Get a well made pu/pe.
My Pyzel Ghost is 3 years old, been thrashed to within an inch of it's life and is still going strong.
My Pyzel Ghost is 3 years old, been thrashed to within an inch of it's life and is still going strong.
REMINDER: THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. has no obligation to monitor the Forums. However, THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. reserves the right to review any materials submitted to or posted on the Forums, and remove, delete, redact or otherwise modify such materials, in its sole discretion and for any reason whatsoever, at any time and from time to time, without notice or further obligation to you. THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. has no obligation to display or post any materials provided by you. THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. reserves the right to disclose, at any time and from time to time, any information or materials that we deem necessary or appropriate to satisfy any applicable law, regulation, contract obligation, legal or dispute process or government request. Click on the following hyperlinks to further read the applicable Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.
I've owned libtech, corevac (stringerless eps vac-bagged), aviso, black dart, C3
libtech far and away most durable of the five I've surfed. Not even close. Also, I've had 3, the main issue with 2 of them was me not clicking with the design, but only my first one feels/felt like a lightweight, flexy EPS board. The other two felt more like poly - my old one has no black stringer thing, the other two did have it.
IMHO this construction begs for something like the Mini Driver or Driver 2.0 roundtail - something steppy/semi-ish. It's by far the best suited to real waves of the EPS builds I've tried.
corevac I really like. Very light, a bit flexy. For sure resists denting more than the average rack poly, no doubt. Light-colored, but faded a bit - DON'T CARE and not a true yellow at all.
aviso I also really like, but I'm terrified of dinging it. It is very light and very responsive, more flex than poly. A buddy of mine buckled his, fixed, and still loves. They don't like heat, and they don't like pressure changes with the leash plug in, so I'd consider them a bit temperamental.
black dart, another really like. Light, flexy, feels very resistant to denting compared to average rack poly. However mine has dark grey/weave deck, and cops heat, badly.
C3 I liked this construction in terms of how the cork deck feels, it's light, flex pattern feels EPS-like etc. However I clicked with this design the least of all the constructions I tried, so less complete review-ability.
So I'd say Lib Tech is the most durable, by miles, and the least lightweight of the ones I've tried. Aviso they don't make anymore, corevac I think might be a regional Florida thing. I might roll the dice on a C4 (or maybe Cabron Warp?) over Black Dart having never owned a C4, just on basis of color reflecting heat, and I'd for sure order a "white"/light dart custom again due to heat/sunlight.
I tried it. Dent city. Didn't like the board so sold it before it was trashed. Maybe with heavier glass it wouldn't be an issue. I think mine was double 4oz. deck, 4 bottom.Haven't seen many people post about Varial. I'm interested to see if it is worth it.
I know people say they dent a lot. But, I know guys who burn through boards that now use varial and say it is worth the cost. Anyone try it?
It's EPS. I don't think I could really offer much and there isn't too much out there on the web.Could you tell me more about corevac?
What exactly is it? There is a nice corevac board up here that I keep seeing on craigslist.
It’s EPS?
is it that 6'6" in jersey?Could you tell me more about corevac?
What exactly is it? There is a nice corevac board up here that I keep seeing on craigslist.
It’s EPS?
Get a well made pu/pe.
My Pyzel Ghost is 3 years old, been thrashed to within an inch of it's life and is still going strong.
i have been. getting heavier glass jobs has helped im just kinda over the yellowing, the instant depreciation, always keeping them in a board bag, dinging them on the rocks paddling in or truck door and having to deal with it. its only a little bit more custom to go xtr or some of the alt builds vs big name p/u for me. coils even the same price. to me its worth it.Get a well made pu/pe.
My Pyzel Ghost is 3 years old, been thrashed to within an inch of it's life and is still going strong.
tech looks cool on the website. Couldn't find much else but saw this...Haven't seen many people post about Varial. I'm interested to see if it is worth it.
I know people say they dent a lot. But, I know guys who burn through boards that now use varial and say it is worth the cost. Anyone try it?
I have one, not sure if it's glassed with polyester or epoxy. Denting doesn't bother me at all, would rather denting than caving in and glass cracking around the stringer. There's a nice dampness and flex to it, cant really explain further beyond that.Haven't seen many people post about Varial. I'm interested to see if it is worth it.
I know people say they dent a lot. But, I know guys who burn through boards that now use varial and say it is worth the cost. Anyone try it?
most of these EPS/XTR builds are going to handle little dinks a bit better than PU but don't expect them to be unscathed after going full Mason Ho on them.i have been. getting heavier glass jobs has helped im just kinda over the yellowing, the instant depreciation, always keeping them in a board bag, dinging them on the rocks paddling in or truck door and having to deal with it. its only a little bit more custom to go xtr or some of the alt builds vs big name p/u for me. coils even the same price. to me its worth it.
No there is another in New England areais it that 6'6" in jersey?
Is Corevac the company from the guy that used to work at Coil and then left to start his own company?It's EPS. I don't think I could really offer much and there isn't too much out there on the web.
It's stringler-less, vacbag-glassed EPS with what sounds like a fair few different cloths and orientations of cloths as part of the glassing. Really sounds like the no stringer, more layers + less overall resin approach.
Laughably, maybe the best writeup in my brief googling was Men's Journal, and the info you could probably assume with a glance at a board. Maybe some interesting tidbits about resin curing with respect to atmospheric conditions.
There's a facebook page (I don't have facebook so not sure if it's got good details) but the Corevac composites website and Cannibal surfboards don't seem that in-depth at a glance.
A.J. Finan In A Vacuum | Men's Journal
CoreVac Surfboards: Vacuum Bagging To A New Levelwww.mensjournal.com
I was not aware of that, but could be? I am about 99.9% sure AJ Finan was shaping poly Cannibals in Brevard County before there was an erBB.Is Corevac the company from the guy that used to work at Coil and then left to start his own company?
one shop owner took a cor vac about waist high and dropped on the rail. basically a carpeted cement floor. i was more like holy sh!t.. but board was completely fine... tough as nails. i havent ridden a corevac but had a cannibal back in the day that rippedCould you tell me more about corevac?
What exactly is it? There is a nice corevac board up here that I keep seeing on craigslist.
It’s EPS?
yellowing?i have been. getting heavier glass jobs has helped im just kinda over the yellowing, the instant depreciation, always keeping them in a board bag, dinging them on the rocks paddling in or truck door and having to deal with it. its only a little bit more custom to go xtr or some of the alt builds vs big name p/u for me. coils even the same price. to me its worth it.
No. Unless i keep my new p/u boards in a board bag inside the ac cab of my truck going to/from a surf they gonna turn yellow fast if i just threw it in my truckbed. friend has an old coil he just throws in the back of his truck and its still looks white almost like new. Says the things you needto worry about with p/u boards are minor with the eps durability. If i hit a coral head or am climbing out of the water on the rocks and my board washes into them there's an instant rail crack or possible puncture on a p/u. i agree p/u is easier to repair i'm just hoping that destruction will be lessened if i went one of these closed cell/alt constructions.yellowing?
sure you're not getting pu/pe and eps/epoxy mixed up?