Becoming an older surfer

sponge

Tom Curren status
Feb 10, 2002
13,277
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Honolulu, HI, USA
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BA used to give us cripples tons of good natured crap over the years. As his MLS took hold he transitioned to kneeboarding to stay in the water. When he first paddled out on a kneeboard at my regular, we gave him so much $hit for becoming (literally) a cripple and he loved every bit of it. He was a great ambassador of stock and is missed everyday by a lot of people...
Once he became a kneelo I told him might as well get into bodyboarding. "Never!" was his response. Love that guy!

BA_knee_WS_130830_2400.jpg

Stay active @npsp !
 

PRCD

Tom Curren status
Feb 25, 2020
12,872
8,920
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Some of you guys in windy areas should try wingfoiling. Jeff Clark is supposedly doing it now. I see plenty of old guys doing it.
 
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mundus

Duke status
Feb 26, 2018
37,723
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No one is having kids, especially people who live close to the beach. The seaside slums and middle class beach towns are gone. The lineups stay moderately full due to old guys who bought in earlier, immigrants (Brazzos) and adult learners.
Feral surf kids is thing of the past. it is all about for profit Surf Camps now.
 

npsp

Miki Dora status
Dec 30, 2003
4,312
3,955
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down the hill and to the right
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Once he became a kneelo I told him might as well get into bodyboarding. "Never!" was his response. Love that guy!

View attachment 162772

Stay active @npsp !
I had to edit my post. BA had ALS not MLS.
"I'll never become a booger" was his response to that suggestion. Then he would laugh, turn on that big smile and take your wave.

You too @sponge!
 
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ElOgro

Duke status
Dec 3, 2010
32,396
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The “pop up” is an issue. Yesterday I rode the stationary bike 30 minutes, mowed grass (2,000 sq ft, 3 hours, 12,000 to go) and did 20 finger tip push-ups (winning a bet with my wife). 85 degrees, humid, no wind, hot! After the push-ups it took me a full minute to struggle back to my feet. Had I not done the rest I could have got back upright in 30 to 45 seconds. The pop up. If I want to get something off the lower cabinet shelves I have to grab something to pull myself up to standing by grabbing something and pulling myself up. If I can’t reach it I have to roll on the floor until I can. Never without my friend the sciatic nerve on my left side. Note that none of those things require any balance. Anything that requires balance I’m screwed. The water isn’t easily accessible because of steep and/or slimy river stones. Possible a few months out of the year during winter. I go with my grandkids on boogers then.

I have a problem with needing to be saved. Any wrong move and I’m helpless. My doctors have told me don’t come back if you’ve fkd yourself up again. One should never enter the ocean when there’s a possibility that they will need someone to assist them. Don’t be that guy/gal.

It was an emotional problem but I’m getting over it. Difficult when it’s booming and offshore all night and you can feel it in your bones when you get up to take a leak at 3am. I’m glad it’s something I have brought into my kid’s’ lives. They can deal with the negatives with the advantage of local knowledge and experience.
 

estreet

Miki Dora status
Feb 19, 2021
5,114
4,426
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Southern Cali
I'm 61 and can still short-bort daily without a problem. Only good for a max of about 2 hours though.

Mirroring what others have said, I think you have to stay fit and maintain flexibility to surf at an advanced age, at least for an HPSB. I guess any old out-of-shape fat guy can stand up on a longboard and make a straight line toward the beach. :p

Of course, diet is key for any aging athlete.

I've successfully mitigated the typical neck and back issues from years in the water with the McKenzie Method. I think chiropractic helps to a degree but is really designed to keep you coming back for more visit$.

I think all the paddling leads to imbalanced development in the shoulders and that, in the elderly at least, can lead to impingement. The good news that I recently discovered is that impingement is easily resolved with dead hanging.
 

freeride76

Michael Peterson status
Dec 31, 2009
3,462
4,330
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Lennox Head.
But see, that's weird. All the surf kids are in surf schools? And just for the summer. Then they turn in their softboards and go home until next summer. Nobody went to surf schools when I was a kid. That was for val/souther kooks. Summer surfers. The jetties in front of the house where I grew up used to be packed with 12-20 year old surfers. Frothing packs of groms hunting down anything resembling a wave. Gone. There are more houses, more people living on the beach, but the kids don't show up for the most part. When they do it's with mom or dad in tow. We were on our own. Things were way more Lord of the Flies.

It will be interesting to see what surfing looks like when the current crop of 50 year olds ages out. Interesting for someone who lives long enough to see it anyway. Will crowds actually decline?
Been interesting here.

For certain A-grade spots, crowds have declined (on some days) due to factors mentioned above.

B-grade spots are packed with adult kooks and the A grade spot is unattended.
 
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ElOgro

Duke status
Dec 3, 2010
32,396
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Been interesting here.

For certain A-grade spots, crowds have declined (on some days) due to factors mentioned above.

B-grade spots are packed with adult kooks and the A grade spot is unattended.
Where was that A-grade spot where you live again? Asking for Mike, Mark, and Taj’s Burro. That place is worthy.
 

freeride76

Michael Peterson status
Dec 31, 2009
3,462
4,330
113
Lennox Head.
53, about to head to G-land and still feeling capable of packing 8ft Indo barrels.

Enemies: lack of strength, lack of flexibility.

If you can't sprint paddle into a thick, vertical wave and pop-up your days of tube-riding are over.

Mindset is easy for me- I still want it, so I do what I need to do to be able to do it.

Also, no ego. If I have a shocker, I laugh it off. Head back out tomorrow.

As mentioned, stay away from surfing into fatigue. That way injury beckons, especially to shoulders.
 

Black

OTF status
Jan 1, 2015
270
438
63
UK
Damn, I've just realised I'm too old and slow to keep up with this thread. Someone please give me a simple digestible precis when all the posting is over.
 

bruhdakine

Miki Dora status
Jul 7, 2003
5,018
801
113
PNW
You have to make it to 62 and a half. How many years for you? What could go wrong in the meantime? Aloha!
13 more years to go! I'm old too! Dammit. I have things I could add this thread but I realize it's just preaching to the choir.