In a normal, real life session, nobody wants to risk trashing their board or seriously hurting another surfer. Not everybody has a spare board waiting in the channel or on the beach. There's often talk of competition raising the bar, improving the sport, etc. Is it raising the bar to sacrifice your board or run someone over?
Do you maximize your points for a ride and force the issue or surf as though Duke was speaking to you when he said "take your time-wave comes, let the other guy go"
Or, Ross Williams: "...we had Zeke sharking around, trying to get into Jack's head, doing, you know, ...what he does. Then he accidentally runs you over"
Do you maximize your points for a ride and force the issue or surf as though Duke was speaking to you when he said "take your time-wave comes, let the other guy go"
Or, Ross Williams: "...we had Zeke sharking around, trying to get into Jack's head, doing, you know, ...what he does. Then he accidentally runs you over"
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