Watch out! Cyclist coming through

Apr 5, 2004
53
12
8
Is it normal when in high gear and you back peddle for the chain to go slack and almost feel like it wants to pop off? Doesn’t seem to happen in other gears.

from today’s ride
It's most likely an issue with your freehub. Depending on the brand it might be able to be disassembled and lubed. Other brands require a new freehub.
 

manbearpig

Duke status
May 11, 2009
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in the bathroom
It's most likely an issue with your freehub. Depending on the brand it might be able to be disassembled and lubed. Other brands require a new freehub.
This is like the third ride out with this bike. Wondering if riding near the beach got some grit in it?

edit: friend who is big into biking suggesting it’s probably just new and grease hasn’t been worked in yet
 

ghostshaper

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Jan 22, 2005
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Took the groms to skypark today for their friend's bday. First time there. Short but fun trails. Didn't think it's worth $65 for a ticket that doesn't even include a lift. Long drive and lots of people. We couldn't get on until 1:00, and it was getting dark and freezing after 3:00.
 
Apr 5, 2004
53
12
8
This is like the third ride out with this bike. Wondering if riding near the beach got some grit in it?

edit: friend who is big into biking suggesting it’s probably just new and grease hasn’t been worked in yet
Didn't realize it was new. Your friend is probably right.
 
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griffinsurfboard

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Oct 31, 2004
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Palm Coast , Florida
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This is like the third ride out with this bike. Wondering if riding near the beach got some grit in it?

edit: friend who is big into biking suggesting it’s probably just new and grease hasn’t been worked in yet
Gear selection in first shot is extreme
Freehub would do this in all gears if it was the problem
Shifting may just need adjustment , the stop and or cable tenstion
 
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plasticbertrand

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Jan 12, 2009
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Is it normal when in high gear and you back peddle for the chain to go slack and almost feel like it wants to pop off? Doesn’t seem to happen in other gears.
Nice photos!

It looks like you are crossing the chain and hence chainlinks are binding.

When you're shifting, try moving the chain as parallel as possible up and down gears.

If you are on the smallest cog in the back, you should not be on the smaller ring up front like in this photo.

Screen Shot 2020-12-13 at 5.13.39 PM.png
 

manbearpig

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May 11, 2009
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in the bathroom
Seems like I need to do some reading on shifting.

Is it mainly the smallest cog that would be an issue with?

is there a general rule of thumb, like when using one half of the cogs they should line up with the corresponding cog up front? (If that makes sense) or is there a little more forgiveness and only at the extreme ends?

I suspect this is what my friend warned me about with having two gears up front and suggested just one for simplicity.
 
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Sharkbiscuit

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Aug 6, 2003
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Seems like I need to do some reading on shifting.

Is it mainly the smallest cog that would be an issue with?

is there a general rule of thumb, like when using one half of the cogs they should line up with the corresponding cog up front? (If that makes sense) or is there a little more forgiveness and only at the extreme ends?

I suspect this is what my friend warned me about with having two gears up front and suggested just one for simplicity.
Brah you'll get it in no time. Our esteemed comrade gave it in one form, keep the chain as parallel as possible. Do not be on the small gear in the back and the smaller gear up front. It puts angle into the chain, increases torsion...

Just look down at your chain slow speed coasting in the flat. Shift your front into the easiest gear for climbing, then shift your rear into the best gear for high speed. You will see the chain is not straight, it is kind of bent because the front/rear are at opposite extremities left to right. Then upshift your front, onto the gear for speed, then downshift the rear onto the easiest climbing gear. Then look down. Same principle, but bent the other way. "Cross chaining".

The front gear, one is better for climbing, one is better for getting an assload of speed down hills. Same with the rear. One end of the gearing, it will make climbing easy, the other, it's the last one you shift into to haul ass.
Keep them both in agreement. Don't put your grovel fins in your gun, and don't put your tow board fins in your 10'6 Glider.

Example - you are going fast in the flat, in the highest gear for maximum speed and you can't upshift anymore. You coast a ways, come upon a hill, and you have to do some work, so you go to shift into an easier/lower gear. When you've downshifted a few gears in the rear, downshift the front. Don't just leave the front in the tall gear, then stand on it pedaling up the hill. You will be putting a ton of load on your gearing with your chain kind of bent, "cross-chained", not parallel.

You're climbing along, let's say you put the bike in its easiest to climb gear and you can't downshift anymore. You crest the hill and it's time for another speed run. Upshift the rear a few times, but don't start to stand on it jamming down the hill just yet. Bump the front gear into the higher gear once you're halfway up the rear gears, then hammer on it.

When you're shifting, try moving the chain as parallel as possible up and down gears.

If you are on the smallest cog in the back, you should not be on the smaller ring up front like in this photo.