***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

[Sam_K]

I'm a pretty $hit surfer but my one claim to any kind of competence is that at least I can ride bigger waves. Well, usually I can at any rate. Not this weekend though. I thought I'd get cute and take out a smaller board. I'm skilled, I can get deep, I said to myself. Yeah, well... A 30% reduction in foam led to about 80% less waves.

Pumping Ulu. Yesterday I surfed the 6'8 when I should have brought the 8' and today I surfed the 6'6 when I should have brought the 7'. Caught four waves the entire weekend and I feel silly. I didn't realize just how much of my competence depended on having a lot of foam.

Anyhow... On the bright side, I sure got my exercise. I practiced spending a lot of time underwater, and I did some real world product testing on my leashes. I rate them Grade A. Rarely a dull moment when Ulu is 2x oh

 

[j_mac]

My body is tired and feeling it, especially from a couple of barrel close-outs - it good sign and great feeling...being content! Though, I plan to surf more today. Waves are back, at least for a few more days.! Thursday night, Friday a couple hours after work, Saturday double session (midday and evening). Mostly surfing the Arakawa Jackpot. For a pointy board it catches waves well and has great speed! I love the performance! It changed my whole view on shortboards. The Jackpot was a random, unplanned for YOLO as my friend was at out of town surf shop buying one and sent me a text. Though I was moving toward this direction, it would be a while as I would proceeded down the line of more hybrid/alternative versions. Anyway, I am having fun!

 

[silentbutdeadly]

Thumpy racers on the 6'1 today. Got one sick one, rest just so so. Not as consistent as yesterday and just wasn't in sync. Waves had some serious energy

 

[Aruka]

Ended up taking the 6-8 Townsend out at the local yesterday evening. It was inconsistent and shifty. Maybe chest high on the sets. I got a few really fun ones though. Was glad for the extra board to get into them early because they were running so fast. My body is pretty sore today but mostly in a good way.

 

[b.r.]

surfed the last four days in a row, 1 beach break day and then 3 different reef spots in the zone. some long lulls between the bigger sets but I got nothing but time and sat out the back for a couple hours each day getting some really fun waves, Friday was mostly rights, yesterday was almost all lefts with a couple large sets rolling through. Pleasantly sore and stoked the old body is holding up. Must be all the squats and deadlifts.

 

[toowalled]

Ended up taking the 6-8 Townsend out at the local yesterday evening. It was inconsistent and shifty. Maybe chest high on the sets. I got a few really fun ones though. Was glad for the extra board to get into them early because they were running so fast. My body is pretty sore today but mostly in a good way.

Does south swell make it all the way up there ?or is it windswell in summer?

 

[Aruka]

Does south swell make it all the way up there ?or is it windswell in summer?

It needs to be a legit south swell that isn't too steep of an angle and even then there are only a handful of spots that do much with it. Mostly for summer surf it's morning windswell sessions at the exposed beaches before the wind comes up. That is, if the wind does die down overnight. It can blow day and night here in the summer when a strong high pressure moves in. It's blowing NW 30 mph right now and forecasted to drop down to 10-15 mph overnight for instance. I mostly just try to work a lot in the summer so I can bail to somewhere warmer and surfy for a bit each winter.

 

[000]

back still hurts, but its a bit less each day
still surfing on it no problem
long waits for closeouts though, and i'm still gettin followers
sure is important to have my back foot as far back as possible on my oversized tomo

 

[MathDebater]

Mixed it up this weekend pretty successfully. Had grand plans of getting out a bit early and catch the tide push at a secluded spot but had a minor dog emergency that pushed me well in to peak crowd hour and with not a lot of time to surf. I decided I’d go hassle for a few at my favorite left On the twinsman. It wasn’t perfect conditions but there were some nice peaks coming through, it was hard to connect the main peak through to the inside but when you did they were super fun, lined up for tons of turns. It took me a second to adapt to surfing a non chunky grovel board but sheesh, I love this thing. The extra pop from the varial felt like it made a huge difference in fighting my way through the flat section in the middle. I trunked it even though it was overcast and cool, the water was definitely a bit brisk for that but I managed. My best wave had a head high peak outside that I rolled into early, did a few gutbacks through the middle then I ran off with a couple float and turn sections. Stock is high. I’m pretty sore today.

 

[Oceanslide]

Shouldn’t be surprised, but holy crap was a certain left reef packed today. Paddled out, caught 3 quickies under the pack, then just marveled at the madness, the fukkery, and wanted to get out. Ended up just paddling north h and in to belly a wave to the beach.

 

[doc_flavonoid]

It needs to be a legit south swell that isn't too steep of an angle and even then there are only a handful of spots that do much with it. Mostly for summer surf it's morning windswell sessions at the exposed beaches before the wind comes up. That is, if the wind does die down overnight. It can blow day and night here in the summer when a strong high pressure moves in. It's blowing NW 30 mph right now and forecasted to drop down to 10-15 mph overnight for instance. I mostly just try to work a lot in the summer so I can bail to somewhere warmer and surfy for a bit each winter.

nothing quite like the inevitable disappointment of yet another south beat down by a few hundred miles of 30kt nw wind

 

[silentbutdeadly]

Few and far between but a small handful of some really good ones on the 6'1 mitsven. Medium 2 johns and 3.75 rears felt really good per Bob's suggestion. I guess shapers know a thing or two. Wife and daughter just got the rona so should be an interesting week

 

[000]

another day of scoring. it was sunny and glassy for once, so that made more crowd.
as usual i was alone early and some dipshit who was sitting elsewhere saw me getting waves and used me for positioning the rest of the day. then eventually a bunch of em did. but i got plenty before and during. one dork who was following me hard even cut me off. wasnt even a good wave but the fact that he would do that to me makes me madder than i want to admit. so any time he paddled for a wave after that, i went. he was also a terrible surfer. shitty surfer, follower, and no respect for the rules: he is exactly the type of kook who ruined surfing. as usual i was the only guy doing off the lips, even at the peak of the crowd. biggest sets were still mostly closeouts, but inbetween gave me some good long lefts with several moves. back still hurts. and every time i surf over 2hrs my neck hurts the rest of the day. should be a week of neck and back pain til it goes flat again and i can heal. water feels warm again

 

[casa_mugrienta]

Wife and daughter and me just got the rona so should be an interesting week

fixed

 

[silentbutdeadly]

dick

 

[sdsrfr]

to be fair, I know of multiple families where one spouse and one kid recently tested positive (PCR) but the rest of the household did not.

good luck and more reason for extra sessions this week to stay out of the house.

 

[casa_mugrienta]

dick

If you live in the same house with two people that have it and sleep in the same bed as someone who has it it's pretty much unherd of NOT to get sick.

Unless you're the one who infected the two people.

It's absurdly easy to catch, one of the most easily passed respiratory infections ever identified...if not the most transmittable.

Everyone is going to get it; nearly everyone has had it.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

I know, just sayin

 

[casa_mugrienta]

to be fair, I know of multiple families where one spouse and one kid recently tested positive (PCR) but the rest of the household did not.

good luck and more reason for extra sessions this week to stay out of the house.

Generally I believe these people are not swabbing correctly.

Just my 2 cents.

I love it when everyone in the house has COVID, except one person, who despite being sick as a dog tests negative through the whole thing.

Seen this happen several times.

Most recently it was my mom.

Dad had COVID, mom had "just a sinus infection" lack of appetite, barely left the bed for 2 days. I'm literally LOL'ing.

I had to instruct my dad on proper technique, of course she was pissed when he did it proper, and of course she tested positive.

 

[sdsrfr]

Generally I believe these people are not swabbing correctly.

no doubt and for sake of tangents will not go into detail but the folks I reference have full service testing available to them and the ones negative had 0 symptoms. these people do not swab their own noses, a nurse does it on their behalf.

nobody was sharing a room with the positive household members; they all segregated the home bc one parent had it and the other didnt. part of me thinks same as you, they were positive, just not to a degree that showed up on tests, albeit even PCR.