 1 wave. Still one of my most memorable swell events.
I remember some reedy beaches in Newport and trestles in the late 70's. We couldn't figure out where they came from. Some random guys tell us they came from southeast asia.There was a '77 swell where it smoked south of the river mouth. Piles of clumps of reeds and vegetation that got washed down the creek onto the beach. Perfect draining sandbar.
We went to uppers the next day and floated down the creek from about half way down the bike path to the lagoon, which was giant and full of the same clumps. About half way across the lagoon a very large rattle snake slid off of a pile and started swimming towards us. Motor city to the beach side.
Bring lots of peroxide and Qtips, the creek is raging and you wouldn't believe all the $hit that's up there, not to mention all the pesticides and fertilizers.Hate to name spots on a public forum but I’m planning on surfing a place called Rincon tomorrow. It’s sort of a hidden gem that only a few people have surfed.
Invitation only bros. Sorry.
DM me for GPS coordinates.
Was it worth it? That and a couple other rivermouths were on my short list for tomorrow. YOLO.Surfing a certain river mouth in epic chocolate milk tubes one flood year, I got sick. I got a sinus infection that they couldn't kill. Which doesn't sound that bad, but I couldn't even tie my shoes. Felt like my head was going to blow up. Months this went on. I was crying to my Doc and he told me that considering how long I have surfed I should have known better. Told me he was treating five other local surfers for Hep.
We were down to trying one more oral antibiotic. The next step was to drill through my skull, flush my sinuses and apply a topical antibiotic to the insides of my sinuses. The last antibiotic finally worked. My winter was pretty much over however.
The waves were insane. Sit in the tube forever. The light would shut down because the water was opaque. The left was cleaner in terms of water due to the direction of the current, but the rights. So good. I went into the bottom on one wave and my legs went into the fresh muck up to my knees. I had to struggle to get free. Trees, dead cows, dead rattlesnakes, half sunk 50 gallon drums of who-knows-what drifting by. Good times...
Santa Ana River, San Juan Creek, San Mateo Creek... I don't know about the first since it's been mostly contained in my memory but I do remember the sewage treatment plant flooding and overflowing out of the end at rj's. The others still had some life upstream in the 70's.I remember some reedy beaches in Newport and trestles in the late 70's. We couldn't figure out where they came from. Some random guys tell us they came from southeast asia.
We were impressed