***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,137
9,375
113
eastside oahu
Pre-dawned the regular. Tried to get a couple in the dark before the QS fired up and all the competitors came out for a warm-up surf. Waves were slow in filling in and I hadn’t surfed in 2 weeks cause it’s been flat. Fumbled on a couple to start off. I’m surprised my paddling was ok but my legs were like baby giraffe learning to walk. Well Asian pigmy giraffe.

It used to bug me when the competitors used to surf my regular but this crew was super respectful. Couple of them asks if I was going on a few sets. I just told them to go. Plus a bunch of them I know or know their parents. Got a couple nuggets. Sprayed with one of the women pros but not on purpose. Told her sorry. Haha.

Marty called the comp off cause it was too inconsistent. But I’m sure they’ll run tomorrow.

Neal was out. Sure he got some pics of ripping cause the crew was ripping.
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,792
23,654
113
Tower 13
Looked kinda meh from the beach but ended up getting a ton of rippable peaks on the flare. put new mayhems and 80/20 rears in and it seemed to mellow the board out a tad. Much cleaner today and some actual fun waves so I got a great feel for the board and it fvcking rips. I think Tim laced it with crack. That guy sure knows how to listen and implement tweaks into his designs.

IMG_3515.jpg
 

Northern_Shores

Miki Dora status
Mar 30, 2009
4,518
4,456
113
goofyfoot yuri!
I had to check and I have only surfed one other day this year. In January! Last autumn I did some surfing, but not much. So I've been off surfing for almost 1,5 years.The previous winter season 2020/2021 I surfed a lot, but this season I was working and skiing, so almost no surfing.

Goes to show Yuri is just a greasy diet and a day job away from us all :roflmao:
 

tedshred5

Michael Peterson status
Aug 5, 2015
2,788
6,559
113
Looked kinda meh from the beach but ended up getting a ton of rippable peaks on the flare. put new mayhems and 80/20 rears in and it seemed to mellow the board out a tad. Much cleaner today and some actual fun waves so I got a great feel for the board and it fvcking rips. I think Tim laced it with crack. That guy sure knows how to listen and implement tweaks into his designs.

View attachment 132006
That thing is a friggin beauty
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,137
9,375
113
eastside oahu
Got a couple in the dark before all the competitors came out for a warm-up surf. Rode the 5’10 Tokoro 4X. Boar is money if the waves have a pocket.

Some head high plus waves. Got a couple of good turns compared to yesterday. Waves went lully and waited a while for my last one before I paddled over to Rockpiles.

Rockpiles was kinda soft and too straight. Lots of closeouts so I paddled over to Kaisers. Felt a little lost there. Knew a handful of guys and figured out where to sit and got a couple of fun lefts. Most everyone wants the long shot rights so I sat under them and went left. Last wave was really good took off deep and late. Came around the section and it stood up and got anvert bash right into a snap. Rode it to where it closes out into In-betweens and proned in.

Happy Father’s Day.
 

vanrysss

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 25, 2019
1,639
3,690
113
from Oregon, now SD
Country straight firing. Got two great sessions yesterday with a very light crowd for an hour each. Head high and very nicely lined up. Paddled in both times with a belly full of waves when it got too busy for me, give or take two hours each.

Today probably 4ft at around 11 for an hour. Tried to time the crowd again with mixed success. Only got a few waves, but pretty happy with them. Early morning at low tide must have been epic. Bout to paddle back out, but the cam shows two dorks on SUPs... :violin:

Weapons of choice have been that 6'6" DJ twin-pin and my 7'2" mid fish for yesterday evening's high tide session.
 

Senor Sopa

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 11, 2015
1,377
2,184
113
Ponto
Bright blazing sun all day for Father's day. Waited on the tide, but not too long that the wind crushes everything. Tight interval wind swell from the North. So it was down to Cracks/Boulders zone. Chatted with a bro on the beach, he pointed way the F down the way. Homey aint gonna walk that far for the same crap. Caught a few rights, much better than last week's sess, but still not anywhere near what any could call good. 5 duu's tried to 000 me, but their puny shortboars could not withstand the combo of riptide and longshore current. Buh-bye, should I come pick you up at Grandview after? LOL

Tons of families showing up to celebrate the day, making the most of the sand less beach.

Funny chit: scrambling up the cobbles, a little rock got stuck between my toes, pretending to be a sandal strap., hurt like a mf'er. No pain no gain?
 

Swallow Tail

Billy Hamilton status
Oct 6, 2017
1,737
3,070
113
Your Mom’s House
First post in this cool thread!
Has been unusually good June here. Fortunate to live in a zone that has spots that pickup South and NW swells, including spots that go off on short period wind swells- A number of them can score empty or just small regular crew.

Pics from session just myself and one friend out + my dog running loose on da beach.

96F942CE-A7AA-444E-8A75-242588B09898.jpeg5831B80D-EFCE-407C-BB3F-70928B1F0138.jpeg
 

j_mac

Legend (inyourownmind)
Aug 16, 2020
421
1,585
93
I am slammed with work, but the sessions I do get are stellar, and so much fun. This morning was probably my best session at the punchy beach break. Every wave gave me something. I was grinning in the line up, everyone knew I was having fun, good vibes. I have been surfing the Mini Ghost and Album Disorder. They provide different flavors, both fun in their own right.
 

Northern_Shores

Miki Dora status
Mar 30, 2009
4,518
4,456
113
clean early then blown out junk. thick crowd at dawn for mediocre waist to chest high windswell peaks. new 6’8 wtfo was super fun. lively ride and sheds tiger than my bigger one. View attachment 132076View attachment 132077

thx oceanslide for pad suggestion. works well. sole_bro approved placement too
Tell Jim Tramp to stop ripping off my shapes. I made the blueprint for that type of vessel two years ago.

Exhibit 1: Wide tailed, green, twofinned surfboard (with better spray!)
1655753401644.png

He is going down like Amber Heard in court. sh!t the bed and prepare the defense, retard!
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,024
17,498
113
San Diego, CA
3725480E-37D2-4307-A156-43014C7B0564.jpeg
reunited and it feels so good. Got my 6’4 egg back from @tedshred5 after Oeste demo / outsourced boar storage program.
waited out the tide all morning, finally some lil thigh-waist high wedges at the main reef as it filled in late morning. Got more lined up at the end, but I had to run to a meeting. beautiful summer conditions too.
Have a feeling I’ll likely be on this or the minisim all summer