This happened to me today for the first time. I took off on a set wave and once i began my bottom turn i was carrying so much speed that I felt out of control. My board wasn't feeling skippy or squirrely; in fact it felt totally locked in and solid but I just couldn't handle how fast I was going. To be quite honest I'm not even sure how to put this speed into perspective other than I was going so fast that I no longer wanted to be on the wave. I had the entire wave in front of me with good shape, but I was going so fast that I was nervous to continue down the line so I just rolled off my board into the face of the wave like a total loser I would give anything to have that one back and see what would have happened if I decided to stay on the board.
Again, nothing like this has ever happened to me. I've been out in big waves, and I doubt this was the biggest wave I've ever caught (though it may have been close) and every other wave after that during the same session felt totally normal speed-wise.
This wave was a complete outlier in my surfing history.
Has this happened to anyone else before? What might have caused this outrageous increase in speed?
Again, nothing like this has ever happened to me. I've been out in big waves, and I doubt this was the biggest wave I've ever caught (though it may have been close) and every other wave after that during the same session felt totally normal speed-wise.
This wave was a complete outlier in my surfing history.
Has this happened to anyone else before? What might have caused this outrageous increase in speed?
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