Pre-dawned the regular. Tried to get a couple in the dark before the QS fired up and all the competitors came out for a warm-up surf. Waves were slow in filling in and I hadn’t surfed in 2 weeks cause it’s been flat. Fumbled on a couple to start off. I’m surprised my paddling was ok but my legs were like baby giraffe learning to walk. Well Asian pigmy giraffe.
It used to bug me when the competitors used to surf my regular but this crew was super respectful. Couple of them asks if I was going on a few sets. I just told them to go. Plus a bunch of them I know or know their parents. Got a couple nuggets. Sprayed with one of the women pros but not on purpose. Told her sorry. Haha.
Marty called the comp off cause it was too inconsistent. But I’m sure they’ll run tomorrow.
Neal was out. Sure he got some pics of ripping cause the crew was ripping.
It used to bug me when the competitors used to surf my regular but this crew was super respectful. Couple of them asks if I was going on a few sets. I just told them to go. Plus a bunch of them I know or know their parents. Got a couple nuggets. Sprayed with one of the women pros but not on purpose. Told her sorry. Haha.
Marty called the comp off cause it was too inconsistent. But I’m sure they’ll run tomorrow.
Neal was out. Sure he got some pics of ripping cause the crew was ripping.