HPSB 2034

Duffy LaCoronilla

Duke status
Apr 27, 2016
39,403
29,226
113
There really isn't much left to improve. Perhaps some computer and carbon fiber means to better harness and control flex and twist factors. We can already make boards so light that they become too light. Perhaps some sort of light, strong and consistent blank material or molding process so boards can be super repeatable and become more dialed in. Robotic shaping machines again to get the boards super consistent and make super fine adjustments on custom boards possible without the human touch.

More than anything today, we need better surfers. The boards are great but the average surfer SUCKS more than ever. The average surfer today doesn't even try high performance equipment. I would have been fucking embarrassed to ride a longboard, midlength or foamy in my teens 20s or 30s. Would have gotten laughed out of the water and shut out at the peak. Not today's surfers. Bunch of fukking donkeys clogging up the lineup using lots of extra foam to boost wave counts and mask their total lack of ability.
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Duffy LaCoronilla

Duke status
Apr 27, 2016
39,403
29,226
113
Gravity powered hydraulic ram jet.

Speed is where the innovation in performance will originate.

Foam climbs at pipeline.
 

Duffy LaCoronilla

Duke status
Apr 27, 2016
39,403
29,226
113
If you're not over 50 I'm embarrassed for you.
I’m 53. My daily drivers include a 5’6, 5’9, 5’11, 6’0.

I ride a 6’3 ghost.

When it’s crowded I ride 6’6 Townsend. Or a 7’2 Townsend. I recently fucked the crowd at a localized local beach/reef break on a fun wind swell with a 7’4 Vbowls. Those 20 year old rippers were pissed but didn’t say a damn thing about it.

Ride everything.
 

Duffy LaCoronilla

Duke status
Apr 27, 2016
39,403
29,226
113
so much variety here. if you know, you can get away from people. Yet, people surf places like swamis. insane.

I mean yeah, keep surfing swamis people!
Ive been amazed over the years at some of the uncrowned and very good waves I’ve gotten down there - all within a clear view of massive crowds.

Last time I surfed down there I paddled out at windansea and ended surfing a spot adjacent that apparently is not windansea - all by myself.
 

Duffy LaCoronilla

Duke status
Apr 27, 2016
39,403
29,226
113
yep. nuff said

but I guess the same can be said with your zone
There are spots that just don’t really get surfed. Fewer and fewer of them as time goes on. There’s still one spot I’ve been surfing essentially alone my entire life. Doesn’t break often but when it does it goes off. It’s not even hidden. And when other people do occasionally show up they don’t even surf THE spot.

Trips me out.
 
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casa_mugrienta

Duke status
Apr 13, 2008
43,843
18,416
113
Petak Island
Yet, people surf places like swamis. insane.
Not really.

I get out there a couple times a month in season and I get waves.

Right time, right expectations, and knowing where to sit.

Put in a little time and you start to get the rhythm of when the dipshits are in the water and you just avoid those times and days.