East vs. West

GromsDad

Duke status
Jan 21, 2014
44,476
9,172
113
West of the Atlantic. East of the ICW.

you didn't say pipe but we know what you meant
Actual quote: There is a reason guys from NJ and NC surf well in Hawaii. 08738 looking more like a certain spot in 96712 than most erBBers would care to admit. Second slide.

http://instagr.am/p/CY5HC_AMA2o/
What part of the post do you disagree with?


PS: Your post suggested that I claimed that was my local as well. Actually that spot is an hour and a half from my local and breaks entirely differently. We drive up there because its a sand sucking top to bottom dredger which is quite a different barrel shape than you will ever find at my local.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ttboi

LifeOnMars

Michael Peterson status
Jan 14, 2020
3,164
2,103
113
Actual quote: There is a reason guys from NJ and NC surf well in Hawaii. 08738 looking more like a certain spot in 96712 than most erBBers would care to admit. Second slide.

http://instagr.am/p/CY5HC_AMA2o/
What part of the post do you disagree with?


PS: Your post suggested that I claimed that was my local as well. Actually that spot is an hour and a half from my local and breaks entirely differently. We drive up there because its a sand sucking top to bottom dredger which is quite a different barrel shape than you will ever find at my local.
That spot may have looked like pipe for 1/8 of a second while captured in a photo, and that was probably one of the better waves of the session. Surf photos lie all the time and from that clip the wave actually breaks nothing like pipe. I have no clue where you live in NJ or where that spot is, it's all the same to me. Still the wave is nothing like "that certain spot in the 96712"
 

GromsDad

Duke status
Jan 21, 2014
44,476
9,172
113
West of the Atlantic. East of the ICW.
That spot may have looked like pipe for 1/8 of a second while captured in a photo, and that was probably one of the better waves of the session. Surf photos lie all the time and from that clip the wave actually breaks nothing like pipe. I have no clue where you live in NJ or where that spot is, it's all the same to me. Still the wave is nothing like "that certain spot in the 96712"
So you didn't look at the referenced post which was a video. Thanks.
 
  • Haha
Reactions: LifeOnMars

LifeOnMars

Michael Peterson status
Jan 14, 2020
3,164
2,103
113
So you didn't look at the referenced post which was a video. Thanks.
I looked and it wasn't impressive, still don't have any clue where the spot is and don't feel the need to piece it together. But saying that clip looked anything like pipe is a delusion, something you have a clear penchant for concocting
 

surfadelphia

Nep status
Nov 15, 2010
554
465
63
The cool thing about beach breaks is they can 'look' or 'feel' like almost anywhere once. More than one wave or day if you're lucky not so much.
Comparing that wave to a french beachie might be a little more fair, generous for sure but more reasonable
 
  • Like
Reactions: LifeOnMars

EastCoastBrah

OTF status
Nov 16, 2020
151
146
43
The cool thing about beach breaks is they can 'look' or 'feel' like almost anywhere once. More than one wave or day if you're lucky not so much.
Comparing that wave to a french beachie might be a little more fair, generous for sure but more reasonable
This is right. It might be that 95% of waves closed out, but on those couple that didn't it looked like xyz great spot.

Just gotta deal with the cold, drift, paddleout, etc and hope you pick the right one.
 

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
23,086
5,181
113
San Francisco, CA
Actual quote: There is a reason guys from NJ and NC surf well in Hawaii. 08738 looking more like a certain spot in 96712 than most erBBers would care to admit. Second slide.
Friend #2 grew up near Chesapeake Bay.

When he got to SF (after living in Park City for a few years), he told me that the reason East Coasters do well in contests is:

1 You have to really want it (surfing on the EC) so you're always trying to make the best of it, so when it finally is good, you push yourself to take advantage, and contests are all about pushing yourself to the max.

2 Short period waves (east coast) jack up fast, so you work on the pop-up. A good quick take-off is essential to being great at surfing.

Not trying to say he is perfectly right about this or saying these two reasons are the only reasons. Just adding (possibly) helpful perspective.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Ttboi

Subway

Administrator
Staff member
Dec 31, 2008
11,371
6,585
113
LBNY
number 2 is spot on. When i got to Carpinteria at 15 years old, after surfing my whole childhood on short period crappy closed out beach break, catching and popping up was SO much more leisurely and easier than what i had been surfing up to that point
 
  • Like
Reactions: Boneroni

mundus

Duke status
Feb 26, 2018
26,859
9,370
113
I looked and it wasn't impressive, still don't have any clue where the spot is and don't feel the need to piece it together. But saying that clip looked anything like pipe is a delusion, something you have a clear penchant for concocting
He has directly compared his home spot to pipeline several times, yet refuses to admit it. Also calls others out for not surfing while sitting on the beach jocksniffing
 
  • Haha
Reactions: LifeOnMars

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
11,190
6,044
113
33.8N - 118.4W
you should've been there. hard to articulate here.


you're right tho - it was 1ft tall, though 500' long. I dont care, it was fun .
OK. I take back my comment about 1 foot. One of the most magical moments I've had surfing was at 1 foot Mailbu First Point. I actually really like small winter days because you can get it with no crowd. One morning after a long flat spell the waves were knee high. The water was crystal clear. At a certain point the sun came up and the low raking angle made the cobblestones glow under water. Cruisng for 20-30 yards over glowing cobblestones was mind bending.