WAS KINDA FUN ALL ALONE
tides to high early now, sands gone, lotsa rocks
doesnt look so inviting to retards
tides to high early now, sands gone, lotsa rocks
doesnt look so inviting to retards
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***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
Main reef this morning on a fairly high tide. Lot of water moving around the inside with some CH-HH sneaker sets rolling through. Bit burgery, slightly onshore, but some fun shoulders and racy sections... let's call it... soft quick waves. LOL
Rode the 5'7 CyberSim with rasta twin+trailer again. The other day was about as ideal conditions for that boar as you could get. Today confirmed it's tiny bit too small for me. Struggled getting into waves (tho I wasn't the only one). Need a little more foam- another inch or 2 would probably be enough (that's what she said!). But once riding, man that skateboard feel is so good. Had a couple fun rights with buttery carves. It's a fun design, but I don't think it's better than my Superchunk or SP2 for the same conditions, and wouldn't have as good of low-end as GMM2. Boardhoarding problems, man.
Rode the 5'7 CyberSim with rasta twin+trailer again. The other day was about as ideal conditions for that boar as you could get. Today confirmed it's tiny bit too small for me. Struggled getting into waves (tho I wasn't the only one). Need a little more foam- another inch or 2 would probably be enough (that's what she said!). But once riding, man that skateboard feel is so good. Had a couple fun rights with buttery carves. It's a fun design, but I don't think it's better than my Superchunk or SP2 for the same conditions, and wouldn't have as good of low-end as GMM2. Boardhoarding problems, man.
Looked at the gnarly beachbreak, and it was a little too chunky, plus a little too big for what I would feel comfortable with at the moment. Drove north and poked around some more beachbreak. Basically no established bars right now, but noticed a couple guys sitting on a left that had some consistent shoulders. They were exiting the water so I suited up and tried to pick up where they left off.
Paddle out wasn't too bad, but the waves didn't show anything worthwhile to start. I did get one okay left, then it was a jumbled mess for 20 minutes. One guy was paddling out during the jumbleness, and got absolutely worked just trying to make it past the shorebreak.
To be fair, one set also caught me during that time, but I didn't have as far distance to make it back outside.
After another 20 minutes or so, things settled down and a decent left presented itself in the midst of a rip current. A few more people paddled out, but I managed to snag most of the fun ones, some fast down the line waves, and a couple where I was able to throw a turn or too. Stayed glassy through the late morning. Seemed to get harder to find waves with a corner, so after picking off a mellow one on the inside, I called it. Better than I would have thought after paddling out.
Paddle out wasn't too bad, but the waves didn't show anything worthwhile to start. I did get one okay left, then it was a jumbled mess for 20 minutes. One guy was paddling out during the jumbleness, and got absolutely worked just trying to make it past the shorebreak.
To be fair, one set also caught me during that time, but I didn't have as far distance to make it back outside. After another 20 minutes or so, things settled down and a decent left presented itself in the midst of a rip current. A few more people paddled out, but I managed to snag most of the fun ones, some fast down the line waves, and a couple where I was able to throw a turn or too. Stayed glassy through the late morning. Seemed to get harder to find waves with a corner, so after picking off a mellow one on the inside, I called it. Better than I would have thought after paddling out.
really struck out. had the option to surf either yesterday or today. looked at the forecast and figured it might be a bit smaller but more consistent today. nope. drove down to crowded-pointbreak-land and sat on a longboarder's peak on my giant oversized fish thing. just no energy and pretty inconsistent. caught a few but felt like I was stinkin' up the place with my bad vibes, paddle battling beginners and the like, so I went in. can't complain, looks like there will be a few fun beachbreak days coming up and we're in the season now.
washed the work stress off this morning with a handful of fun ones. bummed I didn't bring a board on my trip, I could of had a quicky in the 805 yesterday before work. Was surprised there were waves.
Rode the gx but should have been on the fuse.
Rode the gx but should have been on the fuse.
repeat of yesterday, same spot, board, etc. short window before the tide sort of killed it but there were some really fun peaks coming through for about 45 minutes following first light. chest + on the sets, water felt warm - it was super packed though - friggen surfline with the good rating yesterday.
anywho - got a few, nothing super memorable other than the dolphins were trying to shred with us all morning.
anywho - got a few, nothing super memorable other than the dolphins were trying to shred with us all morning.
we had a few stormy days. it was nice to let my body recover a bit. couple days ago got a pretty big n jumbled at the local. snagged a few on the 6-6 bpunt. mostly alone except one rando who didn't seem to know what he was doing. water warmed waaaaay up. so nice to surf without gloves for the first time in like....a year?
yesterday i surfed a left hand reef on the infernal sharpie. first wave was an absolute nug. never got another one quite like that but got a few more fun ones. mostly overhead drops into a softish shoulder but some of them would line up through the inside. after the session me and a buddy helped an old eccentric artist lady carry a fire scarred madrone log off the beach. she tried to pay us but we wouldn't accept her money so she gave us a bunch of cookies instead. they were good.
yesterday i surfed a left hand reef on the infernal sharpie. first wave was an absolute nug. never got another one quite like that but got a few more fun ones. mostly overhead drops into a softish shoulder but some of them would line up through the inside. after the session me and a buddy helped an old eccentric artist lady carry a fire scarred madrone log off the beach. she tried to pay us but we wouldn't accept her money so she gave us a bunch of cookies instead. they were good.
Micro session fail at the main reef. usually I’m able to get a few fun waves in and make a quick one worthwhile but today managed only 3 insiders in 20 min. Fun waves compared to other spots… so everyone in town was out! I even tried to stay inside but even those were fought over. Grrr.
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It was absolutely cooking today.
Best waves I've seen since likely the end of 2019(!)
And completely uncrowded
I only got about an hour of offshore winds, then it went dead calm, then a light puff of onshore.
Plenty of push.
Waist to head with a few random overhead sets.
Very peaky and hollow for much of the early morning.
Surfed from 800-1230, with a little break for chocolate ice cream in there to refuel.
A day to remember.
Best waves I've seen since likely the end of 2019(!)
And completely uncrowded
I only got about an hour of offshore winds, then it went dead calm, then a light puff of onshore.
Plenty of push.
Waist to head with a few random overhead sets.
Very peaky and hollow for much of the early morning.
Surfed from 800-1230, with a little break for chocolate ice cream in there to refuel.
A day to remember.
Looks like my crap zone. Got to love the solo sessions
Surfed late morning, PPP. Nice to see the swell direction change. The biggest ones were HH+, with most in the shoulder zone. Lots of current, making the takeoffs be extra "pushy". Bummer the wave would then teepee to marginal shoulder. Seemed like the better the takeoff, the more the "shoulderless" occurrence. Talent level was quite high, but no hassles. Little lower tide and bit bigger would've been real nice. Haven't surfed in 2 weeks, thus, today was a stocker.
Executed a strike mission to Nusa Lembongan. A barge just washed up at Shipwrecks in the same place that the old ship used to be, and some people have said it's made the wave better. Wanted to surf it before they move the barge, if they do.
Brought a Pyzel Shadow I just picked up yesterday and so far, so good. The wave seems better (cleaner) and the Shadow goes great. Really enjoying it.
Supposed to get even bigger the next few days so that should be fun.
Would have stayed out longer today but... I caught my wave of the day, a nice big one and rode it to the end. Just as I was jumping off I saw the outline of this girl deep in the impact zone getting incinerated as the whitewater is breaking in like 2 feet of water. I thought oh damn, wouldn't want to be her. Then I realized it was my girlfriend haha. So she'd had enough and we went in.
Brought a Pyzel Shadow I just picked up yesterday and so far, so good. The wave seems better (cleaner) and the Shadow goes great. Really enjoying it.
Supposed to get even bigger the next few days so that should be fun.
Would have stayed out longer today but... I caught my wave of the day, a nice big one and rode it to the end. Just as I was jumping off I saw the outline of this girl deep in the impact zone getting incinerated as the whitewater is breaking in like 2 feet of water. I thought oh damn, wouldn't want to be her. Then I realized it was my girlfriend haha. So she'd had enough and we went in.
big n lumpy at the left reef. rode the 6-6 sharpeye. got like 3 good waves in an hour and a half. lots of current and sets were shifting all over making it really hard to be in the spot for a good one. still, pretty worth it. board felt great on the waves but it isn't a wave catching machine with all that rocker.
clean micro fun ones on the fuse on a peak to myself at sandbar B. I'll take it.
^ sounds like the opposite of my surf - except the micro part. I knew it was a long shot but I tried to go to my usual high tide summer reef and it wasn't working with the swell combo. Went back to my usual beach and it was a ZOO. Even the manta couldn't save me. It was the first time in years I wished I had my log. Oh well, one non-close out pump to shwack on my backhand to end things on a half decent note. Water felt good, the end of trunking it seems near.
Wind out to sea, locally calm. Tide too high. Went anyway, need to get in shape and remember how to move. Ribs getting less sore with each go out.
Main reef was packed with 30 guys for thigh high onshore crumbles. So went for a paddle out at empty reef #2 just to wet. Got a few onshore knee-high dribblers on the PlasmEgg, but just nice to be out in the afternoon sun by myself for 10-15 min before a chatty military bro paddled out on a surftech Takayama log. We traded waves for another 20min before 3 more guys paddled out and I called it a day.
Local lefts on the lightbender. The bump kept it from being ultra high performance kine surf but i got a few lil nuggys. Board felt good. Water dropping in temp already, dangit.
Man, I need to get back on the lightblender. Next surf for sure, if it’s >waist high
After waiting through the morning big closed out walls to fogged in lineup to glassy light on-shore sunny skies I go out late arvo.
Thick and chunky peaks hitting the inner and occasionally the outer bars. Pretty chaotic but a ton of waves. Paddle out was not difficult.
Hard to pick the right waves with a lot of water moving and peaks shifting so much. Rode the 6'3 RDtailtwinpin, wish I had more board about half the time. But got some fun waves and some pleasing turns. I have been doing a lot of one legged squats as part of rehab, not sure if they are responsible but my surfing has changed some. I'm driving a lot harder and my wrapping turns back to the white water are so much sharper, weird.
Thick and chunky peaks hitting the inner and occasionally the outer bars. Pretty chaotic but a ton of waves. Paddle out was not difficult.
Hard to pick the right waves with a lot of water moving and peaks shifting so much. Rode the 6'3 RDtailtwinpin, wish I had more board about half the time. But got some fun waves and some pleasing turns. I have been doing a lot of one legged squats as part of rehab, not sure if they are responsible but my surfing has changed some. I'm driving a lot harder and my wrapping turns back to the white water are so much sharper, weird.