knife sharpener

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,297
23,573
113
PNW
First, what @wedge2 said.
Second, I’ve seen that done with white glue and sawdust. Since it will be varnished to seal later that might be easier than jacking around with epoxy.
2nd the wood glue over epoxy. Even though it will be sealed later I would use a good waterproof glue like titebond III. Add glue to sawdust slowly and mix into a paste. Try to get like a peanut butter consistency, not too wet. Do a little test spot or two to see how it behaves before going whole hog.

As for the caulk lines I kind of like the block plane idea if the caulk is rock hard (giggity). It always depends on the consistency which tool will work best. If the stuff is at all gummy it will clog up the mouth of the plane.

If you wanna spend a few bucks get a good battery powered multi tool and a sealant remover blade. That seems like by far the easiest option and those tools are useful for many other things.
 

plasticbertrand

Duke status
Jan 12, 2009
21,803
14,627
113
As for the caulk lines I kind of like the block plane idea if the caulk is rock hard (giggity). It always depends on the consistency which tool will work best. If the stuff is at all gummy it will clog up the mouth of the plane.

If you wanna spend a few bucks get a good battery powered multi tool and a sealant remover blade. That seems like by far the easiest option and those tools are useful for many other things.
The caulk is very soft, not like silicone, more like rubber.

I tried multiple tools and a charp chisel works but because the teak is so uneven, it still digs into the wood. On top of that the caulking is sticking out randomly in places so doing it with a planer I think would not work, or it would dig too far into the teak in places.
Preserving teak is #1 priority right now because once you're under certain thickness, the whole deck is not maintainable anymore. Shipyards say they draw the line at 3/8". That's around 10mm, I started with 14mm and I probably lost 3-4 already due to the sun exposure over 12 years.

So I did a little test run with the anchor locker hatch, chiseled the caulk as close as I could then went over with 80 grit. It feels really good under foot.
I think I may have to start with 60grit in places but overall Im pretty happy with the result.

IMG_7808.jpeg
 

ElOgro

Duke status
Dec 3, 2010
32,524
12,689
113
The caulk is very soft, not like silicone, more like rubber.

I tried multiple tools and a charp chisel works but because the teak is so uneven, it still digs into the wood. On top of that the caulking is sticking out randomly in places so doing it with a planer I think would not work, or it would dig too far into the teak in places.
Preserving teak is #1 priority right now because once you're under certain thickness, the whole deck is not maintainable anymore. Shipyards say they draw the line at 3/8". That's around 10mm, I started with 14mm and I probably lost 3-4 already due to the sun exposure over 12 years.

So I did a little test run with the anchor locker hatch, chiseled the caulk as close as I could then went over with 80 grit. It feels really good under foot.
I think I may have to start with 60grit in places but overall Im pretty happy with the result.

View attachment 162480
Big project. Happy sanding!
 

Bud

Nep status
Apr 20, 2001
910
792
93
Oahu
www.808surfer.com
flap sanding wheels sand on the outer edge (not to be confused with flap sanding disc) maybe you could find one narrow enough to fit in the joints. maybe find a way to strap your drill to an old skateborad or make something like a small dolly

 

$kully

Duke status
Feb 27, 2009
60,492
17,429
113
The caulk is very soft, not like silicone, more like rubber.

I tried multiple tools and a charp chisel works but because the teak is so uneven, it still digs into the wood. On top of that the caulking is sticking out randomly in places so doing it with a planer I think would not work, or it would dig too far into the teak in places.
Preserving teak is #1 priority right now because once you're under certain thickness, the whole deck is not maintainable anymore. Shipyards say they draw the line at 3/8". That's around 10mm, I started with 14mm and I probably lost 3-4 already due to the sun exposure over 12 years.

So I did a little test run with the anchor locker hatch, chiseled the caulk as close as I could then went over with 80 grit. It feels really good under foot.
I think I may have to start with 60grit in places but overall Im pretty happy with the result.

View attachment 162480
nobody likes soft caulk :monkey: