Not a lot of waves this morning for the quicky but got 3-4 that allowed for multiple powerful turns on the GX.
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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter Kento
- Start date
Back to the big harbour bar this morning, and had my best surf there so far.
Got heavily pinched on one barrel and ended up standing in chest-deep water - almost a mile from shore
Got heavily pinched on one barrel and ended up standing in chest-deep water - almost a mile from shore
Clean lil thigh-high dreamers this afternoon at a local reef. Rode the 6’4 PlasmEgg again. Split the peak with a SUP sweeping the left so I went right the whole time. Most waves were just cruising, hipster-crouching, and trimming from the middle of the board before it ran into a little section on the inside to float over before kicking out over 6” of water. Entry rocker is so flat, I feel like I paddle so far forward on it and have to remember to slide back to the tail when popping up. Got 2 sets that offered a steeper drop that the boar handled well from the tail and a wall i could fit a couple snaps on. Haven’t surfed much the past month, so I was Stocked.
20 min surf at the north end of the beach this morning. chest high tide inner sandbar looked like it might be fun but got out and it was more walled than I thought, had brought the good wave shortboard for some reason so felt like waaay too much board. pulled into two lil' micro double up closeouts then went in. should have bodysurfed. real waves coming!
Maiden voyage on the new groveler in crap waves. So far so good. Not as grovely as my sub (expected) but more shortboardy. Very fluid transitions from skatey drive sections to smooth turns and roundies. Couple of lip bashes and the board stayed with my feet wel. Construction feels light, snappy and crisp. Maybe could have gone a tad thinner but it's a groveler so I'm not really concerned. Here she is all dressed up after our romp.
5 days on Maui visiting the whole famn damily for Chrismahannakwanzika... wind never stopped, waves were weak the entire time. Scored maybe one session at the Harbor and one session at T-----s. So be it.
Flew to Kona. On day 7 of this one. Surf hasn't stopped. Weeeeeeeeee.... scored a solid and non-stop OH+ day yesterday on the 5'8" Tomo round nose V4 (old Old OLD faithful). Late takeoffs over the boils going left - exciting for this regular foot. Hoping for more of it today. Wifey even scored on her 7'2" Seaside & Beyond surfing the inside reforms. Everyone's happy. Ba----'s was loaded with people. so surfed K------- instead with just 5 other guys. One guy destroyed his board and 3 guys weren't going for the set waves... which mostly closed out but were so damn exciting. L O V E D I T
Who doesn't love this ocean life?!?!
Flew to Kona. On day 7 of this one. Surf hasn't stopped. Weeeeeeeeee.... scored a solid and non-stop OH+ day yesterday on the 5'8" Tomo round nose V4 (old Old OLD faithful). Late takeoffs over the boils going left - exciting for this regular foot. Hoping for more of it today. Wifey even scored on her 7'2" Seaside & Beyond surfing the inside reforms. Everyone's happy. Ba----'s was loaded with people. so surfed K------- instead with just 5 other guys. One guy destroyed his board and 3 guys weren't going for the set waves... which mostly closed out but were so damn exciting. L O V E D I T
Who doesn't love this ocean life?!?!
You're both screwed. He said it was the first surf of the year.
I'm glad I don't believe in such sayings.
Some fun ones today.
hopfully i’m on it tomorrow as well.
Long ssss Drive though
hopfully i’m on it tomorrow as well.
Long ssss Drive though
Last day in Kona this morning. Had to run from the break to the airport for a Mokulele flight that was bumped up in time for take off. Surfed H---l's with just 4-5 other people and had a blast. Lots of good vibes. Great rights. 3 California wavestormers showed up and tried to take over the peak. I was one wave from yelling at them to show respect... then caught my last wave in. Left on a great vibe. Love Kona and WILL be moving there.
Now sitting on Maui, missing the chill of Hawaii.
Now sitting on Maui, missing the chill of Hawaii.
Flawless again this morning. Small 2-4' range but conditions could not be more than perfect today. Offshore, clean conditions, blue sky, and no great whites. What a day!
Wonky swell this morn but plenty of it. Mostly closing out. I was a bit under-slept. Ate sh*t hard on one drop as I wasn't sufficiently angled and hit my my head pretty hard against the water. Came up seeing stars which was amusing. Still, got a pretty good left.
As the tide went out this sort of double sandbar was created and two waves were breaking concurrently quite close to each other and it became hard to paddle out.
Big tree floating around the lineup, glad I didn't run into it as I bellied in. Better luck tomorrow I guess.
As the tide went out this sort of double sandbar was created and two waves were breaking concurrently quite close to each other and it became hard to paddle out.
Big tree floating around the lineup, glad I didn't run into it as I bellied in. Better luck tomorrow I guess.
mostly closeouts but a couple runners on the spegg this a.m in SLA. annoying current and rips but it was keeping people spread out and out of position. pretty morning, not to chilly and a nice cotton candy sunrise. ill take it!
closeouts with some decent ones in the mix if you were lucky. spark plug felt good on the few I got.
Same same, with long lulls between. cold morning air at least kept the crowd down.