***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***

[Tarab_ish]

Back on tues afternoon:
late afternoon surf on the solstice. holy sh!t it rocked. I had surfed the beach out front for the past few days in a row and it always seemed like it must be good: solid swell, storm wind offshores, there's gotta be a sandbar somewhere that's working. But Tues It finally did. On the north end of that beach, waves were just hitting one sandbar. It'd bowl hard before it broke then a left would peel for a bit, then the whole thing would push into deep water. Straight offshore but so much that there was bump coming up the face. 2-4 people on it the whole time. Really not user-friendly. Stomped a couple late drops to kickouts. Then the last wave as I was alone at twilight lined up along the whole sandbar. Basically outran it, I was under the barrel but not in it. Still felt like the best wave I've gotten this season.

Very vainly watched the surfline replay to see if I could find it, but the sandbar was just out of frame, could just see myself straightening out and proning in.

Looked at it today but it wasn't the same. Driving to S Cal tomorrow and I'll check some spots but not expecting much. Glad it actually connected for a 1 hr surf.

 

[Northern_Shores]

Then the last wave as I was alone at twilight lined up along the whole sandbar. Basically outran it, I was under the barrel but not in it. Still felt like the best wave I've gotten this season.

Very vainly watched the surfline replay to see if I could find it, but the sandbar was just out of frame, could just see myself straightening out and proning in.

Sucks to suck, retard!

I've been collecting tubers this whole autumn.

 

[Tarab_ish]

lmao

 

[silentbutdeadly]

sick pits.

got to sneak out before I leave town this morning. bigger than expected. Kinda bumpy but some gems out there. crowded but still got some on the sparkplug

 

[paunch23]

a few fun ones today. is nice when you're expecting it to be flat and there's actually a few waves...
)(apply Holidays

 

[Mr J]

Merry Christmas fellow surfboar enthusiasts. I hope you are getting barrels, walls and lips. I got some standups today in some of the purest windswell on the planet. 1.5' @ 5 seconds gulf of Thailand. On my 5' 4" 22.1L New Flyer tuflite super groveller. AM size medium blackstix in front. 3.75 quad rear which made me perfectly equipped. 27.4c water temperature which translated into erbb is 81.32 degrees.

 

[teeroi]

Paddled out to the NS regular on my Moonfish. Got there mid morning after my kid opened his gifts. No one out and it looked like there were some double ups.

Lots of north northeast do the current was going. Tried to stay inside but kept getting pulled out to sea. After a couple of waves a couple of guys paddled out but when the current is like that everyone gets spaced apart.

Made some double ups I thought for sure I was going to poke. Mostly just making it around sections looking for the inside barrel. Lots of work. Finished a wave in a bad spot and got caught in the tractor beam. That tired me out so I went in.

Happy holidays.

 

[Mr J]

Similar swell conditions to yesterday, offering a takeoff on waist high peaks and ride to the beach. A walk up the beach got me a better sandbank setup extending the length of the ride. Not enough shape for the tiger-superman and waitress elbow combos I have been taught, but there was one right where I was at least crouching into tiger and following with an abbreviated superman. Also one left where I was able to get a waitress bottom turn in being careful not to overpower and bog.

Its hard to imagine a better board for the gulf of Thailand than the epoxy New Flyer. Even on a shapeless wave I can bounce a merry path to the beach - stocked

As an aside I am getting bitten by sea lice. That's the only explanation I can come up with from the rash which appears several hours after surfing and seems to happen where my long sleeve rash vest contacts the skin on the chest, stomach, underarms and neck. Fortunately my wife brought her multi purpose itch/bite/rash remedy - a little bottle of peppermint oil. I'm avoiding surfing in the glare of mid-day and the Ocean and Earth surf bucket hat is working great with the mesh earflaps stopping my ear plugs from falling out.

 

[potato-nator]

another lovely day in Northeast North Carolina i mean SoJersey.
clean surf and loads of riders on it. Surf 3ft sets, clean air 55deg water 46.
and today everybody played nice.

 

[teeroi]

Dawned the NS regular. Similar to yesterday but a little better wind. Got a couple but the current was stronger. Tried to stay on the inside bowl but kept getting tractor beamed out. Felt like I was 5 feet too deep and outside for most of the really dredging double ups. Crowd was minor.

 

[Maz]

Happy Xmas, degenerates!

Visited the in laws on the east coast, overlooking the most fickle rivermouth ever. The area has some world class rivermouths, and some are reasonably consistent. Not this one; I've frothed going there after a big rain, but the bar disappeared in a few hours.

Yesterday I spotted some whitewater down there, but swell and wind was sh!t. Hit it this morning in perfect conditions but micro swell. Still, got thumping little super quick waves breaking almost on the shore in warm water and blazing morning sun. Novelty fun, but I'll take it.

Back in Raglan now, and it's flat. No fretting though, this is the west coast, and tomorrow another 16sec groundy looks set to hit.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

little wind window this morning but it was still pretty junky. got some fun ones though on the gx.

 

[Oceanslide]

Didn't expect to surf today or the rest of the week, but got out for a fairly fun, quick
sesh on the 9'3" HPTC. Felt great to be in the water!

 

[MathDebater]

Surfed early afternoon after a brutal weekend of driving (30 ish hours of seat time in two days). I was creaky and not feeling great so I went to an empty reef that had occasional sets. Most of the waves were only good for a single gut back or occasional off the top but the tide push started to line a few up and the wind wasn’t bad. I was having a ton of fun for the conditions till my back foot slipped off on a drop and I somehow booted a fin with the top of my foot and took a good chunk out. It was a lame ending and I’m really hoping I don’t need stitches (and to stay out of the water long).

 

[Maz]

Get well soon, bro!

 

[MathDebater]

I hope y’all have a hobbit foot fetish. A nice hematoma and skin tear but no stitches. Still get to be dry docked for two weeks. I’m sure the forecast is going to pick up any minute now.…

 

[oeste858]

WTF. Is that photoshopped? those are some of the hairiest feet I've seen this side of the Shire.
Sorry about the gash.

 

[MathDebater]

If only. I’ve got a full body fur coat.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

damn, no booties necessary!

 

[Maz]

It's even growing out from under your toenail!