My surf sessions the past 10 days consisted of a couple of runs and some weight training... 
I need my medicine....
I need my medicine....
REMINDER: THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. has no obligation to monitor the Forums. However, THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. reserves the right to review any materials submitted to or posted on the Forums, and remove, delete, redact or otherwise modify such materials, in its sole discretion and for any reason whatsoever, at any time and from time to time, without notice or further obligation to you. THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. has no obligation to display or post any materials provided by you. THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. reserves the right to disclose, at any time and from time to time, any information or materials that we deem necessary or appropriate to satisfy any applicable law, regulation, contract obligation, legal or dispute process or government request. Click on the following hyperlinks to further read the applicable Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.
***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter Kento
- Start date
I thought there would be a little more than knee high this am.
Spent the last week in HH-HH+ warm water left point waves with a few erBBers. Couple small days at the end
that were better than anything I could imagine around here at that size, with loooong peelers.
So much fun, so many fun waves. Surfing "cool" 70 degree crap knee high waves here the last couple days makes
me appreciate it even more. Stoked to take a trip for the first time since in a while.
that were better than anything I could imagine around here at that size, with loooong peelers.
So much fun, so many fun waves. Surfing "cool" 70 degree crap knee high waves here the last couple days makes
me appreciate it even more. Stoked to take a trip for the first time since in a while.
I am going to be on Oahu July 17-23. Sun. Mon. Tues 8-10, 6-8, 4-6. Need to find my balls in a hurry.
Dawned the regular. Haven’t surfed all week cause it was pretty small, but a new swell is filling in. The dawn patrol was pretty unremarkable. Swell was crossed up and inconsistent, tide really low, just blah. Lots of sh*t talking in between sets.
Got a couple of sets that closed out but gave me enough open face to bottom turn and smash the close out section. Those felt good on the new Tokoro Pro3.
Saw a new FW Tomo Volcanic. It’s got the basalt fiber hence the name. My friend said it feels good. It looked interesting. I’m sure @ReForest can give a full break down. And how Daniel invented volcanoes too. Haha.
Hope this swell and the next bigger one pans out and you guys get some cause the rest of this message board, wait is it message board or boar, (@Havoc we need a ruling) is totally going to sh*t.
Got a couple of sets that closed out but gave me enough open face to bottom turn and smash the close out section. Those felt good on the new Tokoro Pro3.
Saw a new FW Tomo Volcanic. It’s got the basalt fiber hence the name. My friend said it feels good. It looked interesting. I’m sure @ReForest can give a full break down. And how Daniel invented volcanoes too. Haha.
Hope this swell and the next bigger one pans out and you guys get some cause the rest of this message board, wait is it message board or boar, (@Havoc we need a ruling) is totally going to sh*t.
@oeste858 and I went on our first surf date this morning
5 second windswell at one of my bars and it ended up being pretty fun. We swapped simmons and I rode his frankenstein asym album. What a trip. Cruisey planer up front but some pretty serious business in the back. Toeside is small keel and backside is quad. couple nice semi vertical backside turns, some soft frontside arcs, and one quick roundie where I was able to do that tail drop thing. Wasn't expecting that on a board like this.
Oest rode the mitsimmons and got a lot of waves and I think a couple were the best ones either of us got. He seemed to enjoy it.
Good times, hope he asks me out again sometime
5 second windswell at one of my bars and it ended up being pretty fun. We swapped simmons and I rode his frankenstein asym album. What a trip. Cruisey planer up front but some pretty serious business in the back. Toeside is small keel and backside is quad. couple nice semi vertical backside turns, some soft frontside arcs, and one quick roundie where I was able to do that tail drop thing. Wasn't expecting that on a board like this.
Oest rode the mitsimmons and got a lot of waves and I think a couple were the best ones either of us got. He seemed to enjoy it.
Good times, hope he asks me out again sometime
You know early on in a relationship how you pretend to be into the thing they’re into? Well I surfed a beachbreak at 6:30am this morning! After a few more months, I’ll introduce him to my reefs… at gentlemens hour.
Was fun to swap boars and he nailed the dims on the Mitsven quad minisim, as usual. The square tailed one I sold last year was fun but just too wide at 22” and this felt much better. Does everything you’d want it to: Paddles and catches waves, easy glide, flowy and loose but not slippery. Will definitely order a copy at some point.
It was cool to see SBD surf the mini asym with a more aggressive SB-style in the quicker BB short-period waves. Looked like he was throwing up some nice little fans of spray on his arcs.
Was my first surf in a week and waves were more fun than I expected, with some punchy sections. Nice to get in the water.
How many days should I wait to ask for a 2nd surf?
Was fun to swap boars and he nailed the dims on the Mitsven quad minisim, as usual. The square tailed one I sold last year was fun but just too wide at 22” and this felt much better. Does everything you’d want it to: Paddles and catches waves, easy glide, flowy and loose but not slippery. Will definitely order a copy at some point.
It was cool to see SBD surf the mini asym with a more aggressive SB-style in the quicker BB short-period waves. Looked like he was throwing up some nice little fans of spray on his arcs.
Was my first surf in a week and waves were more fun than I expected, with some punchy sections. Nice to get in the water.
How many days should I wait to ask for a 2nd surf?
When there's no one out on a Sunday in So Cal you know it's not very good. I'm forgetting how to surf. 
I think the key is not replying to his texts too fast, dead give away
@oeste858 is such a player, met me for the RK hydrodynamica hipster event last night at Pastel then got after it with SBD this morning. 
I was not cool enough to be in that hipster shop. That was pretty fun to get RK chatting about the evolution of all the minisim variations, helping Tomo in the beginning, and some behind the scenes with XTR. Seems like he’s trying to really relaunch the HD brand, and was stocked on a couple new variants: the Mini III (with a hip and 3 boxes) and a Slimmons (narrrower & longer).@oeste858 is such a player, met me for the RK hydrodynamica hipster event last night at Pastel then got after it with SBD this morning.
@jkb he confirmed that putting in the MR twin + trailer was a game-changer on the GMM2. Gotta try it, bro
He made no mention that you were talking it’s him last night. What a dirty slut.@oeste858 is such a player, met me for the RK hydrodynamica hipster event last night at Pastel then got after it with SBD this morning.
Small but clean junk with my old roommates in warm water. No complaints.
Surfing Ulu, a promising session. Got a few waves, Mason Ho was in the lineup, it was all pretty cool. Then a disgruntled dude came up and started berating me for cutting to the front of the lineup. I was bewildered. The lineup was only about six people and they were all sitting about 20 to 25 feet from where the wave is breaking.
The way this section breaks, at the very tip sometimes it closes out, sometimes you get a long ride. So what you'll often see is most people hang back and catch it slightly later because it's more consistent. A smaller group of guys wait at the tip. Sometimes they get great rides, sometimes they get closeouts. Just a gamble.
So I was going for the tip but this guy took great issue with it, he yelled at me and it kind of soured the entire session. But I just don't see what I was doing wrong. I've surfed here 50+ times and never had an issue. I was surfing according to how this lineup always works, but on this one occasion the entire ritual had changed (at least according to him) and I was being a jerk.
Dunno. I'm just venting because it's been bugging me and I want to move past it. This guy also told me "YOU DON'T SURF WELL!" Which, fair enough. But I was catching longer and better waves than him haha.
Anyways. Indo is a shitshow again, prepare accordingly.
The way this section breaks, at the very tip sometimes it closes out, sometimes you get a long ride. So what you'll often see is most people hang back and catch it slightly later because it's more consistent. A smaller group of guys wait at the tip. Sometimes they get great rides, sometimes they get closeouts. Just a gamble.
So I was going for the tip but this guy took great issue with it, he yelled at me and it kind of soured the entire session. But I just don't see what I was doing wrong. I've surfed here 50+ times and never had an issue. I was surfing according to how this lineup always works, but on this one occasion the entire ritual had changed (at least according to him) and I was being a jerk.
Dunno. I'm just venting because it's been bugging me and I want to move past it. This guy also told me "YOU DON'T SURF WELL!" Which, fair enough. But I was catching longer and better waves than him haha.
Anyways. Indo is a shitshow again, prepare accordingly.
Got to the regular early still dark. I was tired and the waves looked blah. Took a quick power nap in the truck waiting for the tide to fill in. After five minutes I ended up watching the Surfline cam from the parking lot at the break I was at. How lazy is that?
Watched for about 20 minutes and saw the best waves were on the end. Barak was snagging most of them cause everbody was too deep and too slow to make it from the normal take off.
Paddled out as Kyle was paddling in and he tells me it’s horrible. Told him you were sitting too deep. Show me. I’ll show you. That friendly challenge fired me up.
Got out and told the crew you guys are sitting too deep sit by B, he’s getting open ones over there. A couple of them moved over and a set came right to me. I wasn’t planning on tricking them but they were cursing me out as I took off. Haha.
Waves slowly got better as the tide filled in. Got a couple other nuggets and closer to dialing in the new Tokoro Pro3.
More swell coming. Chee
Watched for about 20 minutes and saw the best waves were on the end. Barak was snagging most of them cause everbody was too deep and too slow to make it from the normal take off.
Paddled out as Kyle was paddling in and he tells me it’s horrible. Told him you were sitting too deep. Show me. I’ll show you. That friendly challenge fired me up.
Got out and told the crew you guys are sitting too deep sit by B, he’s getting open ones over there. A couple of them moved over and a set came right to me. I wasn’t planning on tricking them but they were cursing me out as I took off. Haha.
Waves slowly got better as the tide filled in. Got a couple other nuggets and closer to dialing in the new Tokoro Pro3.
More swell coming. Chee
A long lost art.
I showed my setup last week. Went to same place, but paddled straight out. What a difference it makes when the wave are not complete chop. Still, waist high at best. The waves were not conducive to motions of rippage, but offered up some decent cruises. Got two lip "hits" where the power was weak that body torque was the only thing the got me back down the face. Pretty much a forced windshield wiper. Waves were better, only had to one one 4x4.
Two groups of 13 year old kids tried to 000 me, but they didn't have the skill level to be pests and they drifted down the way. At this spot it seems like the typical surger does not know how to pay attention to lineup markers, their loss.
Later on buddy from down the street and his wife paddle out SUPS after parking their giant e-bikes. We chat, share some story. I get asked if I've seen Bassy lately. yada-yada-yada. A nice one comes in, SUP guy could've crushed me, but relented, lol. Anyways, best wave of the session. The wave was the only one that had any challenge. It was asking me "Think you can keep up?". I did, rode it to shore. When you catch a wave that is sooooo much better than the others, it's time to pack it in.
Fark, we have two hotels competing for the scanty bits of sand. They bring out the lounge chairs and umbrellas, and kinda dominate the space, What to do? Heh heh, I have acquired one really nice towel so far.
Sand seems to be making more efforts, it's been flat for weeks, we shall see how this holds up.
I am digging how the lack of beach has positively affected the beach crowds!
slight onshore junk. paddled for exercise. Really wanted to ride the flare but it was still groveler material. couple spicy snaps made it somewhat worthwhile. water still cold.
0.7 ft on buoy this morning.
July can suck my balls.
July can suck my balls.