It's a 10 year old In4mation shirtJun is a partner that owns a clothing shop here called In4mation.
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It's a 10 year old In4mation shirtJun is a partner that owns a clothing shop here called In4mation.
Yea for peer pressure. Put the T1 fins in. Waves were a little bigger than yesterday head high + so I was a little hesitant to run smaller fins.
First wave got a runner and had to drive thru sections to make the wave. No drift on the bottom turns.
Paddled for a set while I was still the only one out and I saw a fin pop up. It distracted me and I missed the wave. F*cking seal scared the crap outta me.
Got a bunch of good waves and some memorable turns. Got a medium one that stood up on the inside and did a snap that drifted the tail. One of the regulars Carter saw it. We were just talking about the boar and trying new fins. He said that must’ve felt good. Yep. Drifting the tail when you want is fun but sucks when you don’t.
Paddled into a set that stood up perfect and squared off the bottom and went straight up. When I got back out to the peak Stu said that was a good turn. I said smaller fins and that’s the most vert I surfed this boar. He said he saw a bunch of blue. The color of the fins. Stu is the one who convinced me the most to give the T1’s are session.
Got a decent barrel.
Best experience. Got a set did a top turn, drive to the inside section that stood up and did a layback snap. I kicked out by Jun Jo. Jun is a former pro and was a JPSA champ. Japan pro league. Jun said that’s a good boar. It flowed well into your turns and went where you wanted it to. Total ego stroke.
Thanks for all the suggestions to run the smaller fins. It was against everything I thought after knowing the ENs worked. Maybe I’m just getting the boar dialed, maybe it’s the fins, maybe it’s the waves. Probably a combination of all of the above.
Super happy how this boar has been going. I’m gonna save it for when the waves are better. Which means I’ll have to YOLO a gravel boar.
Yeah they do, especially if the other guy is wearing them.Good thing I didn’t cut up my jeans. I think surfing in a pair of Daisy Dukes would cause the gnarliest ball rash.
The Mark Price thread is getting personal and I posted I didn’t want to think about FW for the rest of the year so I’ll just put this here.
The reasons I ordered a boar from Daniel and from the Tokoros for that matter are basically the same. Supporting my local shaper keeps the bulk of the money spent buying a boar in my local economy. And it unintentionally helps me.
I think the blank is Marko. Not sure who the local Marko rep but that guy got a little bit from my boar.
The resin, cloth etc is from Fiberglass Hawaii. Ted and the Wilson family own that business. I worked on Ted and Sue’s house and a little project for their daughter who also works at the store. Part of my boar purchase made its way back to me.
Not sure who cuts DJ’s blanks probably Arakawa or Pyzel. I know surfers that work at both shops.
I met Daniel’s glasser Braden. Know most of the surfers that work on my Tokoro’s too. Brian Ping or Steve Eichner. Steve’s son Ryan may have cut my blank if DJ had Arakawa’s machine do it. I’ve skated with Ryan a bunch.
I didn’t get the boar sprayed but if I did Jeannie Chesser would’ve done the art. I love that lady and have known her since the 80’s. DJ’s wife does boar art and so does Yukiko, Kerry Tokoro’s wife.
The shapers. I’ve known the Tokoro’s for decades. Was invited to Wade’s wedding. I give old skateboards and hand me down clothes for Kerry’s 4 boys. My son is a little older than them.
Daniel I’m not close to him like the Tokoro’s but have known him for decades too. My first trip to Tavarua his dad went with us and shot some pics.
Even the landlords of the sugar mill where DJ’s shop is I know that family. The Watamulls. I worked on two of the son’s houses. Vic and Rajan.
Supporting my local shaper goes a lot further than just the money going to the shaper. A few bucks gets spread out through out my community.
I even know a bunch of surfers that work at HECO. Hawaiian Electric. Even the money to pay for the electric bill that made this boar went in some small way to friends I surf with.
So, that’s the reasons I’ve made it a priority to support buying locally made boars. I’m not as conscious about my other purchases but it’s been heading that way too.
Have you tried a set with v2 foils? Its nice, try rasta twin+1 or the Blackstix twin+1 if you can. Without the trailer of courseQuick update. Won some money from my FS team at the controversial pool contest. Had 5 in the quarters and both Griff and Italo so didn’t really matter who won.
With the winnings picked up a set of Futures T2 twin fins for the DJ Rick Cane twinnie. They are close to the size of the T1’s but more upright.
Surfed them yesterday and today. Not sure if it’s because I got 2 days of rest after surfing everyday for a month. Or because new fins stiffer flex. Or the template. But the T2s were money and felt fast and turns felt livelier.
Been surfing off the rail without thinking about it as much. Been adjusting my approach to tube riding. This twin is a challenge to just pop the tail and stall.
I still think I surf better and don’t fall as much on a thruster but the DJ twin has been a good time. And a more upright fin like the T2s are the best ones I’ve tried.
Have you tried a set with v2 foils? Its nice, try rasta twin+1 or the Blackstix twin+1 if you can. Without the trailer of course
Rasta’s have more area than the t2. They’re basically t1s with v foil. And i suggested “without the trailer of course”.No. The Rasta’s look too small as do the Blackstix. And even if I wanted to my boar doesn’t have a middle box cause it wouldn’t be a twin if it did.
Rasta’s have more area than the t2. They’re basically t1s with v foil. And i suggested “without the trailer of course”.
I used to see Stretch surfing all the time and we’d chat about boards waves etc. then one time I saw him at the grocery store and was like what the fook you are a small forward. I’m 6’1 and he was towering over me.You’re right.
I went to HIC to sort fins and looking at the Futures website I remember now. I put the Rasta and the T1 against each other and they are very similar in template and size. Not interested with inside foil. Rode thruster fins with that foiling and no like. The T2 is smaller in area and it’s more upright. Daniel’s website recommends an upright template, when he asked what fins I have he said the EN and T1 should work. HIC had a set of Blackstix, but they came with a trailer.
Oh and the reason I got fin fever was when I paddled in from a surf I saw my friend Dylan. He’s been riding a Rick Cane for a couple years. His newest one is carbon wrapped which took 5 months for all you YOLO fans. Dylan we call him Stretch cause he’s 6’7 is using the Alpha constructed T2’s after going thru a couple of different fins and told me he liked them best. Stretch rips, known him for years and it gave me fin YOLO.
Thanks Racer. I’m pretty happy with how the T2s have been feeling. Boar is fast and loose which isn’t how thrusters usually go. They’re either fast or loose.I used to see Stretch surfing all the time and we’d chat about boards waves etc. then one time I saw him at the grocery store and was like what the fook you are a small forward. I’m 6’1 and he was towering over me.
I have a set of EN’s that Greg Griffin reshaped for me. They are smaller and amazing. Let me know if you want to try. A true erbb moment, terroi on a GG set!
I also have a grey market set from a guy up the street, they are MR's but with future bases if you want to sample.