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Becoming an older surfer
- Thread starter pastel
- Start date
If you come here and try your entitled tactic, I can promise you will not be leaving happily.
The problem is (around here anyway) that no one really has surfing etiquette as it exists in surfier zones, and most of the guys that enforced what little of it did exist and/or were scary/nutters are gone. In the rare event there is (non-passive-aggressive) hostility in the water no one gets behind it regardless of the nature of the transgression -- aggressive and territorial behavior seems incomprehensible to those who have never been punched in the face. I don't know if true localism still exists elsewhere, but there was just so much more violence (and order) back in the late 1900s.If you come here and try your entitled tactic, I can promise you will not be leaving happily.
I don't want to hear your excuses: (edit: this joke fell flat)
Peter Ku on Instagram: "Original supboard : @katisolmu - - - #surfsect #supboard #log #loggers #wsl #gosurf #surfsomething #supboarding"
604K likes, 5,128 comments - secrete_secteAugust 16, 2023 on : "Original supboard : @katisolmu - - - #surfsect #supboard #log #loggers #wsl #gosurf #surfsomething #supboarding"
www.instagram.com
Treat it like a water polo game.
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I dunked an early twenty-something a few years back, and it scared the $hit out of him. The lad obviously wasn't used to corporal punishment.
This is the way
I’ve just lost some interest in surfing unless the waves are really really good.
On a foil- the waves last five times as long and you go twice as fast and also don’t need waves to have fun.
no hassling with a crowd, no jockeying for position, just waist high swells and rides for miles.
Im glad everyone thinks it’s lame and it’s extremely difficult to learn. It’s what surfing at one time was.
No chance of it getting filled up with wavestorms
About a month ago I was the only one out at a shitty L.A. spot that I love for some reason. Then some guy paddles out and sits directly to my right (It's a right point) and of course goes for the first wave that comes along. I should mention that there was like one rideable wave every ten minutes. Then he paddles straight band out and tries it again. I managed to glare him away (I can look really creepy if I put my mind to it
), but then one of the regulars comes out, sits directly to my left, strikes up a friendly conversation then proceeds to drop in on me twice in a row.
I just can't with this shite anymore. It's a complete waste of time to get up at 4am, paddle out before first light, and get nothing but scraps because some entitled, oblivious wankstain decides all your waves are belong to them. It's just gross.
And someone mentioned people that shouldn't be in the ocean . . . I have a neighbor who wants me to teach her to surf. I've actually taken her a few times. Then she admits to me that she's terrified of swimming in the ocean and panics if her feet can't touch the bottom! I wonder how many people like this are out there, and how many of us will die trying to save their panicky asses?
I'm just bitter because I missed surfing Friday for no good reason other than I couldn't sleep.
But seriously, fook this
My last few boards are extra thick for more floatation. At age 69 I use either my 7'10" or my 6'9" extra thick boards. I am now thinking of making my 3rd board, 7' long, 22" wide, 3.5" thick, my own airbrush artwork, 3 layers of cloth on deck and 2 layers on the bottom. I have adopted the easier 2-step (chicken wing) pop up. My daily ritual in retirement is a 2.4 mile jog around my neighborhood almost every morning, takes between 25 and 27 minutes. I skip jogging about 2 days per month. Jogging is an out-of-body experience for me. I don't jog on days when I go surfing or when I do gardening or yard work. I prefer 4 to 6 foot swells. I like to do sit ups and yoga stretching on the floor in front of the TV, but I can no longer do a full push up, so I do 3/4 push ups, and isometric exercises on the steering wheel of my car while driving. I'm also strict in my diet. We are HOW we eat.
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great rec - thanks very much, everyone should watch this. just watched the first two - great stuff, much to think about here.
also, this woman is out of her 63 y/o mind, but god bless her, if she can keep it up.
Older surfer meal-
Salmon and mushrooms cooked with olive oil, garlic, parsley, salt and pepper, with whole grain rice and a non alcoholic beer.
Salmon and mushrooms cooked with olive oil, garlic, parsley, salt and pepper, with whole grain rice and a non alcoholic beer.
okay which one of you guys been stalking my dirty truck
I'm on this one. I don't wanna trash my shoulders, so I surf max 3 hours and don't do any long paddles.
Somewhere there is a line between well conditioned and over conditioned. I’ve always had problems finding that line. I once had a shaper write “Too much ain’t enough“ on my blank next to my name. I think he was trying to tell me something?
