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*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
Yeti mug was keeping that mojo warm havoc!
TBH, I landed on my face over the weekend and have a nasty scab on my lip that I would like to heal so I don't look like this. This was my way of getting in the water without getting it wet.
TBH, I landed on my face over the weekend and have a nasty scab on my lip that I would like to heal so I don't look like this. This was my way of getting in the water without getting it wet.
Dawned Bowls. Checked the cam yesterday and it looked head high. Of course when I got there all my friends were telling me the classic should’ve been here yesterday. To get them back as soon as I paddled out I paddled into the first set that rolled in. Jerome was trying to hoho me off but I yelled you just got a right. They were trying to f*ck with me for my bad manners since they beat me out, but it put 3 of them out of position for the next 3 waves in the set. I was screaming at them as I was paddling out what’s wrong with that one, what’s wrong with that one, what’s wrong with that one, all unridden Hahaha.
Rode the twin and got a couple of roll in to straight up tags on some close outs. Kinda soft but fun and tons of sh*t talking and inappropriate jokes.
Rode the twin and got a couple of roll in to straight up tags on some close outs. Kinda soft but fun and tons of sh*t talking and inappropriate jokes.
They saw your rinsekit and knew you were not to be trifled with.
Wife got me one for Xmas and finally tried it like a month later. Biggest size she could find and still def not meant for someone 6’3”. Felt like I was flashing when I bent down to pull the suit off. BUT, my kids f’ing love it and it makes their wetsuit on/off less of a haggle
while I deal with their gear. Win!
Odd small and walled surf on the Slot Noserider at dawn, but got 3-4 decent little
runners after I stopped bleeding from smashing my forehead into the corner of the hatch of the car. Dumbass.
Fuckit, sacking off work tomorrow, getting my pest on, and hassling the other million sweet and delicious bag of skittles out at Noosa.
just returned from a really fun longboard session, was sunny today and not much wind with small peaks that kept coming in and my friend too tall and I just split the peak for an hour and a half, finally joined by a couple people, fun and long waves for how small it was, the snail tracks on the bottom of my longboard were fresh since i haven't used the l.b. for a while so i was operating at maximum slime speed. caught a ton of waves and was smiling the whole time....
honestly I used to hassle my buddy about the pancho thing but then I got one.
it's pretty nice when you've just finished surfing in mid 40's water, the air is in the 30's and it's windy and/or raining.
this morning was more of the same, waist-to-chest high rights. little more crowded but I got plenty. there was waves again in the evening but my back was feeling stiff and I just had no energy or desire to surf. must be getting old.
Small and inconsistent but got a couple fun running lefts that made it worth the hike. Overcast with a chilling sea breeze. My toes went numb after an hour so. Drove a little further South after my session just to check some sand bars and realized I'd probably surfed the wrong spot. Oh well. Went home and planted fruit trees in the rain. Tomorrow it's supposed to get big again and with favorable winds. It's also valentines day. GF says I can surf as long as I cook her some crab for dinner. Deal.
surged with retodd at oceanside harbor of the north. fun soft peaks shadow gravels well. so stoked frens
Got a chance to get some waves this Wednesday past.
1 Surfed overhead waves with Friend #1
2 Reef break lefts, occasional spooky right
3 Winds not so bad, I mean, onshore but gentle onshore
4 Mix of new swell and old decaying swell and windchop
5 At one point, for about 1/2 hr, it was just three people!
6 Got caught inside where the wave usually gets hollow and found it is only chest deep at that boil
7 Older surfer later tells me "That is where I broke my back a few years ago."
8 Got cleaned up a few times...wasn't paying attention to the current
9 Was not on my game, feeling effects from the headcold I had. Actually a day later, think the sea water helped flush my sinuses. So not a lot of good rides, more than the usual biffs.
10 Getting dressed at the car, older woman comes by to ask, "Did you see that Patrick Swayzie surf movie? Did they film any of it here?" "Ummm, I don't think they filmed any of it here."
1 Surfed overhead waves with Friend #1
2 Reef break lefts, occasional spooky right
3 Winds not so bad, I mean, onshore but gentle onshore
4 Mix of new swell and old decaying swell and windchop
5 At one point, for about 1/2 hr, it was just three people!
6 Got caught inside where the wave usually gets hollow and found it is only chest deep at that boil
7 Older surfer later tells me "That is where I broke my back a few years ago."
8 Got cleaned up a few times...wasn't paying attention to the current
9 Was not on my game, feeling effects from the headcold I had. Actually a day later, think the sea water helped flush my sinuses. So not a lot of good rides, more than the usual biffs.
10 Getting dressed at the car, older woman comes by to ask, "Did you see that Patrick Swayzie surf movie? Did they film any of it here?" "Ummm, I don't think they filmed any of it here."
Good times with Havoc . Prolly the best I have seen him surf in his Backhand
I only got a few but the few I got sure were fun . Mason up style floater on a left and right that held up for 3 snaps on da shoulder .
I only got a few but the few I got sure were fun . Mason up style floater on a left and right that held up for 3 snaps on da shoulder .
Fun waves this eve at the local. New swell filled in quickly. Lots of paddling to hold position on the peak. There were some legit good ones if you were in the right spot which wasn't easy.
Surfing a thruster in overhead rights makes me happy.
Surfing a thruster in overhead rights makes me happy.