September of 2022: What's your favorite board right now?

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,058
17,563
113
San Diego, CA
Not at all…but I think stringered EPS and carbon definitely would be! I think people say carbon boards are stiff due to the carbon. But in my opinion they feel stiff bc they’re all EPS/epoxy based. Polyurethane blanks have more flex and dampening where EPS will resist pressure dents better, BUT they’re more prone to just snap instead of bend. No scientific studies to back my claim, just what my experience tells me. Also remember, there’s only a single layer on top and bottom, no need to double up on fiberglass on the deck. These feel so good going through the water, we‘re already discussing a few more to add to this quiver
Soooo….
what’s happening with all the eps boars you no longer want to ride?? Warehouse sale?
 

kool-aid

Michael Peterson status
Aug 28, 2003
3,033
2,628
113
San Francisco
My favorite board the last 2 weeks is part of my new carbon fiber quiver I just got from South Bay ripper/shaper/laminator Andy Prunauer at Proper Surfboards. This is my 3rd 5’7 Cosmo2 from him. I compare it to any of the RNF iterations, where you can bring it down to the beach and it will almost always be a good choice due to the wide range of wave sizes it can handle. These are all poly blanks wrapped in carbon fiber and epoxy resin. Such a perfect weight and natural feel compared to Dark Arts and Black Dart EPS/carbon boards. View attachment 141082View attachment 141083View attachment 141084View attachment 141085
Super cool boards. I love the long red one. I see that they have stringers but do you know if he orders thinner stringers to compensate for the added stiffness of carbon? Sounds like they're hand laminated. Are they any lighter than a pu/poly?
 

waxurDyl

Gerry Lopez status
Apr 22, 2010
1,251
2,118
113
SoBay
Super cool boards. I love the long red one. I see that they have stringers but do you know if he orders thinner stringers to compensate for the added stiffness of carbon? Sounds like they're hand laminated. Are they any lighter than a pu/poly?
Thanks kool-aid! The smaller ones have 1/8in. stringers and the red 6’8 has a 3/16in. stringer. Only rode the red one once so far, but it was in real fun HH+ swell last week and it went very well. I wanted a sleeper cheater board that will paddle circles around the new crowds and handle winter swells, so Andy left it 3in thick at the stringer and blended that thickness nicely to a regular shaped rail.
He’s a 1 man show, shapes AND laminates his boards. These weren’t vacuum bagged, but he bags his foil boards.
The weight is about the same as a poly/pu, if not slightly lighter. They definitely surf as smooth and buttery as traditional poly boards do482515C5-A432-49E6-A3D2-797D0A59B943.jpeg47412170-CEE7-40A3-9825-7EA6196EB9B3.jpegA2B2FB8F-0A4F-4CE0-9165-62471C05BF9E.jpeg2DD68F1F-9241-4E94-BFEA-800F43CC7DA0.jpeg391F10DF-0BEE-428A-8F51-D72137607A62.jpeg5B885B93-D5D5-4503-B84D-8DB13C915E2B.jpeg
 
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toowalled

Nep status
Jul 3, 2014
845
953
93
All I'm using at the moment.

Going through the biggest surf-slump I've ever had. Zero motivation for it, when I do, I don't enjoy it in the slightest and it worries me how little it worries me :(
View attachment 141089
Should try getting a serious injury that will get you frothing again. adding a yolo for extra stoke is also a good idea to bring back the spark.
 
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rowjimmytour

Tom Curren status
Feb 7, 2009
11,534
5,831
113
54
Not at all…but I think stringered EPS and carbon definitely would be! I think people say carbon boards are stiff due to the carbon. But in my opinion they feel stiff bc they’re all EPS/epoxy based. Polyurethane blanks have more flex and dampening where EPS will resist pressure dents better, BUT they’re more prone to just snap instead of bend. No scientific studies to back my claim, just what my experience tells me. Also remember, there’s only a single layer on top and bottom, no need to double up on fiberglass on the deck. These feel so good going through the water, we‘re already discussing a few more to add to this quiver
I am pretty sure this is why team stretch uses bamboo for stringer "cft" or bagged for non stringer "dft" instead of carbon. I have seen stretch boards with carbon around fin boxes.
As a major stickler for details, the tailpad placement is off. Didn’t notice it until I looked closely at the tail patch lines, now I can‘t unsee it. But damn that board looks good…the shape AND color are(y) - Varial did right on the colors, correct? Looks like a keeper Chase!
I follow same pad placement on twins I use the back of fin "twin cluster" to line up start of my kick give or take 1/2" :shrug:
 
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SD_Dan

OTF status
Jan 23, 2019
271
724
93
I follow same pad placement on twins I use the back of fin "twin cluster" to line up start of my kick give or take 1/2" :shrug:
I was thinking about foot placement on twins recently. I noticed on my Plasmic I usually surf with my back foot over the fins and it feels drivey that way. There have been instances where my foot gets behind them and the board seems to pivot better but lacks drive. Not sure if there is an optimal foot placement (pad kick placement) or if it just depends on what you’re trying to do. Given where my back foot usually lands my pad should be further up…but then again that may just explain why my turns suck.:shrug:
 

rowjimmytour

Tom Curren status
Feb 7, 2009
11,534
5,831
113
54
I was thinking about foot placement on twins recently. I noticed on my Plasmic I usually surf with my back foot over the fins and it feels drivey that way. There have been instances where my foot gets behind them and the board seems to pivot better but lacks drive. Not sure if there is an optimal foot placement (pad kick placement) or if it just depends on what you’re trying to do. Given where my back foot usually lands my pad should be further up…but then again that may just explain why my turns suck.:shrug:
I sacrificed 2x pads now for my Alpha Omega find ultimate pad placement. Found the Astrodick Christian Fletcher wide covers fin cluster good and started kick about 1/2" from back of fins :shaka:
 
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jwd

Nov 24, 2004
97
53
18
I sacrificed 2x pads now for my Alpha Omega find ultimate pad placement. Found the Astrodick Christian Fletcher wide covers fin cluster good and started kick about 1/2" from back of fins :shaka:
In all seriousness, can you post a pic of the pad placement on your AO? I've thought about putting one on my AO since I don't ride it that often and feel like I need to re-learn where to place my backfoot every time I ride it
 
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rowjimmytour

Tom Curren status
Feb 7, 2009
11,534
5,831
113
54
In all seriousness, can you post a pic of the pad placement on your AO? I've thought about putting one on my AO since I don't ride it that often and feel like I need to re-learn where to place my backfoot every time I ride it
I am not sure when I well get a chance may be some time:foreheadslap: but easy answer is your back foot is going to want to be right over fin cluster so with AD CF wide pad gives plenty coverage from rail to rail. I made amark on both sides where back of fin was and took a measurement from tail.then made another mark on stringer to line up my kick. I set down kick about 1/2" back from line and then with rest of pad still in wrap lined up with about 1/2" space between kick and installed. I found if you step back foot behind back of fin its a syicide run and AO spins out specially back side:drowning: The pad really helps with foot placement and gives you nice leverage on backside turns.
 
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waxfoot

Michael Peterson status
Apr 21, 2018
2,102
4,073
113
Wow, sorry to hear that...sure sounds tough. Hope you can get it sorted and back in the water.
dang waxy, that's rough. don't be down on yourself about it. it sounds like something that's well out of your control.
And juts like that - surfing's on the menu again and I'm stocked :D
YOLO'd an eye operation yesterday, and boom, single vision again this morning and I'm loving being outside again.

Hard to describe the loss of depth perception does to you, because it made me feel like my body's position in the world around me wasn't "right" (on top of the shittiness of the doubled vision), but straight away it feels great being outside again. 2 weeks until I can surf again :D
 

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,091
4,639
113
Innzid
View attachment 138267
7’6 Wayne Deane. Big regret never getting a custom from him. Searched long and hard for one of his ”big shortboards/guns” which he was known for. Power of Insta put me onto this one. Circa 2002 and apart from a bit of yellowing it’s a really clean example.
http://instagr.am/p/Bl1baRPl1vC/ Always such a stylish yet powerful surfer.
Object of extreme desire :)
Full dims, please, Mr Toobz?
 
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