Yea for peer pressure. Put the T1 fins in. Waves were a little bigger than yesterday head high + so I was a little hesitant to run smaller fins.
First wave got a runner and had to drive thru sections to make the wave. No drift on the bottom turns.
Paddled for a set while I was still the only one out and I saw a fin pop up. It distracted me and I missed the wave. F*cking seal scared the crap outta me.
Got a bunch of good waves and some memorable turns. Got a medium one that stood up on the inside and did a snap that drifted the tail. One of the regulars Carter saw it. We were just talking about the boar and trying new fins. He said that must’ve felt good. Yep. Drifting the tail when you want is fun but sucks when you don’t.
Paddled into a set that stood up perfect and squared off the bottom and went straight up. When I got back out to the peak Stu said that was a good turn. I said smaller fins and that’s the most vert I surfed this boar. He said he saw a bunch of blue. The color of the fins. Stu is the one who convinced me the most to give the T1’s are session.
Got a decent barrel.
Best experience. Got a set did a top turn, drive to the inside section that stood up and did a layback snap. I kicked out by Jun Jo. Jun is a former pro and was a JPSA champ. Japan pro league. Jun said that’s a good boar. It flowed well into your turns and went where you wanted it to. Total ego stroke.
Thanks for all the suggestions to run the smaller fins. It was against everything I thought after knowing the ENs worked. Maybe I’m just getting the boar dialed, maybe it’s the fins, maybe it’s the waves. Probably a combination of all of the above.
Super happy how this boar has been going. I’m gonna save it for when the waves are better. Which means I’ll have to YOLO a gravel boar.