I know back in the day if you even thought about dropping in on Kirk you’d get sent it and prob not be welcome back again.
I also remember uncle rick (kirks friend) scaring dudes and breaking a guys fin once for lipping.
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*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
I also remember uncle rick (kirks friend) scaring dudes and breaking a guys fin once for lipping.
"We talked about the old days. When you would get an earful and or cracks if you did something to **** off an older local. And if you cried to your dad he would ask what did you do? Then you’d get a crack from him too."
Early 60's in Santa Cruz you would be thrown off the cliff
Early 60's in Santa Cruz you would be thrown off the cliff
SC must’ve been a cool place back in the day. Went there now and it was kind of sad.
Kind of like Kailua
Top salesman! Theres definitely something to this. The lineup knowledge, wave etiquette, and humility learned as a grom from older locals- even by osmosis or proximity- is lacking as an adult learner/transplant. I used to see heavy stuff in the lineups, but now people would get sued for assault, and all you get is some jawing and splashing from the now-older locals if someone is kooking it up. The reality is these reefs are dangerous without rules and there's a lot more collisions from drop-ins nowadays.
I think some people are just assholes. I include some long time locals I know in that classification. Some people I know just can't let a wave go by. It's like they never learned to share.
Yes it was great, small community of surfers
So was Sunset Point when I moved there
Both "Progressed" after ;-)
Overhead rights at a reef that's been kelped in for the past two years. I think the sea urchin population is back and they've cleaned it up for us. There was a little surface bump on it when we paddled and I figured it would be a short session before it got completely blown out but the winds stayed mellow and then eventually died off completely, leaving the ocean oil-slick glassy. The overcast skies broke and the sun came out right as the tide hit that sweet spot and for a couple glorious hours it all really came together. The 6-6 Album Twinny was feeling buttery and there was nothing I would have rather been riding. There were a few long lulls but then the sets would flurry. Some of the wide set waves were really good and the bros kept being a little too deep to get them but I was often able to scratch over on the longer board and snag the corner. After about 3 hours I was so tired and hungry and kept telling myself I was going to go in but each time I kicked out of a wave I would start paddling back to the lineup before I remembered what I had meant to do. Eventually the tide started to get too low and I bagged it. Got a fun one in and then watched it go completely to crap while the last two guys struggled to get anything decent to come in on. One of the better sessions I've had at this wave which is usually more of a mid-winter affair.
The problem is you can't out asshole these people all day every day. We have a group thread of about 15 people and we all together work on people like this. It's like a part time job.
You really see a lot of it on social media comments. Someone lived here for 2-5 years and says, "People in Hawaii are idiots, racist, stupid, dumbasses, etc."
It is kind of interesting to watch.
I know some people that are hated and considered gigantic assholes but yet they are completely oblivious to everyone. I surf with a few of them. No one likes them and they're a danger to everyone in the water. But, no matter how many times someone tells these people to fuck off they just keep on keeping on and show no remorse.
Dawned Bowls. Compared to the forecast it was a letdown. But....the waves were really good when they came in. Pretty slow. Around head high, glassy, peeling. Got a couple that just drained but was too small to tuck in. I’d have to do the lean forward double rail grab on my frontside. I could get into that position but no way I could stAnd back up if I made a barrel. So mostly just flew thru those sections and did a roundhouse. On one of those thought I saw Mitch from HIC paddling out so I did a high speed figure 8 cutback to whitewater off the lip rebound. It wasn’t him. I told my friend Eddy I wasted my best turn showing off to a guy didn’t even know. Haha.
At one point we were waiting for waves for a long time. This guy Eric paddles out on his longboard. He’s an older guy that I’ve had words with just a few months ago. He asked how the waves were? I told him they’re too good for you. He says yeah Ken said there’s long waits. After ten minutes a bump comes in and I start paddling for it but Eric goes from outside. I would’ve burned him but he was pretty close When he paddled back out I gave it to him. Told him we've been waiting forever for a set and you go on the first good one and don’t even make it. He tells me I said thanks for the wave. I told him you've been getting too comfortable taking advantage of how nice we've been to you. I’m going to bring a sh*tty board and burn you every wave next time I see you. He stayed away from me after that and got a couple of small ones and went in. The rest of the lineup were grateful.
At one point we were waiting for waves for a long time. This guy Eric paddles out on his longboard. He’s an older guy that I’ve had words with just a few months ago. He asked how the waves were? I told him they’re too good for you. He says yeah Ken said there’s long waits. After ten minutes a bump comes in and I start paddling for it but Eric goes from outside. I would’ve burned him but he was pretty close When he paddled back out I gave it to him. Told him we've been waiting forever for a set and you go on the first good one and don’t even make it. He tells me I said thanks for the wave. I told him you've been getting too comfortable taking advantage of how nice we've been to you. I’m going to bring a sh*tty board and burn you every wave next time I see you. He stayed away from me after that and got a couple of small ones and went in. The rest of the lineup were grateful.
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I’m pretty good at telling people how sh*tty they surf and how sh*tty they’re manners are at a high volume so everyone can hear. It warms my heart when the younger crew does it to the offending donkeys.
How oblivious can someone be???
Just paddle out on a longboard and take the first set wave everyone’s been waiting for.
Just paddle out on a longboard and take the first set wave everyone’s been waiting for.
It's terrible. Especially at spots where the paddle out in closest to the peak and the guys who have been waiting the longest are down a ways. The shitty people paddle out right on top and are like "ok, my turn," whereas the polite and respectful people paddle out around the pack and go to their rightful place in line.
Unfortunately, most people these days choose the shitty behavior.
I'm officially 40. I hurt my back taking off my wetsuit this morning
Conditions would have been fun if there were 1/4 of the people on it. I forgot how much more crowded Dawn Patrol is compared to Gentleman's Hour
Conditions would have been fun if there were 1/4 of the people on it. I forgot how much more crowded Dawn Patrol is compared to Gentleman's Hour
Zoo fest this morning. Groms are out in full force since they don't have school. One little grom tried to spin and go when I was already going on the wave. Straight up stuffed him. I have no patience for groms that didn't learn respect.
9 AM weekday is the best time if you can swing it.