Got a couple small weak waves barely enough power to stand up and back to cold ass water
I need a yolo to pull me out of this funk
I need a yolo to pull me out of this funkREMINDER: THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. has no obligation to monitor the Forums. However, THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. reserves the right to review any materials submitted to or posted on the Forums, and remove, delete, redact or otherwise modify such materials, in its sole discretion and for any reason whatsoever, at any time and from time to time, without notice or further obligation to you. THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. has no obligation to display or post any materials provided by you. THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. reserves the right to disclose, at any time and from time to time, any information or materials that we deem necessary or appropriate to satisfy any applicable law, regulation, contract obligation, legal or dispute process or government request. Click on the following hyperlinks to further read the applicable Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.
***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter Kento
- Start date
Nah man I haven't messed around with anything quite that fancy. I'm mostly focused hand positioning and holding a good edge. I have done a couple spinners or whatever they are called. Bodyboarding is fun stuff, especially now that I got a real bodyboard that's big enough for me. You never know I might become a full time dick dragger.
Meager conditions, but beautiful weather and water and got a couple on the longboard with Dudebro and obslop. Good morning.
Had the midlength crisis out at the Ulu today. Caught 8 or 10 waves and a gorgeous bomb to end the session. This board is so much fun, it sticks to the face crazy good for a twinny. Would definitely recommend.
Re:Aruka's El Rollo's, it's all about the barrel.
I've been known to partake in the boogie. Spot at south end of town used to offer up playdoh machine lefts on the flat days. No fins, wade out, jump in and get barreled. My junk spots used to be super barrel, to crush. Sands gone now, more surfable.
Yes, so meager, so clear, we seem to be back to warm water. We need to make some side bets on how many more fluctuations we get.
For thigh high, it's amazing how many different ways the same spot can break. Yesterday's session lost most of the chop swell and actually showed miniature south lines. Of course, this makes my meagers spot more challenging, it's much better going right than left. Managed to find a few mini-chunks, with one left that actually had me, heaven help me, pumping to keep up.
Funny chit: I managed the entire session dry hair. That's how teeny the waves are, but not so small that your not even sitting on the boar. Last wave, I force ride continuation, and make to the "reform". Fade back left, and whammo, shore side rail catches. Full flail body plant, yes, hair got went. Sometimes it's amazing how fast one can eat it, especially when riding knee high and super slow.
Cool chit: There's noticeably more sand on the beach every day. Talent level is increasing, weekend forecast looks promising. Spoiler alert, I'm old, talent is relative. Winning ticket at this beach is if both mom and daughter are age eligible and cute.
Clean, completely gutless, grovel waves this AM at a well-known beach break. Dolphin carcass washed up on the beach, pretty ominous. Funny I can grovel better on this boar than a 35 liter Plasmic. (Definitely the archer.) Swiss army boar.…Lost, non-fancy construction, twin PLUS trailer ftw! 
Last edited:
As the epic run of flatness continues. Even smaller, we are talking differences of inches now. But more wedgy. Sitting on the rocks, again contemplating no going out. I see the one other guy out, get a nice toes over on a giant long boar. That was enough motivation.
After session, I drove past the guy in the lot, stopped and told him I saw his good rides. He was super stocked to hear this. This was just another unremarkable session, no one cares, no one saw nothing. But out of the blue some guy pulls up and tells you he saw you catch fun ones. Yep, share the stock.
I decided to make a little travel log of yesterday's mission.
Looking North, the green umbrellas are one hotel, the black ones a different hotel. Low talent level all around this day.
young, old and medium age talent
Now we're talkin! Surf mom and stocked instructor.
Arghh
Cheesy moms
After session, I drove past the guy in the lot, stopped and told him I saw his good rides. He was super stocked to hear this. This was just another unremarkable session, no one cares, no one saw nothing. But out of the blue some guy pulls up and tells you he saw you catch fun ones. Yep, share the stock.
I decided to make a little travel log of yesterday's mission.
Looking North, the green umbrellas are one hotel, the black ones a different hotel. Low talent level all around this day.
young, old and medium age talent
Now we're talkin! Surf mom and stocked instructor.
Arghh
Cheesy moms
A week of very small swell, uncharacteristic of west coast winters, but this is the third La Nina one in a row.
Anyway, winds were promising, and with a bit of creative thinking and effort managed to have some good waves and great adventures.
- two surfs at semi-hidden beach peack
- two boat trips up the coast with meh to barreling waves
- two sessions at my beloved offshore sandbar, which while a mere shadow of its former glory at the mo provided super fast chest high zippers with a few high barrels.
Absolutely glorious weather, but freezing cold yesterday morning - literally.
Anyway, winds were promising, and with a bit of creative thinking and effort managed to have some good waves and great adventures.
- two surfs at semi-hidden beach peack
- two boat trips up the coast with meh to barreling waves
- two sessions at my beloved offshore sandbar, which while a mere shadow of its former glory at the mo provided super fast chest high zippers with a few high barrels.
Absolutely glorious weather, but freezing cold yesterday morning - literally.
Cruised down to Mitch's and picked up a new shortie suit. On the way back, pretty much mandatory to pull in at Machado Reef and check it. Waves looked not fun, crossed up, 30 duus out in the shorepound. Outta here, but not before some snaps
Front view was better than side view
Mom Pack. Hip hands is pissed cuz she's been trying to wave junior in out of the surf.
Anyways, I bailed out. Drove home, prepped, and went to my usual. Sweet, the wave were at least twice as big as all week, this means moobs high. Acutally looked kinda rough, pushing tolerable size for my zone. I went past my usual, another 75 yards. I call this peak, South Cracks. There's a small focal zone, but then a long shelf that's usually super unfriendly. I dunno, combo of tides, sand, moon, whatever, the peak was good fun, tons of waves, super stocker of a session. Oh yeah, again, nobody out.
Inside Joke chit - A few here beside Doc Flav and OneOff, may be familiar with this expression. "Better than Rat". Yes it was, way better.
Cool chit - In the evening, me and wifey went for a cruise. The intent was to get some drinks, but somehow we wound up on the shore at the bottom of the cliff by BR's zone. Waves looked super fun! Halfway down the trail, there's a guy carving rocks with a file. I've been known to come home with rocks, so we chatted. Down on the beach, little kid tells me he's looking for skipping stones. I say cool, underneath your rocks are the one's I want. I wind up chatting with dad, they're from New Mexico, renting a place for the whole summer. Mom and 10 yr kid come out of the water right at sunset. We all talking, and I look down at the boar. It's a Wegener. I felt compelled to tell them how I went to intermediate and high school with the shaper. And that the older brother now lives in Byron Bay. The kid was wide eyed on this story like I was a mystic revealing inner wisdom, lol.
Wife is a pro, got them together for your standard beach family photo with sunset in the background, yawn. I kid, the photo turned out super.
Fork, I hope all this being nice chit starts paying back some dividends.
Front view was better than side view
Mom Pack. Hip hands is pissed cuz she's been trying to wave junior in out of the surf.
Anyways, I bailed out. Drove home, prepped, and went to my usual. Sweet, the wave were at least twice as big as all week, this means moobs high. Acutally looked kinda rough, pushing tolerable size for my zone. I went past my usual, another 75 yards. I call this peak, South Cracks. There's a small focal zone, but then a long shelf that's usually super unfriendly. I dunno, combo of tides, sand, moon, whatever, the peak was good fun, tons of waves, super stocker of a session. Oh yeah, again, nobody out.
Inside Joke chit - A few here beside Doc Flav and OneOff, may be familiar with this expression. "Better than Rat". Yes it was, way better.
Cool chit - In the evening, me and wifey went for a cruise. The intent was to get some drinks, but somehow we wound up on the shore at the bottom of the cliff by BR's zone. Waves looked super fun! Halfway down the trail, there's a guy carving rocks with a file. I've been known to come home with rocks, so we chatted. Down on the beach, little kid tells me he's looking for skipping stones. I say cool, underneath your rocks are the one's I want. I wind up chatting with dad, they're from New Mexico, renting a place for the whole summer. Mom and 10 yr kid come out of the water right at sunset. We all talking, and I look down at the boar. It's a Wegener. I felt compelled to tell them how I went to intermediate and high school with the shaper. And that the older brother now lives in Byron Bay. The kid was wide eyed on this story like I was a mystic revealing inner wisdom, lol.
Wife is a pro, got them together for your standard beach family photo with sunset in the background, yawn. I kid, the photo turned out super.
Fork, I hope all this being nice chit starts paying back some dividends.
the lids can get super barreled in meager conds. best sesh i ever had was black alled hb southside with only 2 other lids out trading set waves
normally i go to bed at 8 and get in the water at 5
but last night i had to pickup wife from airport at midnight
so i slept in til the dog woke me at 6
of course the surf was good, i'd already missed an hour of the least crowded time
luckily nobody was at my little out of the way peak
so i had it all alone ....for 20 minutes.then 2 dudes set their sites on my peak
peaky warm glassy, but tricky, mushy,
of course 2 decent waves came to me right when the tards were choosing a peak-
they didnt get sh!t
not as good as it looked
after the 2 dummies decided not to follow me anymore, cuz waves are the same for miles...
a 70 pound probably 14 year old girl paddles out. this kid is tuned right in to sitting on my peak
no moving around, or giving up and finding another area
i was kinda wondering why she wanst surfing with friends where the cool kids go
well when i went in and gave up, she remained in my spot
right there on the beach 4' from my bike was a chair, and what looked like her dad, taking pics of her with a tiny, shitty looking camera
i believe he instructed her to surf exactly where i was, after walking her way down the beach and deciding on my solo peak
the future is not bright
but last night i had to pickup wife from airport at midnight
so i slept in til the dog woke me at 6
of course the surf was good, i'd already missed an hour of the least crowded time
luckily nobody was at my little out of the way peak
so i had it all alone ....for 20 minutes.then 2 dudes set their sites on my peak
peaky warm glassy, but tricky, mushy,
of course 2 decent waves came to me right when the tards were choosing a peak-
they didnt get sh!t
not as good as it looked
after the 2 dummies decided not to follow me anymore, cuz waves are the same for miles...
a 70 pound probably 14 year old girl paddles out. this kid is tuned right in to sitting on my peak
no moving around, or giving up and finding another area
i was kinda wondering why she wanst surfing with friends where the cool kids go
well when i went in and gave up, she remained in my spot
right there on the beach 4' from my bike was a chair, and what looked like her dad, taking pics of her with a tiny, shitty looking camera
i believe he instructed her to surf exactly where i was, after walking her way down the beach and deciding on my solo peak
the future is not bright
back in the water after my little vacation. Sad to find out that my rib is still hurting. Not horrible but I thought I'd be much further along by now. Rode the mitsimmons so give me more foam. fair amount of decent waves and felt good to get some turns and rebounds in.
@Senor Sopa the talent is much better slightly north of your normal spots down a cliff about mid day 
Took my oldest with me yesterday. All of a sudden, he's popping up pretty fast, riding down the face, and doing re-entries. I don't know what got into him. He's actually listening to me now too.
So much more is caught than taught.
Took my oldest with me yesterday. All of a sudden, he's popping up pretty fast, riding down the face, and doing re-entries. I don't know what got into him. He's actually listening to me now too.
So much more is caught than taught.back at home from Kauai getting ready to start my 30th school year next week, my oldest friend big Dem called on his way down to SD from the Nard yesterday for his nieces wedding today so I told him stop by my casa and I wlll find us some waves, about 9 AM he arrived and did the drive by for the local beachy but no parking, so pulled out the state pass, parked and walked a few hundred yards to our own peak. Fun little windswell peaks and the water was nice 67 or so. We graduated HS together in 84 and we were talking about who was left from our graduatiing class that still surfed, out of 30 or so surfers there are about 5 of us left. We agreed that Mike D living on Kauai the last 30 years is rated #1, but since our friend Lips died last year it is now between me and my old pal to see who is second on the list, so we ran a heat and it was on like Donkey Kong. I started the heat with a super long right which sectioned off and connnected to a second section, neat little head dip and the wave ran and ran, early lead BR, then Big Dem gets a left and runs it equally long with a close out bash. We agreed that 1 scoring wave had to be switch foot and I lost my board trying to cross step switch, I look out and Big Dem has a left that keeps going and going, he took off switch (i prefer to bottom turn then spin around off the top Rell Sunn stylie) and he nearly gets a little tube then runs the next section hauling ass, a right is comgin to meet the left and he banks the rebound and beaches it. Fuckin buzzer beater win. BR is now # 3 ranked class of 84. Wife and I are taking the coaster down to Old Town for the wedding in a few hours, gonna be a rowdy one I expect. No dawn patrol tomorrow. Cheers.
i forgot to add the best part
b4 i paddled out i took a sh!t on the beach 15' from my bike. medium tide would wash it away, but i was there for low and it tends to ward off kooks
well the dad who sent his kid to steal my peak was right there next to my turd. smelling it all the while, as he watched his kid ruin my life
turds dont ward off all kooks
but theres a good chance he stepped in it when he left
Sorry peeps, no more disgusting images. I think my beach attracts the least amount of talent, in all areas, ladies and surfers.@Senor Sopa the talent is much better slightly north of your normal spots down a cliff about mid day
Noon, again. I'm in a rut. South Cracks, nobody out, had to do some wading in the rock wash to get there. What was cool about this session, is that at the end of each ride, where you have to prepare to get worked paddling back out. A surge/backwash thing would just suck me right back out. if I didn't know better, it felt like an accumulation area in the reef, and then the water has to flow back out. Super fun session.
Random dude chit - Guy is getting out of the water as I'm walking by. Huge belly and his giant Walden Magic Model. I know this place is not user friendly, and this guy looks, um, not skilled. I ask, "catch any out there?" He says three. So I follow up with "How many did you try to catch", he says three. Good answers, so we chat a bit. This guy is from Baltimore Maryland, You can't make this stuff up.
Later on, there was a memorial paddle out at the alphabet letter spot here in town. Fark me, the waves were good. Oh yeah, bikini zone was richtoring also. Way better waves than what I've been riding, way more guys than I surf with too. LOL, there's too many spots to surf in my town. The dead guy wasn't much of a surfer, but his old friends sure are. It was 1984 Seaside Reef reunion. Packs of duu's that I used to have to defer to.
Sampling of stories told on the beach, Gerrlach at Oakcrest Intermediate, Biolas as the guy sweeping the shop, Xanadu having to step up as a shaper after the big N. County drug bust in the 80's, Colin Smith as a scrawny kid. Wound up at Cap'n Kenos afterwards. Yesterday was a good day!
fun beach peaks on the psycho crack infused flare. fvck that board rips.
even gots me a cover up today!
warm water and waves brought the masses. It was pretty frustrating dealing with the people,
even gots me a cover up today!
warm water and waves brought the masses. It was pretty frustrating dealing with the people,