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The habit of driving off my front foot was a problem on certain boards - notably, a Maurice Cole ProTow (that board would just STOP, literally, if I put too much weight on the front, had to be surfed almost entirely off the rear foot), a Roberts WD (odd because it was supposed to be a front-foot friendly board), a Lost Bean Bag, and to a lesser extent, my Lost Sabo Taj (still very hit and miss on that board).Why would you want to break that habit?
The thing most bigger guys and front foot heavy surfers struggle with is learning to shift their weight to their back foot to turn.
I'm in the same boat but wanting to learn to surf off my front foot after surfing off my back for decades.sjlist, I'm in the same camp, but I don't think I'll be able to unlearn 37 years of habit.
I think the Sabo Taj is probably a board that would blend these characteristics well for someone who tends to surf off the back foot, but wants the benefit of somewhat lower entry rocker. That's what it's supposed to do, so you would probably click with it pretty well. There are some good deals on CL if you look around. It's a sick board in the right conditions, had my best turns of the year on it. I just completely kook out on it the rest of the timeMaybe I need to try another front footed board and humble myself looking like a kook learning to surf it?
These vids are pretty interesting. Lower entry boards were specifically mentioned in the previous one. He kind of talked about the same stuff casa is talking about.Saw this recently on Surfline
Surf Your Best Episode #3: The Balanced Stance
Nick Carroll outlines why it's important to surf with both feet -- and how to get better at itwww.surfline.com
You are correct.I can ride both kinds of boards, but I find the sweet spot is noticeably smaller on the high entry/low tail rocker boards. I think you have to stay back on them, so the curved entry stays out and you use the flat part to get your glide etc.
yo @Badger_Badger you get that Bullet? How’s it go?Nice, when I was last at his San Clemente shop there were some interesting versions of the Townsend design In there. It’s really easy to go in there with one board in mind and order something completely different when you see some of the prototypes and variations he has there. And then there’s paint jobs and lams to discuss !
It’s been great to have the Insanity as a baseline that I bring in every time and then We talk about it and the follow on boards are up and down the scale based on it. When I get my Bullet it will be my fourth board from him and definitely not the last. -Come on corona check!!!
Just watched Nick's "Angling the Takeoff" episode on Surfline.
He states "most pro-level riders prefer low-entry rocker boards".
I can think of multiple pro-level riders who don't. The first that come to mind are Andy Irons, Felipe Toledo, and Joel Parkinson.
However, I do think low entry rocker boards are easier to market because many people do not have the proper technique to paddle into waves with a moderate entry rocker board in crowded or more critical situations. So the low entry rocker is a no brainer for a majority of surfers if you're trying to sell surfboards.
Californians prefer low entry rocker boards. Hawaiians and Australians get to ride good waves.Just watched Nick's "Angling the Takeoff" episode on Surfline.
He states "most pro-level riders prefer low-entry rocker boards".
I can think of multiple pro-level riders who don't. The first that come to mind are Andy Irons, Felipe Toledo, and Joel Parkinson.
However, I do think low entry rocker boards are easier to market because many people do not have the proper technique to paddle into waves with a moderate entry rocker board in crowded or more critical situations. So the low entry rocker is a no brainer for a majority of surfers if you're trying to sell surfboards.
I rode one of Brad Gerlach's boards with this bottom back in the day and for me, it's more about generating speed than initiating a turn. I didn't love the board, but that was probably due an equal part the board's super flat deck and boxy rails and not just the bottom contours.
My back foot moves more than my front foot.You are correct.
BTW, no idea what Nick Carroll is talking about with that back foot movement stuff. Personally the only time my back foot moves is up or down the tail and the only time it's being angled in an awkward manner when I'm in tube mode.
Same, in fact I don't ever move mine.My back foot moves more than my front foot.
That's not what I said.ya low entry rocker is such a crutch man look at kooks like dane reynolds
I'd rather have a moderate+ entry rocker in more critical situations in generalHowever, I do think low entry rocker boards are easier to market because many people do not have the proper technique to paddle into waves with a moderate entry rocker board in crowded or more critical situations. So the low entry rocker is a no brainer for a majority of surfers if you're trying to sell surfboards.
I don't feel like there's any point to trying to pump the Bean Bag. The Monkfish, RV, and BeanBag are the three boards I've owned since the 80s that didn't have concave, and I couldn't pump any of them to save my life. The BeanBag is the only one that didn't get sold pretty quickly, and I love that thing.The habit of driving off my front foot was a problem on certain boards - a Lost Bean Bag
Next time, ask if "most people" can switch at will in all conditions. I mean I switch between rocker style no problem if the wave face is switching. No tail/nose flip in mush, yes please in steep drops.Low entry, high tail rocker boards have so many benefits when getting in early counts. I can ride 'em no problem if all I'm doing is barrel hunting. But in waves where the focus is turning and generating speed it can feel like I'm pulling the e-brake once up and riding.
The problem with backfooted boards is getting in early enough when it REALLY counts. I'm sure if you're something close to a pro level paddler you can overcome the way a moderate entry rocker lower tail rocker board seems to push water at all the wrong times. But for an average joe like me it's incredibly frustrating.
I've been told most people can switch between either rocker style no problem but not the case for me.