for Front footed Surfers

[EntropyFletch]

I think I used to be more back footed but at some point I started riding more lower entry shortboards and kind of adjusted to that to where I feel like I'm fairly neutral/front footed or I at least know how to be. You still have to apply back foot pressure to turn but as far as where you generate speed from I feel like some boards have more of a front or back foot bias. I can still ride a higher nose/lower tail rocker board and they feel great when it comes to surfing them but most of them feel like they plow water and don't paddle or catch waves as well that it's just not worth it to me.

Agreed with all of this!

 

[Lohena]

can't say i agree with that sentiment, jordy is not front footed. he's got a close stance and tends to sit on heavy the tail through turns, very similarly to AI.

Yup, I listened to Jordy talk about his new fins on Instagram live and he said he is very backfooted, more so than others. I think he quantified it at 65%. He's a very self-aware, detailed, and articulate surfer.

 

[Waterlogged05]

Yea, I am sure Jordy can be annoying at times, but he doesn't seem to pull punches about design stuff.

 

[4daBOYZ]

random jordy thought why wouldn't pyzel shape boards for him? i think it was mentioned in stab in the dark

 

[LifeOnMars]

random jordy thought why wouldn't pyzel shape boards for him? i think it was mentioned in stab in the dark

something about him being a threat to a JJF title shot, don't know Pyzel's exact reasoning

 

[ciscojaws]

Yup, I listened to Jordy talk about his new fins on Instagram live and he said he is very backfooted, more so than others. I think he quantified it at 65%. He's a very self-aware, detailed, and articulate surfer.

Yeah I believe the Lost Driver was developed for him originally. Low tail rocker and medium nose.

 

[Badger_Badger]

Before the shut down I've been riding an Album Insanity that really ticks all the boxes on what works for me as a front footed surfer and it is in that hallowed magic board category.

I tried a few fin sets using it as thruster or quad, Matt recommended trying it as a Twin with trailer- something I didn't think would work for me, but low and behold it goes insane! (using Naked Viking Album Twin plus trailer set) It's fast, responsive, but not out of control.
(the fin cluster is moved up a touch so it gives me that extra little cheat.)

This one is custom: 5'8" x 19" x 2 5/16" - I'm 5' 11" 160

Rails are refined and there is a nice amount of foam under the chest. Since getting this I also got a 6' 1" round pin step up version made which paddles like my old 6' 6" Forget Me Not.

A step down Bullet is on the way and will make a good rehab board since I haven't been able to paddle or swim since I got injection in both shoulders about a month before the corona clampdown.

 

[ANIMA]

Before the shut down I've been riding an Album Insanity that really ticks all the boxes on what works for me as a front footed surfer and it is in that hallowed magic board category.

I tried a few fin sets using it as thruster or quad, Matt recommended trying it as a Twin with trailer- something I didn't think would work for me, but low and behold it goes insane! (using Naked Viking Album Twin plus trailer set) It's fast, responsive, but not out of control.
(the fin cluster is moved up a touch so it gives me that extra little cheat.)

This one is custom: 5'8" x 19" x 2 5/16" - I'm 5' 11" 160

Rails are refined and there is a nice amount of foam under the chest. Since getting this I also got a 6' 1" round pin step up version made which paddles like my old 6' 6" Forget Me Not.

A step down Bullet is on the way and will make a good rehab board since I haven't been able to paddle or swim since I got injection in both shoulders about a month before the corona clampdown.
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Nice outline.

 

[Aruka]

Before the shut down I've been riding an Album Insanity that really ticks all the boxes on what works for me as a front footed surfer and it is in that hallowed magic board category.

I tried a few fin sets using it as thruster or quad, Matt recommended trying it as a Twin with trailer- something I didn't think would work for me, but low and behold it goes insane! (using Naked Viking Album Twin plus trailer set) It's fast, responsive, but not out of control.
(the fin cluster is moved up a touch so it gives me that extra little cheat.)

This one is custom: 5'8" x 19" x 2 5/16" - I'm 5' 11" 160

Rails are refined and there is a nice amount of foam under the chest. Since getting this I also got a 6' 1" round pin step up version made which paddles like my old 6' 6" Forget Me Not.

A step down Bullet is on the way and will make a good rehab board since I haven't been able to paddle or swim since I got injection in both shoulders about a month before the corona clampdown.
View attachment 88855
View attachment 88856

that thing is sick Badger. I'm gonna get a shorter daily driver Album some day if the world ever returns to normal. Got a 6-6 Townsend round tail twinny on the way.

 

[Badger_Badger]

that thing is sick Badger. I'm gonna get a shorter daily driver Album some day if the world ever returns to normal. Got a 6-6 Townsend round tail twinny on the way.

Nice, when I was last at his San Clemente shop there were some interesting versions of the Townsend design In there. It’s really easy to go in there with one board in mind and order something completely different when you see some of the prototypes and variations he has there. And then there’s paint jobs and lams to discuss !

It’s been great to have the Insanity as a baseline that I bring in every time and then We talk about it and the follow on boards are up and down the scale based on it. When I get my Bullet it will be my fourth board from him and definitely not the last. -Come on corona check!!!

 

[4daBOYZ]

I also think it's a height issue. Taller guys tend to be front footed and shorter guys tend to be back footed. I think it's about your weight needing to go more forward and the heavier part of your body being higher up and converse for shorter guys (lower center of gravity). So shorter guys can be neutral footed or back footed, but taller guys have to lean further forward to get the same fulcrum leverage.

I think you're right. I'm tall and heavy and favor my front foot when pumping down the line.

spot on with the tall and heavy. exactly the issue im trying to work through. if i try to drive off the tail is feels awkward and my 225 lbs slow me down. drive off the front foot and i get the speed it's just a struggle to get to the kick and pivot hard. new board is a lot shorter than what i usually get so we will see if that helps

 

[potato-nator]

medina - who is quite talented - surfs well off the front foot.
not talking bout poo-stanced aerial landings.
watch his bob-and-weave in the tube.
he is some rider.

 

[feralseppo]

spot on with the tall and heavy. exactly the issue im trying to work through. if i try to drive off the tail is feels awkward and my 225 lbs slow me down. drive off the front foot and i get the speed it's just a struggle to get to the kick and pivot hard. new board is a lot shorter than what i usually get so we will see if that helps

You may need boards with more beef in the back. The volume under the chest might work for the little dudes but doesn't necessarily transfer for us bigger guys. I've heard bigger guys don't need as much tail rocker as well. I got rid of my Pyzel Phantom because 50% of the time I would stand up and too much pressure meaning slight on the hind hoof caused me to do a wheelie down the face spinning in circles. No such trouble with my Lost Driver. I drive more off my back foot not front. I'm 6'4". Then there are always exceptions to the rule which means its personal and go find a shaper to make you a custom.

 

[4daBOYZ]

You may need boards with more beef in the back. The volume under the chest might work for the little dudes but doesn't necessarily transfer for us bigger guys.

any examples of those kind of boards. its a catch 22 bc that volume up front really helps with paddling

 

[rts265]

What about stamps fuse?

 

[Sharkbiscuit]

any examples of those kind of boards. its a catch 22 bc that volume up front really helps with paddling

Hopefully feralseppo can chime in but I don't think he meant no/less up front volume, just that lots of the volume under chest + bladey/thin/flipped tail designs suit bigger guys better with more foam and less flip aft than you might find in a stock setting based on a 5'8" team rider's feedback. Not that you need to go less forward volume but if you order a model custom from a shaper who shapes this stuff, maybe ask about keeping some thickness and width from between the feet out through the finbox, or not flipping the tail rocker quite so much.

 

[sjlist]

I have the habit of driving off my front foot for speed, and weighting my back foot for turns. Very hard habit to break, and it really doesn't work well for for certain boards. I'm also fairly heavy for my height (5'9", 190).

I've had good results with the ...Lost Baby Buggy, Quiver Killer, CI Flyer, and most recently the PYZEL GHOST.

Man, I love the Ghost. It picks up speed when I weight my front foot, and then turns on a dime off the tail. Felt totally natural for me from the very first wave. HIghly recommend.

 

[paunch23]

Grinder X

 

[ciscojaws]

You may need boards with more beef in the back. The volume under the chest might work for the little dudes but doesn't necessarily transfer for us bigger guys. I've heard bigger guys don't need as much tail rocker as well. I got rid of my Pyzel Phantom because 50% of the time I would stand up and too much pressure meaning slight on the hind hoof caused me to do a wheelie down the face spinning in circles. No such trouble with my Lost Driver. I drive more off my back foot not front. I'm 6'4". Then there are always exceptions to the rule which means its personal and go find a shaper to make you a custom.

This is exactly what happened to me on the Lost V2 shortboard. No issues with my Lost Mini Driver.

 

[Muscles]

I have the habit of driving off my front foot for speed, and weighting my back foot for turns. Very hard habit to break, and it really doesn't work well for for certain boards. I'm also fairly heavy for my height (5'9", 190).

Why would you want to break that habit?

The thing most bigger guys and front foot heavy surfers struggle with is learning to shift their weight to their back foot to turn.