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East vs. West

ghost_of_lewis_samuels

ghost_of_lewis_samuels

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Oct 27, 2019
7,790
5,472
113
One-Off said:
OK. I take back my comment about 1 foot. One of the most magical moments I've had surfing was at 1 foot Mailbu First Point. I actually really like small winter days because you can get it with no crowd. One morning after a long flat spell the waves were knee high. The water was crystal clear. At a certain point the sun came up and the low raking angle made the cobblestones glow under water. Cruisng for 20-30 yards over glowing cobblestones was mind bending.
Click to expand...
sounds great.
 
E

elcalvo

Michael Peterson status
Mar 16, 2004
3,345
467
83
NE
One-Off said:
OK. I take back my comment about 1 foot. One of the most magical moments I've had surfing was at 1 foot Mailbu First Point. I actually really like small winter days because you can get it with no crowd. One morning after a long flat spell the waves were knee high. The water was crystal clear. At a certain point the sun came up and the low raking angle made the cobblestones glow under water. Cruisng for 20-30 yards over glowing cobblestones was mind bending.
Click to expand...
I agree 100%. I still remember the first time I somehow managed to put my old Gregg Noll into trim. Waves were barely big enough to ride but all of a sudden it was like the afterburners kicked in. Never forgot that moment. I consider it my first real ride. :waving:
 
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Mr Doof

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
25,515
8,859
113
San Francisco, CA
One-Off said:
OK. I take back my comment about 1 foot. One of the most magical moments I've had surfing was at 1 foot Mailbu First Point. I actually really like small winter days because you can get it with no crowd. One morning after a long flat spell the waves were knee high. The water was crystal clear. At a certain point the sun came up and the low raking angle made the cobblestones glow under water. Cruisng for 20-30 yards over glowing cobblestones was mind bending.
Click to expand...
Reminds me of one of the first time I surfed over a warm (and clear) water reef.
 
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One-Off

One-Off

Duke status
Jul 28, 2005
15,045
11,494
113
33.8N - 118.4W
Mr Doof said:
Reminds me of one of the first time I surfed over a warm (and clear) water reef.
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My first surf in Hawaii was at Tunnels. It was so glassy and clear that I couldn't really detect where the bottom of the wave was. Also it freaked me out on the inside because I couldn't tell how shallow it was until the water started to deform over the coral heads. Time to kick out! :drowning:

That same trip, same spot, a big outside wave came through and I remembered reading something like, "In Hawaii, if you don't put your head down and go for it on a set wave, you won't get anymore waves the rest of the session." So I put my head down and went and the wave (well overhead) closed out. I had to straighten out. When I got back to the lineup a local paddled by and said, "You got to be careful out here, man It's shallow." That became my new mantra.
 
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Subway

Subway

Administrator
Staff member
Dec 31, 2008
13,886
11,230
113
LBNY
Waikoko when the water is really clear puts on quite a show under your board. Especially when it’s overhead and low tide. I had a local say the same thing like One-off. Very well said and good intentioned, he could tell I knew what I was doing, but still cautioned about getting caught inside on a rising swell and a falling tide at that spot. Big wide reef, long painful walk if you screw up
 
Sharkbiscuit

Sharkbiscuit

Duke status
Aug 6, 2003
27,793
21,041
113
Jacksonville Beach
Ben Gravy just rode the BAGGEST JERZ EV_AR
FOOLLY NEWARKING
three weaks ago.

Now you sweet and delicious bag of skittles wanna have a rag. Save it for June, July, and August.

And yes it has been consistent down here.
 
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Subway

Subway

Administrator
Staff member
Dec 31, 2008
13,886
11,230
113
LBNY
manbearpig said:
Northeast was cold and pumping today.
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Yea the one Friday I was busier than I had been all week. Saw how fun it got mid day. Kind of depressed about it TBH. On the phone with clients all afternoon, all the stuff I planned to do got pushed later and later.
 
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M

manbearpig

Guest
Subway said:
Yea the one Friday I was busier than I had been all week. Saw how fun it got mid day. Kind of depressed about it TBH. On the phone with clients all afternoon, all the stuff I planned to do got pushed later and later.
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Definitely a classic afternoon clean up. A lot of times my favorite days. The low tide fcked with it a bit when it bottomed out but found a couple with my twin at my favorite spot locally.
 
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