Ever get WAY too much speed?

Jan 14, 2019
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Had a similar crazy speed experience once, and it's like you're on a rocket, right? Couldn't wrap my head around it. My guess is maybe some freak combo of wave shape and your positioning, but who knows?
 
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Mr J

Michael Peterson status
Aug 18, 2003
2,271
1,494
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Regional Vic, Australia
I also use that 40 mm height in from the apex with my caliper........
it is 42.75 mm in the tokoro at mid point
I also noticed that the sharp rail near the fins......is not as sharp as a an HP.....

In comparison........a lost driver 2.0 (6.1 x 19.18 x 2.38)
has a height of 45.85 mm in the middle (17mm apex and 20 of tuck)
Thanks for measuring. 3mm may not seem much but it is the difference between just right and too sinky or just right and too boaty. I know because I had a blank cut with machine operater error, when turning it over to cut the other side must have aligned it wrong. I thought it was a bit thin but because I don’t build regularly finished it. Not much I can do with a cut too thin anyway without altering the outline. It was too sinky in my local sheltered beachy a wouldn’t pump up to speed on all except the steepest sections. although not too bad in the powerful open ocean, a bit unforgiving even there.

So the Tokoro pipeline board has even more sensitive rails than a HP shorty - I wasn’t expecting that! I can imagine how getting the Tokoro up to speed would be workable in pipeline juice, but lack of forgiveness would require fine rider input - I don’t know.

20mm of tuck is far too much for me on my 5’ 6” x 18 3/8” hp shorty. Would create too sluggish to react and pump I think.

I bet you could easily tell the difference between the rail heights of the Tokoro and Driver with your eyes shut and grabbing the rail like you show in the pic.
 

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,357
10,634
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33.8N - 118.4W
I just saw a friend at the beach. He was riding a Panda "Doinker." He said he kept out running the tube. That's too fast,ut not out of control.
 

Retropete

Phil Edwards status
Jan 20, 2006
6,067
4,634
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Sunny Coast Qld Australia
I just saw a friend at the beach. He was riding a Panda "Doinker." He said he kept out running the tube. That's too fast,ut not out of control.
Not trying to be a smart arse and I get what he's saying as I love boards with speed on tap but it's just a matter of stalling it, or bleeding speed right off at the base of the wave and then pulling in. Takes gumption sometimes if it's a decent sized wave.
 

jkb

Tom Curren status
Feb 22, 2005
10,187
9,373
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Central California
I just saw a friend at the beach. He was riding a Panda "Doinker." He said he kept out running the tube. That's too fast,ut not out of control.
Have you seen how fast a top 5 surfer can surf in person? Are they missing barrels because they are too fast?

Let's take Felipe for example. Have you ever seen Felipe outrun a barrel?

Ok, maybe Flippy's a bad example.

Have you ever seen JJF outrun a barrel?
 

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,357
10,634
113
33.8N - 118.4W
Have you seen how fast a top 5 surfer can surf in person? Are they missing barrels because they are too fast?

Let's take Felipe for example. Have you ever seen Felipe outrun a barrel?

Ok, maybe Flippy's a bad example.

Have you ever seen JJF outrun a barrel?
Last I checked my friend is not a top 5 surfer. He is pretty good but our waves are so short that by the time you realize you should stall, the wave's over.

Never happens in surfing…

Too many waves caught.
The other people sharing the lineup with you might have a different opinion on that one.
 

Chocki

Phil Edwards status
Feb 18, 2007
7,014
7,856
113
Planet Earth
fastest board i ever owned
I was lucky enough to pick one of these up off the rack on sale at the SB store shortly after I moved to LA. It was wicked fast.
 
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Dekerwild

OTF status
Jul 28, 2017
340
353
63
Yes, Been riding Roberts Twonzer fins for 2 years and sometimes generate way to much speed as a result. Here's a sequence of my board's back 1/3rd of my inside rail holding on while my outside rail fins barley touch the wave. Felt like I was floating on air with my toes gripping the wax just to hold on.

DSC_0657.JPGDSC_0663.JPGDSC_0667.JPG