Hawaii- Done

racer1

Tom Curren status
Apr 16, 2014
12,966
15,053
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Honolulu, Hawaii
The contests used to benefit local aspiring surfers by allowing many Pipe wildcards and Haleiwa / Sunset allowing many local entries, but with only one contest now for QS surfers (Haleiwa challenger - if you qualify), and Pipe only allowing 2 local wildcards (no more trials or 16 wildcards like before), is it worth all the hassle?

I love the North Shore, but I'd never live up there. All the redeeming qualities (solitude, good waves, quietness, slow pace) are either gone or being threatened by how fcking crowded it is.
 
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LifeOnMars

Michael Peterson status
Jan 14, 2020
3,164
2,106
113
I love the North Shore, but I'd never live up there. All the redeeming qualities (solitude, good waves, quietness, slow pace) are either gone or being threatened by how fcking crowded it is.
Lived up the hill from Foodland for a bit and on Waialua side

It sucks, only benefit is being able to rest at home in between sessions.

Town is better by a long shot and it's no comparison, so much more on offer outside the water
 
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Muscles

Michael Peterson status
Jun 1, 2013
2,599
3,607
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California/Hawaii
I hate going to the north shore. It is just too crowded at this point. Loved it as a kid but literally nothing about it is fun in its current state. The surf is always crowded and almost as bad as California IRT etiquette.
 
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JSC

Nep status
Mar 11, 2008
668
547
93
"Country" is a state of mind, not an actual place.

If you want real "country", move to one of the out islands in The Philippines, Indonesia, Tonga or Fiji.

Plenty of peace and quiet, world-class surf in some places.

No jobs, no investment, lots of religion, plenty of local corruption and nothing to do.
 

bluemarlin04

Michael Peterson status
Aug 13, 2015
2,565
2,383
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"Country" is a state of mind, not an actual place.

If you want real "country", move to one of the out islands in The Philippines, Indonesia, Tonga or Fiji.

Plenty of peace and quiet, world-class surf in some places.

No jobs, no investment, lots of religion, plenty of local corruption and nothing to do.
I disagree with you on Hawaii being done but you are spot on here.

But places like north shore and Southern California are just too crowded. no idea how people deal with it
 

SurfFuerteventura

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Sep 20, 2014
8,447
4,634
113
Ribbit
"Country" is a state of mind, not an actual place.

If you want real "country", move to one of the out islands in The Philippines, Indonesia, Tonga or Fiji.

Plenty of peace and quiet, world-class surf in some places.

No jobs, no investment, lots of religion, plenty of local corruption and nothing to do.
Surf great waves alone, live peacefully vs living in a madhouse area where you can enjoy being price gouged and surf with 60 other regulars, regularly?

I know which one I'd pick in a red hot second.
 

bluemarlin04

Michael Peterson status
Aug 13, 2015
2,565
2,383
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Surf great waves alone, live peacefully vs living in a madhouse area where you can enjoy being price gouged and surf with 60 other regulars, regularly?

I know which one I'd pick in a red hot second.
Depends. Can’t really just go live in a 3rd world country.

plus I like my pakalolo and most places mentioned don’t have friendly laws or access to good grade weed legally. I’m too old to be doing it illegally even if it’s just weed.
 

JSC

Nep status
Mar 11, 2008
668
547
93
"Country" is a state of mind, not an actual place.

If you want real "country", move to one of the out islands in The Philippines, Indonesia, Tonga or Fiji.

Plenty of peace and quiet, world-class surf in some places.

No jobs, no investment, lots of religion, plenty of local corruption and nothing to do.
Country has become un-Country because Hawaii is part of the United States, a successful country where great wealth is generated; albeit unequally, and society expands as a result of this frankly incredible ability of the US economy to generate wealth.

Other places - country remains "country" for generation after generation, with little change other than effective depopulation as towns and villages have many empty houses and lots of little kids and old people.

In places like Michoacán in México, Samar Island in The Philippines and Sicily, almost everyone over the age of 16 and under the age of 60 has left, to find a job and earn a living in the nearest major city or neighbouring country.

Be careful what you wish for.
 

SurfFuerteventura

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Sep 20, 2014
8,447
4,634
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Ribbit
Depends. Can’t really just go live in a 3rd world country.

plus I like my pakalolo and most places mentioned don’t have friendly laws or access to good grade weed legally. I’m too old to be doing it illegally even if it’s just weed.
Plenty of 1st world places with surfable waves, in countries that could give a rats arse aboot your weed.

Might not be as warm as Hawaii, but places do exist.

:waving::shaka::censored:
 

SurfFuerteventura

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Sep 20, 2014
8,447
4,634
113
Ribbit
Country has become un-Country because Hawaii is part of the United States, a successful country where great wealth is generated; albeit unequally, and society expands as a result of this frankly incredible ability of the US economy to generate wealth.

Other places - country remains "country" for generation after generation, with little change other than effective depopulation as towns and villages have many empty houses and lots of little kids and old people.

In places like Michoacán in México, Samar Island in The Philippines and Sicily, almost everyone over the age of 16 and under the age of 60 has left, to find a job and earn a living in the nearest major city or neighbouring country.

Be careful what you wish for.
American ingenuity, left alone and unregulated, is capable of ruining anything, period.

:foreheadslap:
 

steamroller

Michael Peterson status
Dec 23, 2007
2,120
767
113
48U - Green River, WY
It’s a lot.

that said, I surf really great waves without crowds pretty regularly. If you know you know.

BOOM!....right there...i go home to surf just about once a month surf 2x a day minimum and i never surf with a crowd...if you know you know


also this spot always scarred the bejesus outt me.....i dont know how the hell sunny and johnnyBoy surfed the hell out of it...

Screenshot_20220228-011912_Brave.jpg
 
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kelly7873

Nep status
Jan 20, 2002
837
356
63
Honolulu
The bodyboarders don't have their own contest and they haven't in years. This year they're piggybacking on the Pipeline Bodysurfing Classic which runs Feb24 to Mar4.
We have been in a waiting period of a contest at Haleiwa, Sunset or Pipe every day this year except 2 holidays and will be till March 7.
Also don't forget the Red Bull Magnitude women's big wave contest that runs till March 14. It has made my favorite outer reef unsurfable.
 

Ranga

Billy Hamilton status
Dec 31, 2008
1,689
1,429
113
It’s a lot.

that said, I surf really great waves without crowds pretty regularly. If you know you know.
I mean, there are a ton of spots, and your B grade is A+++ for the rest of us. I could have a really fulfilling surf life and die happy on just the breaks from Haleiwa to Waimea.
 

bluemarlin04

Michael Peterson status
Aug 13, 2015
2,565
2,383
113
Hawaii is an amazing place to live. Certain spots like Kailua, Hanalei, Lahaina, North Shore, etc got some problems but they’re still nice spots and if you know where to go then you’re good. They’re desirable and now with the internet, advanced TELCOM, and modern infrastructure we didn’t have from the 1970s-2000s you got people leaving and coming to these spots following their buddies.

I study human migration as part of my job but mostly in poor countries. This is no different then migration that takes place all over the world where people move to nice spots their friends went. This ranges from poor African farmers needing refugee status to very wealth oligarchs buying up third homes where their friends did.

If you only paddle out at the known spots then you get what you deserve- wavestorms, b grade pros with solo shots, and rich entitled haoles.

Also with prone foiling, SUP, and now winging (still learning)- i can do literally any of these activities by myself within 5 mins of my house and do it with just my friend or alone.

came to the conclusion the surf is absolutely firing maybe only 10-30 percent of the time based on where you live in Hawaii. But it’s firing for foiling 90 percent of the time, winging is 100 percent even In glass.

if all you do is surf the same shortboard in the same garbage waves of course you’re going to get frustrated by the crowds and donkey.

i think it was Mickey Munoz which said there is no bad days just the wrong equipment.