Got a lil cocky and went out to the swell magnet on a low-ish tide. I know this spot is a meat grinder but I reckon I've been feeling a bit invincible lately. That worked out well.
First wave I caught, lip closed out on me in about 2 feet of water. Oh I spent a few trouble free seconds underwater, then I went to the bottom and got dragged across a cluster of live coral. Ended up with the worst collection of reef cuts I've ever had. In the grand scheme my gouged back honestly isn't that bad, but it drew enough blood to end that sh!t session and keep me out of the water for a few days.
Humble attitude restored, cockiness ejected. For now, anyways.
First wave I caught, lip closed out on me in about 2 feet of water. Oh I spent a few trouble free seconds underwater, then I went to the bottom and got dragged across a cluster of live coral. Ended up with the worst collection of reef cuts I've ever had. In the grand scheme my gouged back honestly isn't that bad, but it drew enough blood to end that sh!t session and keep me out of the water for a few days.
Humble attitude restored, cockiness ejected. For now, anyways.