***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

[MathDebater]

Busy week at work so I wasn‘t planning to surf much but today looked irresistible. Beautiful day, low winds during low tide. I pulled up and the crowds were light too. I am a bit hungover and even though I knew there was some period energy I only brought a comp leash. i intended to paddle out to the left but ended up switching to adjacent right after watching 2/4 people surfing it get little inside barrels. I got a few fun ones but the current was cranking and taking off too deep a few times felt like it really stressed my leash. I paddled over to the left and got busy on the inside, nothing special but tons of fun 3-4’ waves. When the tide flipped the inside peak disappeared and the waves picked up. I got a few fun ones on the outside and took one that I connected through all the way in. A couple of loccs got into at the peak after some wave hogging. The hog in question then tried to point at me and say I’d been taking too many waves, which didn’t really convince anyone. Weird reaction.

 

[Senor Sopa]

Midday low tide. Other reefs were bigger, but didn't have time for a long paddle, so went to main reef for Hh sets with only 15 guys out (half were just buoys). Not as clean as it looked from beach, kinda sloppy and section-y, but still fun. Weird swell, little bit wonky on the face.

Wowzers, I would've thought all time today down there.

Lot's of peeps noting the long walls. Right reef at south end of town aboluley loves long walls and minus tides. Again, sheet glass and bigger than yesterday, more consistent too. Caught lots and lots. This means there were multiple times where paddling back out getting a wave even before making the last 20 yards to the peak. Nice mix of hitting the lip with abandon and hard stalls in the sidewalk section. It was good day for some big hits and hard turns, stocked!!!

Funny chit: Paddling back out, nice one coming in, I start cheering for Bassy. He paddles around a guy from outside to get deeper, guy goes, Bass gets so much speed on bottom turn he passes guy instantly. LOL, then sprayed me pretty hard.

Funny chit 2: Regular goes in front of me, doesn't know I'm back there. I wait till he starts a top turn and then pass from above, then did a cutback around him. He "freaks" and kicks out, super apologetic. I'm laughing, all cool. Best part, this was when Bassy was first paddling out, front row seat for the mayhem. Bit later, guy is telling me to go in front, I decline. Paddles back out, "why didn't you go". I chuckelds and said, "that wave wasn't good enough to share".

Funny chit 3: I've been mayheming and meanacing with Bass for 35 years, 1000's of sessions together, we just somehow know when to show up. Finally got his phone number, lol.

 

[oeste858]

Wowzers, I would've thought all time today down there.

Lot's of peeps noting the long walls. Right reef at south end of town aboluley loves long walls and minus tides. Again, sheet glass and bigger than yesterday, more consistent too. Caught lots and lots. This means there were multiple times where paddling back out getting a wave even before making the last 20 yards to the peak. Nice mix of hitting the lip with abandon and hard stalls in the sidewalk section. It was good day for some big hits and hard turns, stocked!!!

Funny chit: Paddling back out, nice one coming in, I start cheering for Bassy. He paddles around a guy from outside to get deeper, guy goes, Bass gets so much speed on bottom turn he passes guy instantly. LOL, then sprayed me pretty hard.

Funny chit 2: Regular goes in front of me, doesn't know I'm back there. I wait till he starts a top turn and then pass from above, then did a cutback around him. He "freaks" and kicks out, super apologetic. I'm laughing, all cool. Best part, this was when Bassy was first paddling out, front row seat for the mayhem. Bit later, guy is telling me to go in front, I decline. Paddles back out, "why didn't you go". I chuckelds and said, "that wave wasn't good enough to share".

Funny chit 3: I've been mayheming and meanacing with Bass for 35 years, 1000's of sessions together, we just somehow know when to show up. Finally got his phone number, lol.

Sounds like you had a fun one.
Yeah, there were lots of waves, just felt like it should've been better than it was. Every reef in the zone was breaking, and some had some size... but none looked high quality. Drove by again mid-afternoon and tide was drained, fairly windy; sets were OH and guys were sitting way outside. I didn't see anyone making it around the long sections tho.
May try to get down to southern reefs under the flight path tomorrow.

 

[MathDebater]

Sounds like you had a fun one.
Yeah, there were lots of waves, just felt like it should've been better than it was. Every reef in the zone was breaking, and some had some size... but none looked high quality. Drove by again mid-afternoon and tide was drained, fairly windy; sets were OH and guys were sitting way outside. I didn't see anyone making it around the long sections tho.
May try to get down to southern reefs under the flight path tomorrow.

It was kind of the same situation down here. But no complaints, still super fun, just not as good as you might think.

 

[bluengreen]

X-post from the OBSF thread. It's a fun story, so I figure I'll post it here too.

paddle out all by myself a little after 9:00 this morning. It's cleaning up with the offshores and tide starting to drop. Big OB. Get punished on the paddle, including taking two set waves on the head just as I (almost) reach the outside. Brutal, cuz my heart rate is high and the hold downs are long. Almost two wave hold-down, come up to see the second one rearing up right in front of me, get a breathe and take another ride. Breathe reflex is pounding in my chest as I take, one, two, three, four strokes to the surface. Finally make it out, sit and breathe. I grabbed two in about 90 minutes. The last one, I'll call a proper bomb. But my waves are beside the point.

Anyway, as I touch sand, I notice a ski idling where you see it in the picture (that's me and my 8'6 Hess on the right of the screen). Saw it come from the north end earlier and thought lifeguards/fire dept. were running drills. Nope. It's some random dude. A couple moments after this picture, a guy comes running down the dune at Noriega carrying what must be a 6'3 round tail Dylan flat deck with no leash.

I recognize him immediately as Lucas "Chumbo" Chianca. I lock eyes with him (yes, he's even hotter in person!), and he runs straight up to me with a huge smile and gives me fist bump (swoon!).
"What's up, Chumbo! I saw footage of you taking a huge one on the head at Mavs yesterday!"
"Yeah, it was heavy, bro. Looking fun out there!"
"Yew!"

He runs out to the ski, which zig zags around until it finds a way out. He proceeds to step-off into a 3x overhead bomb, highlining and weaving like he's on a 6 foot wave, pulls into an absolutely unmakeable barrel, comes out, rides it into the shorey, where he pops an air reverse, and jumps back on the ski. Insane sh!t. True story.

I made an insta post about it: http://instagr.am/p/CaidJ4jLvzL/

 

[silentbutdeadly]

awesome

 

[oeste858]

X-post from the OBSF thread. It's a fun story, so I figure I'll post it here too.

paddle out all by myself a little after 9:00 this morning. It's cleaning up with the offshores and tide starting to drop. Big OB. Get punished on the paddle, including taking two set waves on the head just as I (almost) reach the outside. Brutal, cuz my heart rate is high and the hold downs are long. Almost two wave hold-down, come up to see the second one rearing up right in front of me, get a breathe and take another ride. Breathe reflex is pounding in my chest as I take, one, two, three, four strokes to the surface. Finally make it out, sit and breathe. I grabbed two in about 90 minutes. The last one, I'll call a proper bomb. But my waves are beside the point.

Anyway, as I touch sand, I notice a ski idling where you see it in the picture (that's me and my 8'6 Hess on the right of the screen). Saw it come from the north end earlier and thought lifeguards/fire dept. were running drills. Nope. It's some random dude. A couple moments after this picture, a guy comes running down the dune at Noriega carrying what must be a 6'3 round tail Dylan flat deck with no leash.

I recognize him immediately as Lucas "Chumbo" Chianca. I lock eyes with him (yes, he's even hotter in person!), and he runs straight up to me with a huge smile and gives me fist bump (swoon!).
"What's up, Chumbo! I saw footage of you taking a huge one on the head at Mavs yesterday!"
"Yeah, it was heavy, bro. Looking fun out there!"
"Yew!"

He runs out to the ski, which zig zags around until it finds a way out. He proceeds to step-off into a 3x overhead bomb, highlining and weaving like he's on a 6 foot wave, pulls into an absolutely unmakeable barrel, comes out, rides it into the shorey, where he pops an air reverse, and jumps back on the ski. Insane sh!t. True story.

I made an insta post about it: http://instagr.am/p/CaidJ4jLvzL/

I dunno. I think you won the exchange. Solid wave.

 

[Aruka]

it was pretty stormy here yesterday and today. decided to check a spot down south that can sometimes handle south winds and a fatty swell. it's pretty hard to get a good view of the spot but we could tell there was some energy getting in there so we just suited up and did the mile walk down the beach. it was pretty chaotic but there were some really fun right hand runners to be had. lots of current and duckdiving. the water felt a bit warmer. 48 or 49 maybe. twinsman with nvs album fins felt great. passed a couple of the local guys on our way back to the parking lot. they said it's been fun the past couple days. might try again tomorrow.

 

[oeste858]

passed a couple of the local guys on our way back to the waterfall…

 

[r32]

Of course the day with the most size and the offshore winds change direction.

 

[doc_flavonoid]

Of course the day with the most size and the offshore winds change direction.

and fog

 

[rowjimmytour]

passed a couple of the local guys top less hippy gals on our way back to the waterfall…

 

[Aruka]

not to put a damper on your fantasy guys but the waterfall levels are currently set to "life threatening".

 

[silentbutdeadly]

wonky closed out beachbreak on the Album TMRT. This time I felt every bit of thickness and extra swing weight and couldn't surf very well. Mostly a waste sesh until my last wave that was a right gem allowed me 3-4 really good turns.... and the board felt absolutely amazing.

agggghhhh!

 

[silentbutdeadly]

not to put a damper on your fantasy guys but the waterfall levels are currently set to "life threatening".

You guys ever go to the spot where they found one eyed willy?

 

[oeste858]

wonky closed out beachbreak on the Album TMRT. This time I felt every bit of thickness and extra swing weight and couldn't surf very well. Mostly a waste sesh until my last wave that was a right gem allowed me 3-4 really good turns.... and the board felt absolutely amazing.

agggghhhh!

Wife swap week continues. Was only head high at the main reef but I took out the 6’4 Mitsven SBD stap. Tried to wait out the high tide yet get out before the wind kicked up. Was a bit soft, but still punchy with a lot of water moving around and some fun sections. Rarer winter reef was breaking to the north, but it looked like a big drop then mushed out.

Anyway, the boar has a familiar feel to my usual boars with some width in the front half. Strong paddler and caught waves like a champ. Feels bigger than it’s length and I’m sure I could ride it well OH. Got a few quick/soft rights and my best wave was a long left that kept standing up down the line to be carved up on my backhand.
Stocked.

 

[Mr Doof]

You guys ever go to the spot where they found one eyed willy?

The left isn't as good as you may think

 

[SD_Dan]

Head high beach break on the sakal sabre. Good times but a bit walled. Planning on devoting some time to figure out my midlength. So far so good. Had one other session on a waist high day so far. So far liked it better in bigger surf.

 

[urchined]

Head high beach break on the sakal sabre. Good times but a bit walled. Planning on devoting some time to figure out my midlength. So far so good. Had one other session on a waist high day so far. So far liked it better in bigger surf.

Ride it on a reef. Loves long walls.

 

[Aruka]

You guys ever go to the spot where they found one eyed willy?

please stop sending me PM's requesting pics of one eyed willy...