Learning to surf as an adult...

[Duffy LaCoronilla]

The thing I hear from adult learners is this…

…”I want to be a surfer.”

Wrong attitude.

Better to “want to go surfing.”

Surfing is an activity, Surfer is an identity that doesn’t actually require an ability to surf competently.

In other words, many adult learners want to have other people perceive them as “surfers”.

 

[laidback]

It's funny how surfing kind of makes you delay being an adult.

I'm 62 and I still act like a child.

Maybe this year?

You started 40 years too late

 

[Random Guy]

I started when I was around 33 or 34
been at it a long time
wish I’d started younger, but despite all the hate for the adult learners I’m very glad I didn’t give up

 

[Autoprax]

It ruined my life.

I could only travel if it's a surf trip. After the surf, I wasn't going shopping or to the Mexican dance show

It made all my ex's crazy.

 

[hammies]

My friends all started surfing in Jr. High. I started standing up in the 10th grade. Compared to them I was a kook, and they reminded me of this constantly.

 

[Sharky]

It ruined my life.

I coulda been somebody...

 

[TeamScam]

Must find a way to enjoy returning to the womb of surfing. A long humbling ride, but did more paddling than riding anyway. I'm still pretty good at that, too.

 

[Duffy LaCoronilla]

I started when I was around 33 or 34
been at it a long time
wish I’d started younger, but despite all the hate for the adult learners I’m very glad I didn’t give up

I thought you were barely out of high school, mid 20s max.

 

[estreet]

covid spawned a whole new crew of middle aged surfers clogging the line ups all around the world

I thought it would drop off but it seems like there’s more, of all ages, than ever these days.

 

[Subway]

Long Beach “seems” to have settled down by about 5 to 10 percent. Still more crowded on decent days than it was in the 20-teens, but not quite as bad as 21 and 22. I think the cold and fickle nature of surfing in the NE probably whittled down some of the Covid learners

just last week I had a 90 minute session all alone, at a popular and well known jetty, on a Sunday, during a telegraphed swell event. There were some other guys scattered on the various peaks to the east and west, but, a year ago I would have been elbow to elbow

 

[manbearpig]

Long Beach “seems” to have settled down by about 5 to 10 percent. Still more crowded on decent days than it was in the 20-teens, but not quite as bad as 21 and 22. I think the cold and fickle nature of surfing in the NE probably whittled down some of the Covid learners

just last week I had a 90 minute session all alone, at a popular and well known jetty, on a Sunday, during a telegraphed swell event. There were some other guys scattered on the various peaks to the east and west, but, a year ago I would have been elbow to elbow

Everyone seems to be flocking to the sh!t show at Lido. Towns been super quiet but I also feel the sand hasn’t been good in awhile.

 

[Subway]

That’s probably part of it. The sand at “my” jetty has only really improved in the last couple months

but that little solo session- it was way better than Lido, which bodes well for winter

 

[ReForest]

I started surfing at 31.
Surfing has a verrrrry hard learning curve. But as @ElOgro said, the adrenaline rush and dopamine charge is the never ending attraction to keep coming back!

 

[manbearpig]

That’s probably part of it. The sand at “my” jetty has only really improved in the last couple months

but that little solo session- it was way better than Lido, which bodes well for winter

As good of a wave as lido can be, they can have it. That place has become a haven for clout chasers. It’s turned into a pretty lame spot in my opinion.

 

[Subway]

I agree. Usually not worth the hassle. Every session I had there during our tropical run probably would have been better in town.

 

[Random Guy]

As good of a wave as lido can be, they can have it. That place has become a haven for clout chasers. It’s turned into a pretty lame spot in my opinion.

Meanwhile, years ago, in town had better waves, more crowds, and more “locals”. I went to lido to escape the crowds and attitude, and kind of liked the anonymity.

Sure as hell not the case anymore

 

[manbearpig]

Meanwhile, years ago, in town had better waves, more crowds, and more “locals”. I went to lido to escape the crowds and attitude, and kind of liked the anonymity.

Sure as hell not the case anymore

Exactly, and all the locals that used to keep the place tame just add to the zoo at L in many ways. I can rant on this for awhile.

 

[freeride76]

Absolutely tripping if you think surfing "ruined your life"

get a fcuking grip.

Being born in Gaza ruins your life.

If you had the chance to surf you're one of the most privileged homo sapiens to ever exist.
If you managed to couple that with ear ing an income, raising a family, being a citizen then you hit the jackpot, big-time.

 

[freeride76]

It's funny how surfing kind of makes you delay being an adult.

I'm 62 and I still act like a child.

Maybe this year?

Common myth.

Golfers, fishermen, artists of any description are equally or way worse.

Arrested development is just a side effect of growing up in a wealthy western country with calorie surplus.

Doesn't matter what your hobby is.

Surfing is not special or in any way unique in this regard.

 

[freeride76]

If you learned to surf as a kid then you are even luckier, because you had the chance to develop a skill set before adult responsibilities kicked in.

I feel sorry for adult learners who will never be able to develop that skill set, no matter how hard they try.