A pic of the spot you grew up on.....

LelandCuz

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 21, 2011
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Lahaina


It was easy to find a photo cuz a few years ago Taylor Swift bought the house right in front of the break. Most days it's a body surf/shore break spot but sometimes it breaks from the point to the right of the frame and runs down toward the beach in front of the house.
 

$kully

Duke status
Feb 27, 2009
60,293
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It was easy to find a photo cuz a few years ago Taylor Swift bought the house right in front of the break. Most days it's a body surf/shore break spot but sometimes it breaks from the point to the right of the frame and runs down toward the beach in front of the house.
I grew up spending my summers not far from there. Father bought potato fields on Ninigret Pond around 1971. Potato point. Bought two lots. One for his bachelor pad and the other for his father. Two of the first houses on the block before the area got developed. Him and his buddies who were all masons dug the foundation and laid the block for the original cottage. He met my mother before he finished and never got to use it as a bachelor pad. The area has changed a lot but man do I love it. I've been eating seafood out of Ninigret pond my entire life. Blue crab, cherrystones, oysters, you name it. Trips me out when I go to oyster bars here on the west coast and they feature ninigret pond and matunuck oysters on the menu.

Local beach was all shore pound. Did a lot of skim boarding as a kid. Surfing in the summers wasn't really in the cards unless there was a hurricane.
 
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teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,137
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eastside oahu
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North Shore from a few years back. Started going here after my crew got a drivers license.

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South Shore, Bowls. 8th grade an older friend had a van and we’d chip in 50 cents-$1each for gas and dawn patrol Bowls, eat at the Kewalos lunch wagon then surf Bellows in Waimanalo on the way home. I used to get hazed hard in those van rides, being the new kid.

I’m really from the Eastside but not going to share any spots or pics from there. Cause it’s still mostly locals and never gets good.
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
69,029
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The Bar
Drainpipes (Zuma)

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Hollywood Beach

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Spent most of my formative years (10 through mid-20s) at both spots, but especially the latter. It was like that a lot, if not better. The spot had an undercurrent of malevolence to it - sometimes it really felt that it was plotting your demise. Brutal paddle outs (a 45 second lull could be a godsend) at times, 98% out all alone with no one even in line of sight. It was a great way to learn perseverance and self-reliance. Between the two spots over the years, the number of barrels? 10s of thousands? I don't know - there were a lot, some of which were quite memorable. Also some of the times getting absolutely destroyed, those were memorable too.
 

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Phil Edwards status
Sep 17, 2012
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Spent most of my JH and HS years at your latter to Ventura Harbor, especially before I could drive and the parents would dump us somewhere along that stretch before work and pick us up after. It's likely me and my buddies were in the water with you on more than one occasion.
 
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Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
69,029
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The Bar
Spent most of my JH and HS years at your latter to Ventura Harbor, especially before I could drive and the parents would dump us somewhere along that stretch before work and pick us up after. It's likely me and my buddies were in the water with you on more than one occasion.
Very likely. When I was older (16), I was the one with the white Buick Regal. I didn't see many people there back in late 80s/early 90s. My parents had a boat across the street which we spent a lot of time on. Kind of funny in this day and age but my parents were very trusting, no helicoptering. Since was 10, would walk across during dawn patrol, spend a few hours in the water, and come back at my leisure, then grab the skate and head to Harbor Mart to play arcade games. Good times. :shaka:
 

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Phil Edwards status
Sep 17, 2012
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Very likely. When I was older (16), I was the one with the white Buick Regal. I didn't see many people there back in late 80s/early 90s. My parents had a boat across the street which we spent a lot of time on. Kind of funny in this day and age but my parents were very trusting, no helicoptering. Since was 10, would walk across during dawn patrol, spend a few hours in the water, and come back at my leisure, then grab the skate and head to Harbor Mart to play arcade games. Good times. :shaka:
Most time for me was Ventura Harbor from S jetty to the (then non existent) rivermouth, then Shores, less time at Hollywood. But the 80s/90s seemed to have more consistent/better sand down that entire stretch before Oxnard got that near shore trench and Ventura harbor stretch got more angled and the new jetty and extension sorta f'd things up (and the s jetty wedge lost). Yeah, and each of those 3 spots had a shopping center to entertain ourselves between sessions. :D
 
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Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
69,029
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The Bar
Most time for me was Ventura Harbor from S jetty to the (then non existent) rivermouth, then Shores, less time at Hollywood. But the 80s/90s seemed to have more consistent/better sand down that entire stretch before Oxnard got that near shore trench and Ventura harbor stretch got more angled and the new jetty and extension sorta f'd things up (and the s jetty wedge lost). Yeah, and each of those 3 spots had a shopping center to entertain ourselves between sessions. :D
That little stretch of Hollywood was more off the beaten track. The veil came off at least 10 years ago, unfortunately, and it's as crowded as most beachbreaks these days. It's been a while since I have surfed up there - last time was with hallucinogenic_toreador (whatever happened to him?) several years ago.

The trench. Once (if) you got past that shorepound, you could catch your breath in the reform area just beyond it. Taking off your leash, throwing you board over the top, while diving underwater all of 18 inches deep was actually a legit tactic sometimes, although it sucked when it backfired. Getting back in through that shorebreak... you had to catch the correct reform, the ones that looked like a peak with no shoulder would end up being barely makeable when they hit that sandbar and jacked up into some 3-lipped monster bending underwater. Severe beatings and currents.
 
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