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*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter b.r.
- Start date
Same experience, but happened to catch her between shifts. Got a few on the Two Hippy - wrong board for the conditions but it worked. Bar of soap would've been SO much better. Still got a number of waves, can't complain, and wifey came with and was stoked on her waves at the river mouth. All in all, better to have gone that not.
mid morning, some swell in the water but too high of a tide for my usual spots, went to a reef that can handle and got some fun waves but did more duck diving then wave catching. it happens. 5'10 kenson quad felt good when I was up and riding.
I didn’t go.
Couldn’t motivate today: Soft and sluggish this morning, then onshore this afternoon.Hopefully better mañana
Wild and disorganized post-storm session. An old friend and his dad and nephew are in town and the nephew was frothing to surf so we all went for it. Three generations all surfing together. It was pretty rad. We all got smoked by some big sets but I ended up doing pretty well and everyone got a few waves.
I have experienced things you will never know.
The bitter pill is that that app will not make you money.
Supposedly you can make a few hundred dollars a month selling your plasma. Maybe try that.
Looks like usual spring garbage this morning.
I really need to move somewhere more surf friendly between April and August.
I really need to move somewhere more surf friendly between April and August.
Monday night I lucked into some extremely rippable waves. Drove down to the spot with the fam. I was expecting it to be a sundown stroll — the wind forecast was kinda shitty — but I packed a board just in case.
Walked over to perch where you can see the waves and it was just about as good as it gets. Perfectly glassy and open walls.
Raced to get my suit on and got an hour or so of really fun surfing. Topped it off with some good cooking and some Pliny.
Walked over to perch where you can see the waves and it was just about as good as it gets. Perfectly glassy and open walls.
Raced to get my suit on and got an hour or so of really fun surfing. Topped it off with some good cooking and some Pliny.
Got an entry-level appetizer one of these Monday PM. Post-lunch-report very small groundswell hidden under a dying windswell with dying winds. Got some fun ones but would have been so much better if I didn't spend half the session nervous about the top of the rip. Saw a shark, I think the same one, three different times, and it disappeared when a pod of dolphins came through, came back, and swam off the rip down toward me when I moved. Unnerved me from sitting out the back in the catbird seat.
Did not like:
1. Broad/full profile of dorsal
2. 3-4' distance between dorsal and tail.
3. Shark returning AND moving in my direction after I moved away.
The whole thing just screamed Bull. Excellent supply of bait, terns/gulls and small Spanny Macks.
That's crazy @Sharkbiscuit . Your name doesn't help any.
Out here on the left coast, went to the Queen this morning with hopes of revisiting yesterday's conditions. Hope springs eternal. It would've been a great day to go fishing, as evidenced by all the guys beach casting on the backside.
Surf this morning resembled a below average day at El Porto, with lots of morning sickness and wind bump. Disorganized and junky, 1/2 the size of yesterday, but on the plus side hardly anyone out. Paddled out for what I could find at the river mouth. In true 000 fashion, a group of SEVEN then showed up and paddled right to where I was. 4 guys and 3 girls, all appearing to be of high school to early college age. WTF? Got pissed since there wasn't much anyway, so went up top to try to catch a few with the two other guys up there. It was worse. Came back to the starting point in disappointment and gave it another shot. 20 minutes later, having had just a few that actually "connected" if you can call it that, I went in.
Used the OB1. Not sure why, except I was curious. It sucked in these conditions. The Bar of Soap is always the board of choice.
Out here on the left coast, went to the Queen this morning with hopes of revisiting yesterday's conditions. Hope springs eternal. It would've been a great day to go fishing, as evidenced by all the guys beach casting on the backside.
Surf this morning resembled a below average day at El Porto, with lots of morning sickness and wind bump. Disorganized and junky, 1/2 the size of yesterday, but on the plus side hardly anyone out. Paddled out for what I could find at the river mouth. In true 000 fashion, a group of SEVEN then showed up and paddled right to where I was. 4 guys and 3 girls, all appearing to be of high school to early college age. WTF? Got pissed since there wasn't much anyway, so went up top to try to catch a few with the two other guys up there. It was worse. Came back to the starting point in disappointment and gave it another shot. 20 minutes later, having had just a few that actually "connected" if you can call it that, I went in.
Used the OB1. Not sure why, except I was curious. It sucked in these conditions. The Bar of Soap is always the board of choice.
And so it begins ..... '
Winds are howling though .... a little inconsistent on the sets .... tomorrow the wind is suppose to back down and the swell should have completely filled in. Have a nice day!!
Winds are howling though .... a little inconsistent on the sets .... tomorrow the wind is suppose to back down and the swell should have completely filled in. Have a nice day!!