***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***

[oeste858]

Some fun high tide waist high+ wedges at the main reef. only 3-4 out and better than it looked. Akila contemporary fish is a cheat code: feels so good slashing fs and carving so smoothly. Should've taken my best ride into the beach, but it was so fun I just had to get one more...
Naturally I took a beating on my next wave. Couldn't quite scratch in early enough but managed to unexpectedly stick a 4' airdrop, landed with my knees locked and flat-footed and got taken out by the lip. Hit the shelf with my ass, spinning around twice, covered my head with one arm, while grabbing the reef with the other hand so it wouldn't throw me again. Couple seconds away from that panic feeling. I really need to work on my breathing. Lot of water in both ears, and still draining out my nose a couple hours later. Good times.

 

[000]

glassy, peaky, pretty fun and all alone, except for the great whites

 

[rowjimmytour]

glassy, peaky, pretty fun and all alone, except for the great whites

Big boyz headed South for the summer

 

[Aruka]

drove the hour and a half north to surf a river jetty wedge. thought it was gonna be fairly mellow based on the forecast but it ended up being solid. well overhead sets. cold, brown water. a few locals who I recognized. tons of inside corners to be had so we stayed busy. i had to stay moving because my feet were cold from the get go. got some set waves too but honestly some of the smaller double ups were better I think. rode the 6'3" CGD round pin and it felt perfect. this wave has so much push and it's just about my favorite thing in surfing to ride a round pin and push as hard as I can through some turns. got a few tubes as well but never managed to get one of the rare mutant spitters. one local guy was charging them from deep. not a great style but he was fearless and making most of his drops. it finally dawned on me that it was one of the local kids all grown up. i remember surfing it with him as a skinny kid, looking scared and shoulder hopping. not anymore. pretty cool to see. overall a super fun session.

picked up some fresh oysters and beer on the way home. yeehaw.

 

[oeste858]

Working down south today so surfed a beach break down there. Akila contemporary fish again. Got a couple little runners then it shut off for a while at high tide. Pretty crowded too. Believe it or not, my f-n leash string came untied! so I swam in and my board avoided the jetty rocks by about 20 feet. Took that as a sign so pulled the rip cord and drove south towards the Pt, in wet fullsuit- KOTD style. North peak wasn’t breaking but south peak was pretty fun with only 3 others out. Chest high sets coming through outside and then running through and jacking up when it hit the inside section. Couple quick head dips, some fs slashes and bs speed runs. Got a bunch then got out as it started to get more crowded with crusty longboarders and the wind started putting some texture.

 

[Oceanslide]

Got 2 left runners on a new-to-me Mandala 7’2” Delta V twin that jacked and ran before closing out. Then a retarded crown descended and f’ed up the rest of the session.

 

[need 4 speed]

Couple lined up left runner mid jetties, some size on the sets

 

[oeste858]

Met a buddy out at the main reef this morning. Good size/shape on a rising tide… but very crowded for one tight takeoff zone today. No out-swingers or sneaker sets, just 25 dudes on the peak. I really didn't feel like hassling, so went all the way to the inside... but almost nothing snuck through the pack except scraps. Finally after several of the big dogs got out around the same time, things opened up and I was able to get a couple sets. One HH right lined up all the way and I got some good open-faced carves and a quick coverup- almost made up for a frustrating session. Otherwise, I think I had 4-5 waves in an hour, including 2 closeouts, and a kickout with someone behind me. Rode Retodd;s old 5'8 snub-nosed Stumps tkf. Wind had come up at the end making it bumpy, so called it a day and went to get a bialy bagel.

 

[Kento]

Wind was still blowing NW at 28kts at midnight last night so morning sickness was a given. Paddled out around 8 and was pleasantly surprised by how fun it looked while beach and water were desolate. Head high to a few feet overhead on sets. Nice to use that 6'7" roundpin as had to fight to get into the waves. Super low tide but the rip still generally held true and shorebreak was almost nonexistent. Alas, 2/3 of the way out, had to duckdive a wave that swung wide, would have been hairdry aside from that. Got some really fun lefts right off the bat with several halfway decent turns. Wind turned offshore around 9, which lasted about 45 minutes before turning right back to NW at 10+kts. Water heated up to about 51 or so, which felt balmy compared to last weekend.

The rights were kind of garbage but the lefts held up a long ways, enough to get at least a few sizable turns in, but would leave you right in the sandbar churn. Couple times I was able to fight over the top but as two other guys paddled out, got a left, which I ended with a big carve all the way around into the flats. Felt good but wished I had just kicked out because I took about 40 waves on the head trying to get back over that sandbar while going pretty much nowhere. Eventually acquiesced and paddled sideways towards the rip, out, and all the way around. Laughed with that one guy as he had just done exactly the same when I caught that one. 20 minutes of 8-9 second period nuisance paddling. All that paddling/duckdiving took the p*ss out of me since I had been out for about 2 hours already pretty much non-stop paddling, calves cramped up and all that. Blew what would have been a couple good last lefts purely from fatigue until got a decent left that went a ways and then ended with a big hack off closeout section and in with a pause to take leak #5 for the session.

Now off to take the family fishing.

 

[Aruka]

Wind was still blowing NW at 28kts at midnight last night so morning sickness was a given. Paddled out around 8 and was pleasantly surprised by how fun it looked while beach and water were desolate. Head high to a few feet overhead on sets. Nice to use that 6'7" roundpin as had to fight to get into the waves. Super low tide but the rip still generally held true and shorebreak was almost nonexistent. Alas, 2/3 of the way out, had to duckdive a wave that swung wide, would have been hairdry aside from that. Got some really fun lefts right off the bat with several halfway decent turns. Wind turned offshore around 9, which lasted about 45 minutes before turning right back to NW at 10+kts. Water heated up to about 51 or so, which felt balmy compared to last weekend.

The rights were kind of garbage but the lefts held up a long ways, enough to get at least a few sizable turns in, but would leave you right in the sandbar churn. Couple times I was able to fight over the top but as two other guys paddled out, got a left, which I ended with a big carve all the way around into the flats. Felt good but wished I had just kicked out because I took about 40 waves on the head trying to get back over that sandbar while going pretty much nowhere. Eventually acquiesced and paddled sideways towards the rip, out, and all the way around. Laughed with that one guy as he had just done exactly the same when I caught that one. 20 minutes of 8-9 second period nuisance paddling. All that paddling/duckdiving took the p*ss out of me since I had been out for about 2 hours already pretty much non-stop paddling, calves cramped up and all that. Blew what would have been a couple good last lefts purely from fatigue until got a decent left that went a ways and then ended with a big hack off closeout section and in with a pause to take leak #5 for the session.

Now off to take the family fishing.

Kento I like your session reports now that you have moved North and are suffering through closeouts and cold water. Very relatable.

Wind's haven't calmed down for a long time up here. Even in the middle of the night I can hear it whistling through the trees. Next week it looks like it might finally switch hopefully. In the mean time it's pretty much shut here.

 

[Northern_Shores]

Are you retards still doing this stupid hobby?

IT'S SPRING!!!!! TIME TO RUN AMONGST THE FLOWERS

 

[feralseppo]

A friend texted me his morning sirf report. Been like this for a while apparently and more on the way.

 

[Oceanslide]

Pretty meh and crazy crowded at a reef south, but I needed to surf somewhere else
and managed a few ok lefts on the HPTC twinzer mid-morning.
The older guy on the Rasta Wavestorm sprint-paddling past
people for set waves could eat a D.

 

[Kento]

Kento I like your session reports now that you have moved North and are suffering through closeouts and cold water. Very relatable.

Wind's haven't calmed down for a long time up here. Even in the middle of the night I can hear it whistling through the trees. Next week it looks like it might finally switch hopefully. In the mean time it's pretty much shut here.

Likewise!
1/4 mile paddle outs, relentless sets, wind, cold, not too many people, I love it.

Was laughing with my wife about the comparison in sessions. Down south, shoulder to head high was the norm for the most part, now up here, days like today where it's a few feet OH on the sets, that's a generally smaller day (in hindsight, this fall was crazy).

Wind was pretty chill this afternoon. Suspected bass subverted the 6 lb test and snatched our lures not once but twice. Bastards. Oh well, still having the pho with a bottle of red wine so not horrible day in the slightest. Hoping magicdreamweed is accurate with wind as might be fun with minus tide. Swell dropping and yes, looks like nuking winds all next week.

 

[Kento]

A friend texted me his morning sirf report. Been like this for a while apparently and more on the way.

View attachment 109667

Perpetually Perfect Ponto?

 

[oeste858]

Kento I like your session reports now that you have moved North and are suffering through closeouts and cold water. Very relatable.

Wind's haven't calmed down for a long time up here. Even in the middle of the night I can hear it whistling through the trees. Next week it looks like it might finally switch hopefully. In the mean time it's pretty much shut here.

Yet even without 2-a-day sessions, still no time for quiver shots from the climate-controlled, max security, fair trade, boar warehouse… show us what ya got, you tease!

 

[Kento]

Just one of those days. Didn't sleep well and felt cold/tired as soon as I got out of bed. And most of wetsuit was still wet while booties were bone dry. At least there was that. Wind was offshore, dozen or so people spread out across several different peaks. Smaller than yesterday, about shoulder to head high, maybe a foot overhead on some of the bigger ones. Could tell while checking it that it was going to be a frustrating sesh as a lot of waves were backing off and it was pretty short period windswell.

Paddled out anyways even though was just not feeling it and it was as frustrating as it looked like it would be. Was cleaner than yesterday but less swell, just not same amount of push. Surfed generally really poorly except for one left which held up nicely for a while and I got a few solid hacks on it before it petered out. That made it worth it but still, overall, was better than not surfing.

 

[000]

bullshit winds lately
but when its glassy:

 

[rowjimmytour]

Harvest buoy read NW 6' @17 seconds both days so drove to my favorite left reef and scored fun low tide peaky outside racy inside mostly lefts short rights. I rode my 6'9" It 2win had fun but felt stiff as hell even on a twin after not surfing for a while. The winds started off shore then moved side shore but kept the wave faces pretty clean at 8-12mph. I got lazy or was dszed or both and took a relaxing trip over the falls
Day 2 was about same size but reverse outside was peaky and kinda throwing on reef and inside was bowly and crumbling with many speed bumps from +12mph NW winds. I rode my 5'8" alpha omega "twin fever" and first wave peaky hh set already breaking turn and go annihilated on the drop hit a speed bump no chance trip over the bars. Still had fun going twin speed and hitting speed bumps. Felt great being out of control at speed and may be the last time until Fall

 

[sdsrfr]

I hate spring so fugging mucb.

i smurfed on Saturday out of desperation. I guess it counted. I did plenty of stink eyeing, anyways. laughed when the peak hog almost steam rolled a logger looking the other way. I guess that was redeeming especially bc i took the wave after and it was my ride of the day.

did I mention I hate spring?