Another phenomenal day. Blue skies, light wind, clean conditions and smallish waves. Pretty much the California dream day.
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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter Kento
- Start date
Finally a really fun session.
Here is usually good shape but too small. And more often than not; good size but poor shape.
Today those finally aligned. And i had to leave early…
Here is usually good shape but too small. And more often than not; good size but poor shape.
Today those finally aligned. And i had to leave early…
Fun morning at the main reef. Played on the rocks with the kids for an hour, then got out for a quick session while the fam stayed on the beach and climbed around and had snacks. Clean waist-chest high wedges and runners on the Lightbringer with album/shapers PT fins. 20 guys out with lots of friendly faces and nice catching up after holidays. A pack of high school groms on the inside left. I stuck to the inside right, wide-swingers, and any right that snuck through the outside pack. Some steep takeoffs and fun racy faces, bit backwashy on the end inside. Boar is a blast: snaps, carves, cuties, floaters. I'm having @MrSteve order all my boars now. LOL.
Beautiful sunny day and clean fun conditions.
Beautiful sunny day and clean fun conditions.
lovely weekend, didn't have to go anywhere, good conditions all day and surfed the wrong tides/tide direction on purpose.
Sat afternoon/evening:
Baby big wave day. surfed a shortboard in a small pack people on guns, still tried to sit outside and wait for good ones. Beautiful crisp clean big looking sets breaking on outer bars but there was just too much tide so it ended up being pretty soft. Caught a few bombs with dramatic-feeling drops and then just kicked out with no wall.
today afternoon:
Same board, dropping swell, offshore wind kicked up a ton. Looked like it'd break on those same outer bars, then started only breaking inside. Did a few long cutbacks on waves that were peeling in between the sandbars. Looked like there must be real barrels as they lined up inside but I just couldn't find one. Went in pretty quickly.
Sat afternoon/evening:
Baby big wave day. surfed a shortboard in a small pack people on guns, still tried to sit outside and wait for good ones. Beautiful crisp clean big looking sets breaking on outer bars but there was just too much tide so it ended up being pretty soft. Caught a few bombs with dramatic-feeling drops and then just kicked out with no wall.
today afternoon:
Same board, dropping swell, offshore wind kicked up a ton. Looked like it'd break on those same outer bars, then started only breaking inside. Did a few long cutbacks on waves that were peeling in between the sandbars. Looked like there must be real barrels as they lined up inside but I just couldn't find one. Went in pretty quickly.
Same experience. I checked the waves at PPP at sunset on Saturday, knee-high, sigh. Woke up yesterday, checked the bouys, pleasantly surprised to see an unexpected jump. Thusly, I ambled down to Machado Reef, got there as the ranger was opening the gate. Couple of guys out, looked mostly fun. Caught a few on the inside, the decided the outside was better. Just in time for lullaby, again, arghh. Finally caught a good one, trying to go around a section, the lip hit my tail and acted like a teeter-totter. Of course, the second I came in, a 5 minute set hit. Final score 8 waves, no good rides, one wipe out.
Cool chit - Cold enough for steam to be rising in the lineup, somewhat surreal.
Wait, what? 2nd session with brand new wettie, I could feel the breeze on my back, not warm. Same brand, ONeil 3/2. After session, there was frost on my windshield. Yes, I parked in the shadows, lesson learned. Yeah, the peeps from actual cold places can laugh, but this San Diego pussy was wearing shorts and slaps.
Saturday was pretty much jumbled up funky junk and nothing was really working at all anywhere. Bummer because conditions were clean but just really chopped up swell.
Sunday was cleaner but the offshores were howling 30+ mph, way too strong. Wasn't too bad when I paddled out but got progressively stronger and I wished I had surfed a different stretch. Not to mention one holy hell pain in the ass current that constantly kept pushing you too far out. Super frustrating session that had me cussing a blue streak as it was also incredibly hard to get into because of combo of wind and draining tide, meanwhile was constantly paddling. Stayed out a while out of futility but not a good session overall by a long shot. Seemed like I would be fighting the current inside, finally line up where I wanted to be, and then the set wave I was waiting for would break 5 feet in front of me.
Did get 2 pretty decent barrels that resulted in involuntary doggy door exits as they pinched out so that kind of made up for it. To cap it off, last wave, just kinda backflopped out of the back of the wave out of resigned frustration, collapsed the tail of my board into the water sending it straight up just for the usual giggles. Yeah, that was a retarded move. Wind took that board, lifted it, and sent into my face at high speed fins first. Got a hand up and ducked my head just in time, took a fin to the wrist, thankfully it was glancing and wetsuit sleeve took the brunt of it, only left with pretty much a welt and slow-forming bruise. Really lucky as that stupid move could have been far worse.
Semi-redemption after as stopped by the usual crabbing spot and did catch a dungeness to cook up and eat during the Raider game (which somehow did not give me a heart attack). It was an old and tired crab that didn't have the usual amount of meat but still really tasty.
Sunday was cleaner but the offshores were howling 30+ mph, way too strong. Wasn't too bad when I paddled out but got progressively stronger and I wished I had surfed a different stretch. Not to mention one holy hell pain in the ass current that constantly kept pushing you too far out. Super frustrating session that had me cussing a blue streak as it was also incredibly hard to get into because of combo of wind and draining tide, meanwhile was constantly paddling. Stayed out a while out of futility but not a good session overall by a long shot. Seemed like I would be fighting the current inside, finally line up where I wanted to be, and then the set wave I was waiting for would break 5 feet in front of me.
Did get 2 pretty decent barrels that resulted in involuntary doggy door exits as they pinched out so that kind of made up for it. To cap it off, last wave, just kinda backflopped out of the back of the wave out of resigned frustration, collapsed the tail of my board into the water sending it straight up just for the usual giggles. Yeah, that was a retarded move. Wind took that board, lifted it, and sent into my face at high speed fins first. Got a hand up and ducked my head just in time, took a fin to the wrist, thankfully it was glancing and wetsuit sleeve took the brunt of it, only left with pretty much a welt and slow-forming bruise. Really lucky as that stupid move could have been far worse.
Semi-redemption after as stopped by the usual crabbing spot and did catch a dungeness to cook up and eat during the Raider game (which somehow did not give me a heart attack). It was an old and tired crab that didn't have the usual amount of meat but still really tasty.
evening session much better than the morning. a little more consistent and a lot less crowded.
finally got some carves and snaps to my satisfaction before heading home. feels like it’s been weeks since i cranked out multi-turn combos in the pocket.
all and all decent nigjt cap to the weekend of otherwise meh surf.
finally got some carves and snaps to my satisfaction before heading home. feels like it’s been weeks since i cranked out multi-turn combos in the pocket.
all and all decent nigjt cap to the weekend of otherwise meh surf.
Sat afternoon/evening:
Baby big wave day. surfed a shortboard in a small pack people on guns"
Small swell blessing in disguise? Sizable great white spotted cruising through lineup at one of our big wave spots in Cambria. Be careful out there.
Saturday - went for bicycle ride, found BBQ operating in front yard of a guy's house in Visticon Valley selling to the public, so win.
Sunday - out the rip easily enough, then partway to the Farallons before I realized it. Paddle back in on south side of the rip, then found myself in a pack that I wanted nothing to do with, so paddled south, only to get in another rip. When I get out of that one, somehow I am back in the pack? Did they all drift my way or did I paddle into a new pack or what? So I duke it out, fighting current, wind, and the pack, and try to time the infrequent set that breaks on the outside. I fail doing that well, so I move inside for a shot at the higher frequency side of things, and get cleaned up, dropped in on, flail due to offshores screwing up my drops (ok, it was me screwing up in dealing well with the offshores, not the offshores themselves), and then when presented with a great opportunity, paddle over it thinking there was a better one behind it and find that it had shifted over. Turns out the last wave of the session was the best, and really, the best part about that was the fact it put me in the knee deep water at the end....nothing particularly grand elsewise.
Sunday - out the rip easily enough, then partway to the Farallons before I realized it. Paddle back in on south side of the rip, then found myself in a pack that I wanted nothing to do with, so paddled south, only to get in another rip. When I get out of that one, somehow I am back in the pack? Did they all drift my way or did I paddle into a new pack or what? So I duke it out, fighting current, wind, and the pack, and try to time the infrequent set that breaks on the outside. I fail doing that well, so I move inside for a shot at the higher frequency side of things, and get cleaned up, dropped in on, flail due to offshores screwing up my drops (ok, it was me screwing up in dealing well with the offshores, not the offshores themselves), and then when presented with a great opportunity, paddle over it thinking there was a better one behind it and find that it had shifted over. Turns out the last wave of the session was the best, and really, the best part about that was the fact it put me in the knee deep water at the end....nothing particularly grand elsewise.
Same bastard currents, different spot!
I would love to know how I went left, kicked out, paddled diagonally north, and ended up 50 yards SOUTH of my original takeoff spot.
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thinking about drifting to sea while being obsf levels of exhausted giving me sweaty palms this afternoon.
Swell building fast this morning. Already up a few feet from sunrise. Deep water reefs showing signs of life. Conditions are clean and offshore. Sky is bluer than blue. Boards are loaded. Should be an epic 5 day run. 
No swell yet here but some remnant s in the water with enough to grovel at desperation zone. couple fun ones at spot a then the crows got too much so I went to the normal bar. not very goof but I randomly scored this right that was the first wave of a bigger set and it just lined up on the rip and clean water perfectly. Definitely a diamond in the rough that allowed for a nice snap, roundie, and solid wuhpow on the clooseout section. dank farts album treated me well this morning.