So how did your boards go with this last run of swell?

JTS

Legend (inyourownmind)
Sep 22, 2004
361
140
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Well Dang !

Nice conditions at Matanzas here today - no one out and very fun looking

Walking out I felt my booties and wetsuit working great - very happy

Then I looked ahead and saw a swarm of small sharks everywhere :-(

Florida --- 2 shots away from my first month back in Hawaii !
I used to live in central Florida, went up to Matanzas a few times - always saw a few sharks there . Don’t they call it shark pit or something? Never liked it :(
 

PRCD

Tom Curren status
Feb 25, 2020
12,802
8,823
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If Duffy was smart (he isn't) he would perform air squats at differing foot widths which would warm up and load the muscles of the legs and groin and solo hip escapes (which I'm positive he does) which both prepare him for the "work" while also providing the mental stimulus to access the range of motion necessary while practicing or competing.
Duffy is smart but, like you, pig-headed about certain things.

And for the record, Duffy, I think you could take Tyson.
 
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doc_flavonoid

Michael Peterson status
Dec 27, 2019
1,796
3,307
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Well, would a 7’6 buzz gun be appropriate for surf you’d need an 8’6 Padillac for?

Or should I just get a normal 7’6 mini gun?
that depends on you. i paddle a 7-7 buzzgun in surf where guys are riding everything from 8-0s to 9-6s including padillacs.

not judging, just saying.

a buzzgun has the effective rail length of a board 6 inches longer (im guessing) and i do have bigger boards which come out when i feel like thats the call

the more you surf in heavy conditions, the more comfortable youll be in heavy conditions. smaller guns are fine if you are comfortable with the drama of sitting inside. bigger guns if you want the luxury of sitting way out the back.

obviously i dont know you or the kind of surf you feel at home in, but having surfed the california coast longer than you, i can guess at some of the spots you have in mind.

you would probably be best served just sticking with a 6-8 semi gun. it is way more practical for that stretch of coast
 

Duffy LaCoronilla

Duke status
Apr 27, 2016
39,157
28,750
113
the more you surf in heavy conditions, the more comfortable youll be in heavy conditions. smaller guns are fine if you are comfortable with the drama of sitting inside. bigger guns if you want the luxury of sitting way out the back.
Been doing it every chance I get (surfing heavy condition) ever since I got the bug about 25 years ago.

obviously i dont know you or the kind of surf you feel at home in, but having surfed the california coast longer than you, i can guess at some of the spots you have in mind.
you must be really old. I started surfing (in California) in 1980.

you would probably be best served just sticking with a 6-8 semi gun. it is way more practical for that stretch of coast
[/QUOTE]

I have a 6’8.

I go up to the central coast a lot for work. It’s just that the last few times I rode the 8’6 it felt like overkill. To be fair (to myself) other people were riding bigger boards so....

When the surf got to where I actually would need it I just wasn’t feeling it, a couple times in a row, so I just said fuck it and sold the thing.
 

ReForest

Michael Peterson status
Oct 7, 2020
3,248
4,764
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I practiced Jeet Kune Do for several years as well as Aikido and we always did light stretching before class.

However, I think practicing the exercises lightly and then gradually getting more intense is a better way of warming up your muscles than stretching.
 
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PRCD

Tom Curren status
Feb 25, 2020
12,802
8,823
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I practiced Jeet Kune Do for several years as well as Aikido and we always did light stretching before class.

However, I think practicing the exercises lightly and then gradually getting more intense is a better way of warming up your muscles than stretching.
I've found that mobility drills are nowhere near as effective as just doing the movement slowly (squatting for example) and gradually increasing speed (and weight).