***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

[Sam_K]

The last few days have failed to click. sh!t just hasn't been going my way even though I feel like I'm making OK decisions. It's like you shove pre with pocket aces and the dickweed who calls with 85 off hits trips on the turn. You still made the right decision to shove, you just got unlucky.

At the end of the session there was one final set that came in, one chance to end it on a high note. But some atrocious person was deeper than me, paddled for the wave and then backed off at the last second. I was in perfect position for it but didn't paddle because he was going for it. I got so mad, I channeled all my silent fury at him then paddled in.

Highlight of the day was seeing someone else surf. From the cliff I watched some ludicrous human being pull off three airs, including one massive flight, on like 60 feet of wave. He was on the wave for about 9 seconds, so he was averaging an air every three seconds. I think it was maybe Mason Ho, or if not him then some other pro surfer in town for the upcoming Gland event. Really wild to see someone get that vertical.

 

[tedshred5]

You guys are running keels in your moonstoned, right?
I was surprised to measure only 6 1/3” from the end of my Mistven keel… but it’s 5’6

Yeah, captain fin CC keels. Actually I was mistaken, I re-measured and it’s 6.5”

 

[trifish]

@oeste858 @tedshred5 you guys measuring from base of trailing edge or tip?

 

[tedshred5]

@oeste858 @tedshred5 you guys measuring from base of trailing edge or tip?

from the base

 

[trifish]

from the base

Just checking. Thats interesting yours is further back. They have my 6'2" at 8.5.

 

[oeste858]

Just checking. Thats interesting yours is further back. They have my 6'2" at 8.5.

That’s a big difference.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

big and thumpy on the 6'1. It sucked. Kinda knew it would suck. Should have opted for a reef but I'm too tired to deal with crowds. I need a rest lol.

oh and I definitely pushed beyond the upper limit of my 6'1". And my leash is probably 4 inches longer.

 

[tedshred5]

That’s a big difference.

yeah, that IS a big difference. maybe we're measuring differently haha

 

[silentbutdeadly]

That’s a big difference.

you guys know this is a surfing forum right?

 

[oeste858]

you guys know this is a surfing forum right?

So, not a measuring contest between strangers on the internet??
Edit: great thread idea for the weirdos on the Gen. Pop. forum!

 

[SD_Dan]

Got a couple fun ones at a popular SD reef this am. For a wave that can be so mushy I am always amazed how pummeled I get when a big set comes through.

 

[MathDebater]

Had my best session yet on Oeste's twinsman. I went to my preferred reef for this swell/tide combo but it was mobbed and I was running late, so instead I opted for a wave that wasn't seeing as much size but had a thin crowd. Right off the bat I was on it, waves coming straight to me. I was having one of those magic days where everyone else is getting pulled out of position by the current but I was getting put right onto the peak. Finally did some good backhand turns on this board, they felt great. I switched to lefts for the second half and continued being a wave magnet. I finished with a high line to very forced head dip and close out shwack. Stock is high.

 

[teeroi]

Dawned the regular. It dropped a lot but still a little overhead. It’s the in between size that makes Big Bowl and Middles weird. Rode the 5’10 4X and got a set at Big Bowl that didn’t barrel but rode it to the boat channel and got a couple wraps. First performance type turn in a week. First wrap was awkward second felt better.

Paddled over to Middles to try to hunt a medium one that wouldn’t shut down. Got a nugget and went vert on the first section and saw the younger crew smiling and laughing. Steven told me that was a good turn. Got a deep one and did a turn right on @sponge and sprayed his camera set up. I could here the crew laughing at that. Told them I was posing. Haha.

All the crew that was out on the bigger days are surfed out tired. It’s a good feeling. Went in early to work. I bet as the swell gets smaller and stops breaking at Big Bowl the Middle will get really fun.

 

[Senor Sopa]

Waited out the morning sickness, paddled out around 3:30. Waves looked so fun while changing and paddling out. It must be me, waves went flat for 45 minutes. 2 hours, 7 waves, meagers. One was late drop straight to Davey Jones, another was a front foot slip to recover to back foot slip. Funny chit if weren't so embarassing. Good waves, poor performance, twice in a row. All upside from here.

Cool chit. guy next to me in lot, with battered blue foamie and 7 month baby, asked me how my sess was. I had to tell the truth and say it sucked, even though the waves were good and it was glassy. We chatted, and I asked about his Joey Thomas sitcker. He got all excited after I told him I knew guys that rode JT's back in the 80's. He told me that Richard Schmidt taught him to surf. I had to ask if it was via surf school. He said he's in a band, and he was told to man up and paddle out with them. He's from Mississippi originally. Fark, the convo was better than my session.

 

[Sam_K]

I wrote earlier that I thought I saw Mason Ho doing crazy sh!t. Guessed it was Mason because he was doing physics-defying punts and the bottom of his board was colored psychedelic. It wasn't him though, it was Italo Ferreira!

Unfortunately this video misses the best stuff. He never lands an air in the video but on the ride I saw he landed three airs from a single wave. Truly extraordinary skill. Makes me want to buy a Patterson board #marketing

 

[PRCD]

Waited out the morning sickness, paddled out around 3:30. Waves looked so fun while changing and paddling out. It must be me, waves went flat for 45 minutes.

Same. I got a bunch but it was still kind of walled even with the tide. Seemed like everyone was racing down the line and rarely finding a section to hit the lip. At least the wind stayed down and the water warmed up. Going to try it again shortly. The wind isn't cooperating but I think the pier might help.

I've definitely packed on a few pounds since the last time I wore this 2/2.

 

[MathDebater]

met up with my buddy at the same spot as yesterday. It actually looked a touch better but there were some loooong lulls. I was hungover and pretty wiped from my surfs during the week so I opted to ride the VS mid twin for the first time in a few months. Sheesh I love this board. Late drops, flying around sections, even some surprisingly nimble turns.

 

[Bob Dobbalina]

I'm still on the "watch other peple surf" program of baby care.

Saw the same guy on a shiny Mayhem pop up to his feet and pearl at the bottom of the wave 3 times in a row at Fort Point yesterday. Saw him get out and it was the guy with wife and daughter on the wall watching. Hell of a way to spend Mother's Day Morning. ouch. I hope Brunch was good.

 

[PRCD]

Swell period and small craft advisory say, "Victory at sea" without even checking the cams. Summer still hasn't arrived.

 

[Havoc]

I'm still on the "watch other peple surf" program of baby care.

Saw the same guy on a shiny Mayhem pop up to his feet and pearl at the bottom of the wave 3 times in a row at Fort Point yesterday. Saw him get out and it was the guy with wife and daughter on the wall watching. Hell of a way to spend Mother's Day Morning. ouch. I hope Brunch was good.

ur surfing will never be the same again after kids. what he accomplished is the new standard once u have young kids