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Sean Collins used to tell me about doing tow ins out there when it gets big. That's pretty neato.feels sharky, looks mushy
some righteous carnage right thereThis is just hilarious...
The Dunes
Nah, Id be on a 5'10" single fin knifing sideways air drops under the lip... leashless in a spring suit of course!I’m sure the undergunned call out boys would be shredding on their 6’2”’s
♂
Was it breaking out on Mariposa Reef outside/north of the pier? I remember some big assed waves out there during 97-98.I was visiting San Clemente this week. Grew up surfing there. This morning had the biggest waves from this particular swell event and the direction very much reminded me of 97-98 El Nino season. I haven't seen some spots break like this since then.
That being said, there were definitely bigger surfable days in 97-98.
It was, but the size was mid-range and the shape was variable. Quite a few lumps and closeouts.Was it breaking out on Mariposa Reef outside/north of the pier? I remember some big assed waves out there during 97-98.
I surfed out there a few times pre 1980. Paddled out from 204. Long paddle. It’s hard to tell what it’s like until you get out there.It was, but the size was mid-range and the shape was variable. Quite a few lumps and closeouts.
There were other spots bigger and better.
I remember watching it break from the pier and thinking damn that would be sketch.I surfed out there a few times pre 1980. Paddled out from 204. Long paddle. It’s hard to tell what it’s like until you get out there.
I’m not calling anyone out this time. I was on a 6’4 and blew it. The 7’6 in my van would have got me some waves.I’m sure the undergunned call out boys would be shredding on their 6’2”’s
♂
Was gonna hit you up for a report… glad you’re not dead… I fully sat this one out, no shame.My day went like this…
”Um, excuse me. You don’t want to stand there.”
”Um, excuse me. You’re kid is going to drown if you let him wander around on the beach.”
“Um, excuse me. This isn’t a good time for a beach walk.”
5 minutes later two soaking wet tourists come back up the stairs.
”Should have listened to me.”
Then I finally go surf. Get denied three times trying to paddle out. Get out the back on the fourth attempt. Two other guys out, one I know. They both tell me they haven’t caught a single wave. spend an hour cat and mousing the lineup. Taking sets on the head. Missing waves. Turn and go on bomb and get absolutely obliterated.
Got back out. Thought I was far enough out. So did the other two guys. We weren’t. Big set. we all bail boards. First wave put us right in the spot for the second, meaner wave to do its work. I pop up. Next to me my buddy’s board is tomb stoning and buckled. the other guy is now swimming boardless and in some distress. buddy goes in and I escort the other guy in.
Sketchy as fuck.
I‘m exhausted.