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Learning to surf as an adult...

casa_mugrienta

casa_mugrienta

Duke status
Apr 13, 2008
43,808
18,363
113
Petak Island
Every young professional from Boston, Chicago, etc:

www.instagram.com

The Greenroom Times on Instagram: "Like the wise surfer in Point Break said, “Go back to the valley man!” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . #thegreenroomtimes #surf #surfing #waves #instasurf #surfinglife #fakenews #wsl #greenroomtimes"

6,558 likes, 265 comments - thegreenroomtimesOctober 19, 2023 on : "Like the wise surfer in Point Break said, “Go back to the valley man!” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . #thegreenroomtimes #surf #surf..."
www.instagram.com www.instagram.com
 
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Reactions: frontsidegrab, keenfish, Havoc and 1 other person
sdsrfr

sdsrfr

Phil Edwards status
Jul 13, 2020
5,998
11,512
113
San Diego
casa_mugrienta said:
Every young professional from Boston, Chicago, etc:

www.instagram.com

The Greenroom Times on Instagram: "Like the wise surfer in Point Break said, “Go back to the valley man!” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . #thegreenroomtimes #surf #surfing #waves #instasurf #surfinglife #fakenews #wsl #greenroomtimes"

6,558 likes, 265 comments - thegreenroomtimesOctober 19, 2023 on : "Like the wise surfer in Point Break said, “Go back to the valley man!” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . #thegreenroomtimes #surf #surf..."
www.instagram.com www.instagram.com
Click to expand...
Especially true when its an otherwise empty lineup and they want to tell you their life story leading to becoming a surfer.
 
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Reactions: ghostshaper, kawika and Havoc
casa_mugrienta

casa_mugrienta

Duke status
Apr 13, 2008
43,808
18,363
113
Petak Island
Belchfire1 said:
I started surfing at 24, its been over 20 years now.

It took persistence.

#lifetimebeginner

But, I get a few good ones from time to time.
Click to expand...
I have a friend who learned around then, but he was already a next level skier so I'm sure that helped. Gets authentically stocked. Met a Brazilian guy who learned at 30 too, and ripped with style.

You guys are the exception to the rule, and the exception to the above spiritual quest.
 
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L

Lahdiwave

Oct 19, 2022
25
15
3
You have to be in way better shape than you think. Either that... or you are just not in as good a of shape as you think :drowning:
 
S

Sharkbiscuit

Duke status
Aug 6, 2003
26,766
19,712
113
Jacksonville Beach
Breaking: Surf fans lighting candles for Kelly Slater and Giselle Bundchen to get back together, for Toledo to win a heat in Tahiti without getting low 8s for two decidedly mid top turns, and for the soft top VALs who committed soft top VALry on casa moogsies's set wave(s) this last swell to have their wave storms fly off their tesla's roof and get split in half by an ornery CHP officer's car, prior to receiving hefty fines.


More as the story develops.
 
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Reactions: Havoc
92122

92122

Michael Peterson status
Jul 29, 2015
2,627
1,064
113
I started surfing in my 30's. I still suck more than 10-years later.
 
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Reactions: ReForest
sussle

sussle

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Oct 11, 2009
8,437
7,827
113
Belchfire1 said:
I started surfing at 24, its been over 20 years now.

It took persistence.

#lifetimebeginner

But, I get a few good ones from time to time.
Click to expand...
it's hard. i've seen a fewe neighbors give it a go over the years and only one is still surfing, and not all that well. adults can't usually take the necesssary beating - you know, you have to fall 10,000 times to learn how to surf etc etc. I have a lot of respect for any adult that gives it a go - it ain't easy and failure is the likely option. :shameonyou:

one of my neighbors - a 40-something woman - was watching the surf during the Hurricane Franklin swell earlier this year. i know she has surfed (or tried to, before) so I was like "yeah! go for it!" Never dreamed she'd actually paddle out on a longboard into head-high surf at low tide (I figured she had a foamie), but she did and got whacked in the face pretty hard and ended up in the ER. When i saw her face, I felt quite bad that I had encouraged her.:foreheadslap:
 
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Reactions: Your Moms Dildo and keenfish
ElOgro

ElOgro

Duke status
Dec 3, 2010
32,307
12,317
113
CutnSnip said:
30 years in, still learning every session and figureing out ways to combat the o.l.d.
Click to expand...
With limited exceptions, a competent surfer is one that has achieved his/her skill level over time, and is comfortable without seething into a situation out of their capability.

There’s a certain distraction when not in motion that is replaced with the oncoming adrenaline rush towards peaking when you’re absorbed by “the moment” as our friend @sponge has said and demonstrated thousands of times. Of course the conditions dictate the dopamine charge, the stock. The pucker factor. That’s the attraction.
 
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ElOgro

ElOgro

Duke status
Dec 3, 2010
32,307
12,317
113
menobrah said:
Benjamin Buttons syndrome...as we age out our surfing regresses back to beginner stage usually with the boards to match...til one day no mas..
Click to expand...
I have friends here between their early and late 60’s that are well competent for the surf we get here. And the younger generations here just don’t have the time in space one achieves through simple repetition in their formative

Also @flyinraptr:waving: living in his second childhood.

It’s not as inspirational to keep up when it’s cold and inconsistent and you are limited to when you can go and the stock is replaced by family/business/other stuff.

That’s 3/4 of the people here at head high and under.
 
Oceanslide

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,708
2,351
113
Oceanside, CA
ElOgro said:
With limited exceptions, a competent surfer is one that has achieved his/her skill level over time, and is comfortable without seething into a situation out of their capability.

There’s a certain distraction when not in motion that is replaced with the oncoming adrenaline rush towards peaking when you’re absorbed by “the moment” as our friend @sponge has said and demonstrated thousands of times. Of course the conditions dictate the dopamine charge, the stock. The pucker factor. That’s the attraction.
Click to expand...
You must be on a GOOD one, amigo!
Hugs!

As for me, due to lack of surf time, some of which is due to life stuff, some due to me not making the effort, I feel like a KOOK lately. Every once in a while though, it clicks, and I actually know how to surfboard. I need to surf more.
 
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Reactions: Belchfire1, ReForest, Your Moms Dildo and 2 others
M

McHatin

Nep status
Apr 11, 2010
858
316
63
Truth said:
covid spawned a whole new crew of middle aged surfers clogging the line ups all around the world
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They thought that just because they had all the free time and mindset, they were going to come out of the pandemic absolutely ripping.

Little did they know that they started 30-40 years too late in life.
 
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