***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

[Bob Dobbalina]

Got the after work go-ahead from the Mrs and hustled out to the peak out front in the Mid/South zone.

Wind stayed down long enough to have fun. Nothing super notable but it was nice to have an open playing field and some funky roll ins and wedges in and around the rip. The rights would run and double up, but kinda stay fat for longer than you would want. Some of the regular foot guys were getting some fun ones.

One of those days where I just wanted my first wave back. A set that let me roll in before it wedged up in front of me. I said "F it" and leaned in on the bottom turn and aimed for the lip. I thought there was going to be more lip when I got there and I ended up pushing too far and blew the whole board out the back and fell. But it was nice to lay it on a rail and go vert on the forehand before it was all over. The rest of the session was spent replaying what I could've done and looking for another left to lay into that never really came.

Got a few other weird ones. A few surprise running double up rip bowl rights on the backhand. I scrape my front toes, particularly my second toe, in the wax when I get up and it's only gotten worse after surgeries. After a while, it feels numb and fat from the water and from getting rolled on for an hour. I got one more decent left but it was an hour in with no booties and my toe felt all bent and my feet were in the wrong spot.

Overall, happy to sneak one in when I could. I probably won't get out again until the weekend with everyone else.

 

[gbg]

Yep. Great guy, he and his brothers.

How many guys you surfing with?

 

[scdad]

How many guys you surfing with?

The crew I was with was 5 total including me. The most crowded it got was about 15 only for about an hour. Most of the time there was 2-5 people out taking turns.

The oil spill didn't hit us. I heard about it yesterday but it seemed to be closer to Salina.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

groveled on the mitsimmons. couple but overall pretty slow

 

[estreet]

Some fun punchy beach break yesterday with no crowd and strong offshore* wind. Blew the takeoff on a couple of the bigger ones because I got held up by some kite action with the wind and a steep/fast drop.

* meant to say offshore.

 

[MathDebater]

Delayed post. I got to sneak out and catch some pretty good conditions yesterday afternoon at my usual reef. It was a little smaller (chest high) than I was hoping but the shape looked good. I almost stuck with Oeste’s plasmid but it seemed like everyone else was frothing and riding shorter more performance oriented boards, instead of the usual foam arms race. I started frothing too and grabbed my other loaner, a glass on AO. I suspected it was a board I would like based on the description but wow, I clicked with it from the first wave. The tide was pulling some energy out but i kept getting lined up waves and feeling all the speed. This thing flies. I struggled to do turns other than down carves and cut backs but holy sh!t did those feel good. I only had one wave where my feet were off and I had issues. It also paddles shockingly well, it felt like a wave catching machine. Stocked to try it in some Bigger and juicier waves in the future!

 

[oeste858]

Delayed post. I got to sneak out and catch some pretty good conditions yesterday afternoon at my usual reef. It was a little smaller (chest high) than I was hoping but the shape looked good. I almost stuck with Oeste’s plasmid but it seemed like everyone else was frothing and riding shorter more performance oriented boards, instead of the usual foam arms race. I started frothing too and grabbed my other loaner, a glass on AO. I suspected it was a board I would like based on the description but wow, I clicked with it from the first wave. The tide was pulling some energy out but i kept getting lined up waves and feeling all the speed. This thing flies. I struggled to do turns other than down carves and cut backs but holy sh!t did those feel good. I only had one wave where my feet were off and I had issues. It also paddles shockingly well, it felt like a wave catching machine. Stocked to try it in some Bigger and juicier waves in the future!View attachment 140580

Sounds like better, lined up conditions than I’ve gotten it out in! Stocked!

 

[Aruka]

Overhead waves at da reef. Sunny and calm. Somewhat wonky and one needed to be picky to get a good one that lined up. Rode the new Stamps stahp which felt great on the few good ones that I managed to sift out of the rubble. Just myself an a buddy for an hour and then one other local joined us. Pretty fun overall. Water just keeps getting colder.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

Semi rippable peaks on the Flare. Got a couple of good Chris Brown wrap arounds and a few snap'aroos.

Flare is one of the best boards I've ever had.

 

[gbg]

Been a good 3 day run of surf on the Delmarva! Was stuck in VB Monday and Tuesday unable to surf but today was pretty good. I got 3 solid backside barrels. Tomorrow looks good again. I think TeamScam was lurking a dozen or so blocks south. Tomorrow.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

Damn G you must be able to get really compact!

I kid I kid

 

[gbg]

Damn G you must be able to get really compact!

I kid I kid

That's all I can do but yea, grab my rail and tuck in.

 

[Havoc]

couple fun ones before the tide filled in too much. chest to hh couple overhead bombs sneaking in. surflie said 2-3 it was 3-5+. my neighbor barely made it out with all the nw swell. got one really clean left that allowed a bs roundy. shoulda been on my ci m18 alt stap. would had more confidence on the bigger ones.

 

[chilly1]

Dawn patrol chest high reef/point frontside, glorious weather, half dozen out. Perfect match for Plasmic. suck up drops at the point to burgery shoulder, plasmic accelerating through the second half of roundhouse, tic tacs to connect the second peak, very high tide creating waist-high bowl on the inside over where a shelf usually ends the ride, flat-faced roundhouses to step offs on the sand. repeat, nothing ultra special but user frenly. Glanced at the channel to see a few hundred seagulls taking off from the beach towards the line-up but thankfully they all landed far off in the channel! The water getting cooler, but not cold yet, Nor Cal.

 

[Tomay]

First surf on Utopia. Decent HH conditions on a little rip bowl. Paddles well and catches waves easily enough. Got one nice wave on my backhand and it felt fast and solid. Got a nice wrap in there. Got a few closeouts and bigger ones that ran off. Once nice one on my forehand at the end. Feels like the board wants to be whipped around a lot rather than leaned into. Likes a nice bottom turn and has plenty of speed. Will need to get some more sessions to report back fully but initial impressions are positive.

 

[000]

monday i got a buncha tubes alone til the tide got high and backwash caused some odd situation that torqued my knee
felt super hot as it compressed more than i was ready for. hurt for 24 hrs
tuesday was a bit funky, got a few, took it easy on my knee
today was pretty good and i got the best air section... but i an=m trying not to do anything that might hurt myy knee further
so on a bunch of good waves i didnt do enough. just low risk turns
then my bro gave me his twin fin
this will be a several month borrow
its fast and loose and light, but its pretty big for me
however its for mush so what they hell
it will replace the fatass fish i call my "longboard"-( a 6'2")
this new 1 has no dimensions but my arm barely fits over the rail to carry it
epoxy. merrick twins
swallowtail is fatter and deeper than i prefer

 

[paunch23]

Found 3 waves in a 2 hour session… good thing i went with low expectations.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

let down today. looked at a couple of spots and didn't see much. paddled out at spot 1 and it was inconsistent and got busy. good rotation though at least. few good waves other than that, meh

 

[Aruka]

Da reef was pretty fun yesterday. Little bigger and better than the day before. Still pretty messy and shifty but nothing I haven't dealt with before. Took out the 6-1 Disco and felt slightly undergunned but overall it handled the conditions pretty well. Stuck with the quad fins and had no regrets. A big twin fin would have been the responsible choice but I got a few turns on the little disco that had me pretty stocked. There's a stupid rock on the inside that always seems to be in the way and I finally got dry docked on it. Kicked out of a smaller wave and realized it was right under me so I sacrificed myself and kicked the board away. The barnacles cut my hands up a little but nothing serious. The board is fine and that's what matters.

A friend took this pic of me dropping into my last wave and you can see the offending rock on the inside, then out of the way with the lower tide.

 

[tedshred5]

Loaded up my car the night before... but got to the beach, opened the trunk, realized I left my wetsuit hanging in the garage. Rushed back home and grabbed it, then right back to the beach for a ~40min @oeste858 -type session. 3 ft 8 sec high tide wind swell peaks that would build up then mush out on the inside, on the Moonstone, thankfully caught a few. Dude out the back on a Wavestorm catching everything, which was mildly irritating, but otherwise not very crowded. Offshore conditions and the water still feels relatively warm, at least for a 3/2.