I got to Noriega around 10am just to watch and saw a few out in the line-up, a couple people picked off some of the rights, pulled-in and got pinched, pretty gnarly. Also saw basically the whole pack out there get caught inside and cleaned up. Was crazy to see just how big it was with someone riding the wave.
I drove back up to VFWs and watched for a little, watched a couple guys get denied and only 2 other dudes outside. I had no aspirations of being a hero but figured I’d give it a shot paddling out since it was smaller—just more walled up there. Lost count of how many waves I duckdove but just kept my head down. It finally let up a little and I thought I might have a split second chance to actually make it outside. Mother ocean decided against that and next thing I knew a closed out set was about to break a little over 10 yards away from me. I ditched and swam as deep as I could, got pounded, dragged, held under, pushed deeper, pounded some more, kept reminding myself to stay calm but then thinking wtf I‘m still getting worked? Had to take a few strokes to get to the surface thinking–okay I made it through that in one piece. By the time I got ahold of my board the next wave was about to break on me, this time was thinking: (1) fuck, (2) I hope my board doesn’t break, (3) if this one works me like the first, what the fuck am I doing? Wasn’t as bad. Got back on my board and duckdove the next couple waves until it let up a little, had a split second thought of just maybe I could make it outside, but then came to my senses and headed in. Considering it just further part of my acclimation to real waves and figured the erBB crew would like to hear (and jeer) about how I got denied at the smaller part of the beach. (where’s the tomato smiley?)
Stoked to read about anyone else’s attempts today.
Looking forward to some beers tonight, gotta play host this weekend to some friends coming to town so I’ll be missing tomorrow but maybe will give Sunday afternoon a go.