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*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
drove down at dawn, head high+ mile wide closeouts and meaty round these parts. swell was growing in the time i was peeping it and you tell by the way it was jacking up and heaving it was really long period, ultimately opted out and went for a run insted - didnt look worth it, the guys giving it a go got nowhere. its going to be a wash round here for this swell. might head up to some points tomorrow.
didn't expect the swell to be here yet this morning. 22 sec walls with a couple opportunities. Current was gnarly and the sets started capping about an hour into the session. Some pretty good size. 6'2" crow but could have used the blackbeard.
The air and water were warm so I was boiling
The air and water were warm so I was boiling
Surfed the point for 30 -40 mins then got out and surfed the kook until a cramp sent me in.
kook was better than the point ,long big racy walls .Powerful 10-17 wave sets and a thin spread out crowd.
Good vibes! stay safe and get some.
kook was better than the point ,long big racy walls .Powerful 10-17 wave sets and a thin spread out crowd.
Good vibes! stay safe and get some.
Some beauties right when I pulled up to my favorite winter reef. I was right at the end of the good tide window but winds were still good so I sprinted out on my blackbird. There were a couple guys packing some pretty good barrels that I never quite figured out. But I did get a bunch of solid 6-8' runners, one good buttcack where all that rail felt guuuuuuud. Looking forward to tomorrow, I think it'll be even better. Current wasn't too bad, almost felt like I could be on something smaller to sit under the lip a bit more but I also liked moving around the line up so easily when the sets came.
Epic weekend at a beautiful So. Cen. Coast campground trading clean reef and beachbreak waves with my son. Scoring good clean surf at one of our favorite places was as good as it gets. Getting back to back sets with my son on Sunday AM was a highlight. I gotta say, it's really cool to see your kid not hesitate to flip it and go on some good ones. Almost post3ed this in the mental health thread as we came home in a great mood!
Great weekend!
Great weekend!
Padillacked into some good ones this morning. Shifty, powerful peaks. Talked a few buddies into joining me. One of them got flogged on his first wave and called it good. The other two stayed out and we had a great session. Took some good beatings but it was well worth it.
Evening time squeezed in a quicky at the same spot. Size had dropped a bit and tide was much higher so I took the 6-4 SMTH out. Took a while to figure out where to focus but near the end of the session I got into a good rhythm and snagged a series of fun ones. Loving this boar.
Evening time squeezed in a quicky at the same spot. Size had dropped a bit and tide was much higher so I took the 6-4 SMTH out. Took a while to figure out where to focus but near the end of the session I got into a good rhythm and snagged a series of fun ones. Loving this boar.
Nooks and crannies working yesterday. Scored some fun waves at a spot that usually needs less tide, but the swell was big enough to push through. Got a couple good ones, then a long lull hit. A set finally showed up and I was a little caught inside, but it ended up pushing me wide and the last wave of the set stood up right in front of me. Rode it to the beach and called it.
yesterday was better for me at the same spot. more dorks showed up today, earlier for more closeouts. didnt get half as much as yesterday. still a decent day of waves overall
Wasn't up for the beating at a certain SD spot. Drove around a bunch and found the surf to be about the third of the size. Settled on a reef I never surf. Head high, mushy, with tons of back paddling people that couldn't really surf.
Win some you lose some I guess.
Win some you lose some I guess.
Close-out city alone in South LA today, low tide. 3-5ft, maybe 6 on some sets. 6'8" Album Twinsman asym. Took a beating, caught a few, mostly backside (left). Really nice backside air-drop that I actually stuck and took off for a second before getting pounded. Felt good to stick the landing though. Paddled a lot to avoid getting pounded by larger sets. I can't wait to get this board in the right conditions.
Maiden voyage on the new El Tomo fish. Caught some speedy bombs between some jetties. Great board so far, easy to get into steeper waves. Clean HH+ on the sets and glassy. Looking forward to more this week.
Went to the same spot, rode the blackbird again. Felt like less push today but the size was more consistent with plenty of overhead sets, also much easier to catch waves - but that may have been me adapting to a new board. Much more crowded but mostly goobers when I first got out, followed by leashless groms who didn't last long but hassled a lot. After that it mellowed out. Got tons of waves, no proper barrel section today but some good turn sections. Can't believe how easy the BB is to turn at 7'. Got a ton of fun waves.
Also got my Banjo back from Roper's. Ready to ride my fish again.
Also got my Banjo back from Roper's. Ready to ride my fish again.
Cancelled yesterday, after watching all morning hard santa ana offshores, as I pulled in to lot, wind went from South. arggh, I was so hyped I just said f it and went back to wfh. This was after watching for 45 minutes. double arghh.
My wfh schedule has our daily standup at 10:30, I f'd up yesterday, I'm going out today. Down at the south Encinitas reef. Wind was a more normal super light North wind today, more better for the rights I was seeking. I think the waves were more powerful today. Caught a handful of doh steep and fast ones. Can't stand there, you need to drive to make it. Fun one was where I didn't yield the high line and scared some peeps that were unwilling to get out of the way. It's so fun when your top turn takes more than a millisecond to complete. Dude was looking at me and my board all funny. I make my own, with balsa wood skins, Vavoom Surf!. Anyways, I say to dude, that I make my own boards, we chatted for a minute, until I noticed I had drifted off the peak by 50 feet. Cut the convo short, paddle out to boil, promptly score uncontested set, SWEET. I was gonna let dude go uncontested too, he was so caught inside. hardy har har.
Funny chit: My bro (nightmare wavehog guy with red longboard) mentioned that lately good ones come in, but he doesn't go. I said it's because we're old and don't want to get worked. Big set comes in, over doh, we're way outside, he's up, He's looking at under the lip takeoff, I'm barking at him, "do it, do it". He catches it rides to beach. I catch next one ride to beach. I asked him about the wave, he said he was scared. I told him I was considering snaking him from behind. We both laughed. Great session!
My wfh schedule has our daily standup at 10:30, I f'd up yesterday, I'm going out today. Down at the south Encinitas reef. Wind was a more normal super light North wind today, more better for the rights I was seeking. I think the waves were more powerful today. Caught a handful of doh steep and fast ones. Can't stand there, you need to drive to make it. Fun one was where I didn't yield the high line and scared some peeps that were unwilling to get out of the way. It's so fun when your top turn takes more than a millisecond to complete. Dude was looking at me and my board all funny. I make my own, with balsa wood skins, Vavoom Surf!. Anyways, I say to dude, that I make my own boards, we chatted for a minute, until I noticed I had drifted off the peak by 50 feet. Cut the convo short, paddle out to boil, promptly score uncontested set, SWEET. I was gonna let dude go uncontested too, he was so caught inside. hardy har har.
Funny chit: My bro (nightmare wavehog guy with red longboard) mentioned that lately good ones come in, but he doesn't go. I said it's because we're old and don't want to get worked. Big set comes in, over doh, we're way outside, he's up, He's looking at under the lip takeoff, I'm barking at him, "do it, do it". He catches it rides to beach. I catch next one ride to beach. I asked him about the wave, he said he was scared. I told him I was considering snaking him from behind. We both laughed. Great session!
Yes sir. My go to quad set: Am large fronts, Ak4 rears.
I had an early twin and liked it but didn't love it.
When the quad version came out, it looked like it would go better.
Mega crispy morning conditions at the same town wave I've been surfing. Some overhead sets but mostly more in the chest high range. SMTH 5-11. Lotta lefts but lucked into a couple rights that were pretty nuggy. Amazing how much easier it is to surf actual clean waves! It's been so long I'd almost forgotten.
Evening sesh at my local. Got to ride my buddies nearly new 6-8 NPJ 2+1 channel bottom. He's not in love with it so far. I think it's too big for him but it felt great to me. Waves were mostly like waist high and clean but shifty. I was able to catch anything that moved and when I got to a steep section the thing felt like it had a ton of drive. New sensations. Very fun!
Evening sesh at my local. Got to ride my buddies nearly new 6-8 NPJ 2+1 channel bottom. He's not in love with it so far. I think it's too big for him but it felt great to me. Waves were mostly like waist high and clean but shifty. I was able to catch anything that moved and when I got to a steep section the thing felt like it had a ton of drive. New sensations. Very fun!
This x 5!!!
For some reason, I'm always thinking of the town in Goonies for Aruka's posts.
Took the pm offa yesterday and got some amazingly uncrowded classic right point west of town.....butter smooth ear high 200 yard peelers.
