Late lunch surf after a week of being over worked and feeling like ass. Crowd was hectic but I got a few okay ones. Came home to a covid notification and tested positive. Dope.
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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter Kento
- Start date
"better than rat" now playing as "would be epic d-land"
@Kento may get it by now.
if not, that and a bowl should get you out there.
but i avoided that mess this weekend. showed face instead two days at my favorite nw wind sw swell longboard spot. waist high. tit on the sets. user friendly and well attended if not well surfed.
for all the waves in this zone always surprises me what crap longboarders the locs are. i tread lightly and other than 1 entitled born n raised chick they mostly seemed to enjoy watching me surf their wave.
which is good because in a couple months the gloves (figuratively) will come off and these muthers rip hpsbs.
no talent on the cobbles. even soups cheesy moms would be headturners at this latitude. as the saying goes- "you dont lose ur gf in _______, you just lose ur turn"
felt a little haggard this morning after the wedding we attended last evening and the wife relented and we didn't do our regular Sunday 6 mile morning beach walk, so I did some school prep stuff, cleaned all the dog sh!t on the property (my two dogs plus a bonus bulldog of the peeps who watched our house while we were gone for 2 weeks as they have left town and we kept their pup). noticed it was warm and humid and as the tide dropped this afternoon I knew just where to go, as I walked down the beach I saw a euro tourist couple sitting under a sketchy section of bluff and being a good citizen I was walking over to explain to them that the bluff they were sitting under was sketchy and the should move away a little from the bluff when I noticed the wife was totally naked in her beach chair, being a good samaritan I didn't deter from my mission and walked right up and let them know they were in peril, they seemed to understand and i kept walking, when i made it down to my zone a 16 year old grom I know came running up, hey did you see the naked lady?!!! Yes grasshopper, I have been to Hossegor and seen more boobs than you can imagine, they are tourists and probably a little confused about the local customs. anyways I had a great surf in warm water and caught dozens of fun combo swell waves. yewww
Nice BR story.
My string of fun sessions ended, oh well. Laziness and lack of driving anywhere better made me ask myself, "why the hell do I come to this spot?" If past history is any indication of the future, I may be dry for two weeks.
My string of fun sessions ended, oh well. Laziness and lack of driving anywhere better made me ask myself, "why the hell do I come to this spot?" If past history is any indication of the future, I may be dry for two weeks.
Same spot as yesterday not quite as good. started off with three nice cracker rights then it slowed down tremendously. Flare felt good but could have also ridden the 6'1" with no problem.
Little cold cut combo swell today got a few fun ones on the wtf before conditions deteriorated
Pumping swell at Ulu, what a blast. Surfed 4 hours. Caught so many waves, and also got caught inside quite a bit and spent eons underwater.
I think the Tank is my favorite step up I've ever surfed. A damn fine shape.
I think the Tank is my favorite step up I've ever surfed. A damn fine shape.
Nice one, Sam! How big's the Tank?
Polar opposite for me today. Small swell and NE winds, so no Point surf, and beach looked clean but dogsh!t at first glance.
SW and NW swells running, though, and an incoming tide, so took a big board and gave it a shot. Turned out bloody fun, with bowly little wedges popping up, and nobody out.
Only waist to chest high, but on an 8'6 that doesn't matter. Had a good time trying to tuck myself into tiny almost barrels, or just gliding in the steep pockets.
Btw, any suggestions for a fin setup? Running a 6'5" Bonzer fin with 4" McCallum quad fronts as sidebites. Goes well, but might as well ask the collective. Board is 8'6 x 22 x 3 1/4 - somewhere between a pulled-in short longboard, a voluptuous fun gun, and a mini glider. I guess, haha!
Polar opposite for me today. Small swell and NE winds, so no Point surf, and beach looked clean but dogsh!t at first glance.
SW and NW swells running, though, and an incoming tide, so took a big board and gave it a shot. Turned out bloody fun, with bowly little wedges popping up, and nobody out.
Only waist to chest high, but on an 8'6 that doesn't matter. Had a good time trying to tuck myself into tiny almost barrels, or just gliding in the steep pockets.
Btw, any suggestions for a fin setup? Running a 6'5" Bonzer fin with 4" McCallum quad fronts as sidebites. Goes well, but might as well ask the collective. Board is 8'6 x 22 x 3 1/4 - somewhere between a pulled-in short longboard, a voluptuous fun gun, and a mini glider. I guess, haha!
My tank is a 6'8Nice one, Sam! How big's the Tank?
Polar opposite for me today. Small swell and NE winds, so no Point surf, and beach looked clean but dogsh!t at first glance.
SW and NW swells running, though, and an incoming tide, so took a big board and gave it a shot. Turned out bloody fun, with bowly little wedges popping up, and nobody out.
Only waist to chest high, but on an 8'6 that doesn't matter. Had a good time trying to tuck myself into tiny almost barrels, or just gliding in the steep pockets.
Btw, any suggestions for a fin setup? Running a 6'5" Bonzer fin with 4" McCallum quad fronts as sidebites. Goes well, but might as well ask the collective. Board is 8'6 x 22 x 3 1/4 - somewhere between a pulled-in short longboard, a voluptuous fun gun, and a mini glider. I guess, haha!
Wild board you've got there! Reminds me of this ozzie guy who makes insane bonzers
@sameoldhatsameoldshoes Instagram profile with posts and stories - Picuki.com
Explore @sameoldhatsameoldshoes Instagram profile with posts and stories - Picuki.com
www.picuki.com
My friend has one that's roughly 3 5/8 thick with rails as thick as a baseball bat but it still works.
What do you ride that big thing in?
It's my longboard, only I don't like 'Longboarding'. It's for catching micro waves, gliding in slopey sh!t, and just cruising when I can't be bothered making a shortboard effort.
I suggest moving the fin all the way back. The box looks really far up. Depending on the actual distance from the tail, I may consider cutting off some the of tab at the fin base also, squeeze in an extra 20 mm.It's my longboard, only I don't like 'Longboarding'. It's for catching micro waves, gliding in slopey sh!t, and just cruising when I can't be bothered making a shortboard effort.
sides look big. Does it feel sticky?
Slightly onshore this morning but it cleaned up allowing for some decent waves on the flare.
Slightly onshore this morning but it cleaned up allowing for some decent waves on the flare.
Yesterday afternoon had the best looking little combos at the North end of The Beach I've seen in a while. Kinda glassy.
I was on dad duty but went for a look.
Nice to see a little WNW and NW poking through and giving the middle of the beach some early love.
I was on dad duty but went for a look.
Nice to see a little WNW and NW poking through and giving the middle of the beach some early love.
Take it easy man. I said slight, not “ nobody dares to even check” onshore
havent been out in over a month. greeted by clean mellow peaks. lost count on how many waves i got. frontside carve felt like butter on my last wave. left the water with a giant smile on my face. stock meter full
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Glad to hear the giant FireWire logo back tattoo is healing. Did it get infected or something?
what boar did you use for your comeback? Stumps WTF?