Entire west coast about to get some action

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,267
10,465
113
33.8N - 118.4W
Best surf at Malibu I ever had was a really good sized wnw at some point in the 94/95 winter. 6 hours with no more than 10 people out at any given time. I vaguely remember seeing Ricky Schaefer, a young Colin Giles and a few others but nobody expected Malibu to even Be a blip on the radar that day.
Before the cams you could frequently get uncrowded winter days at Bu. Not any more.
 
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Chee-to

Michael Peterson status
Jan 11, 2002
2,429
977
113
I keep seeing all these social media headlines ..... Giant surf ... Historic surf .... 20'-30' ... etc etc. But when watching the video clips the best i've seen appears to be solid 6' (Hawaiian) at best. Has it been so long that everyone in SoCal has forgotten what real waves look like? The video clips from the swell that hit New Jersey look way more intense. Just sayin!
It was double to triple overhead with some spots having rogue plus sets. All the beaches were washed out except the obvious one and most reefs that work up to 8-10 feet on the face, maybe double overhead on their best days were long gone in whitewater closeouts. I saw waves breaking perfectly in places I didn't know there were reefs. The amount of power this swell had was impressive. I'd call it 6-10' Hawaiian. 20-30', even on a face size scale, is hyperbole.
 
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Duffy LaCoronilla

Duke status
Apr 27, 2016
39,263
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It was double to triple overhead with some spots having rogue plus sets. All the beaches were washed out except the obvious one and most reefs that work up to 8-10 feet on the face, maybe double overhead on their best days were long gone in whitewater closeouts. I saw waves breaking perfectly in places I didn't know there were reefs. The amount of power this swell had was impressive. I'd call it 6-10' Hawaiian. 20-30', even on a face size scale, is hyperbole.
So you’re 3 feet tall?
 

Ranga

Billy Hamilton status
Dec 31, 2008
1,691
1,436
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When the swell is coming from the right direction it can be pretty perfect for a goofy. I will never touch it on those days. My backside tube skills/balls are not up to snuff for how bowly and pitchy it can get. But most days, yeah.

Have seen Chris Ward and Damien H out there alone on really hairy winter days, fearless. A snapped leash on a those days can mean you might need a rescue if the current is moving south fast enough. Have seen it happen x 1 and heard it has happened enough times before..
LIke SW220. Anything else is chaos with brief glimpses of spectacular.
 

Tanner

Phil Edwards status
Jul 30, 2003
7,194
751
113
Point Loma
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It's not been as big as that run last January.
I kinda feel the same way, but think there were more random giant sets this time around. Even if you want to call it the same size, I think January's swell was definitely more organized.

For those who have forgotten, here are a few that I shot back then:



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John Maher

 

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,267
10,465
113
33.8N - 118.4W
I think they were screaming because they had on really expensive shoes and didn't want them to get soaked. No other explaining the fear of shin high water coming at you. Also in one of the videos they said the waves washed away the truck. I think the truck was just idling there and drove away when the water came. In this vid you see it driving away.

As far as the comparison with last January- this year, at least the days I've surfed, there have been long lulls. Last January I remember ten wave sets, just relentless beat downs. I didn't experience that the past week and only had one hold down and it wasn't even that bad. So, on the one hand I agree last year was heavier. But on the other hand last year I didn't see those outside, outside EL Porto waves before. I saw huge waves but not breaking a mile out. That was something.