Saturday - Got to shore and found it blocked by SFFD and Park Rangers. Talked with Friend #1 about going south, and he had kid volleyball tournament to go to later so he could not. So I went south to some San Mateo County spot. Had less than great time on an older 7'6". The few good waves I got were the smaller ones. The bigger waves were problematic due to me not knowing the spot well, competition from other surfers (skill and athleticism) , poor judgement, and the odd cliff bounce wavelet.
Sunday - Using south bound current, did the paddle-out from north end of beach and did the "drift and hold" with some degree of success and failure (why paddle to the peak when you can drift to it and then try to hold position). Took different 7'6" than the day before. Should have brought the 8'6" if only for the confidence inspiration. Did get an early "ice-breaker" wave but then had a tough time getting back out and then took a while to catch the second wave, which was a short ride (shoulder hopped it after the guy biffed it on the drop). Eventually drifted to the emptier large wave part of the beach and got a little haired out. Kept telling myself that since the horizon wasn't breaking, it wasn't that giant, and any fall wouldn't be that bad. Eventually set myself about 10 meters north of where this one guy was...he had caught two pretty hefty waves so I figured he can keep the pick of the litter and I can get the leftovers. Didn't work out too well for me, and after sprint paddling away from another bomb, gave up the fight and let the drift continue, and before I knew it, was coming up on the water treatment plant. Realizing getting in would only get tougher if I kept going, when a smaller set moved through, went for the 2nd wave of the set, missed, got 2nd chance on 3rd wave and at the end of that, ripped into myself for being such a wuss earlier. Got back out, went for a big one, missed that, but nabbed a follow up wave due to luck and determination. As I was bumping along through the rip, thought about kicking out and going for another, but recalled how hard I was gasping after the last sprint and how nice it is to finish on a high note, so turned towards shore. Was a long walk back giving myself plenty of time to go over what went right and wrong...should have focused on the 'right" part.
Monday - Went out at max high tide on the Scott Miller 7'6". Bit more of a fuller nose on this one and a bit more mass to it as well. Smaller waves allowed for much easier paddle out through the rip. A much better day for me, mainly because of lots of rides. Lefts maybe holding up better in the NE winds, but best ride was a right. That started with me being in the right place for a change, not having to sprint paddle to get into position or wonder if that person is going my way is great. Took only about 5 strokes to get into it. Super smooth take off really helped as well, so did minimal amount of spray in my eyes during take-off. Straight down, bottom turn, semi-stall on the wall, then speed run for the exit, and......and no punishing rest-of-the-set to my face. Energy levels seemed to drop quick (where is the muscle/energy recovery?) so did the drift and hold thing again. When I got to a certain point, came in, walked back up the beach, paddled back out, and this time just did the drift thing. (Man, I really need to start drinking the blood of healthy young Olympians.) Caught a few more, got caught by a few, and by the time I got out, was well and truly tuckered out. Came home, ate, did some yard work, took shower, ate some more on the couch with cat on the lap, suddenly it was dinner time. A good day indeed.
Energy kept dragging me down. Finally pushed off, took a big stroke and found the surface 8 feet above me, as I gasped for air. Looked up and a dredging bitch of a wave was right there. But this was just the beginning.
Came up from that one and a 15 minute set commenced. I was in the impact zone getting pounded on that bar and watching dudes get SHACKED 10 yards in front of me. After 10 minutes, I was pushed in pretty far.
So.....it doesn't happen just to me.
PS
Saturday